bad Opti?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
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bad Opti? ok so i was driving on the highway and i stepped hard on the gas starting at 70 and it just died on me after hitting 85 and it wouldnt start after that it would crank but it wouldnt start. So what i did is i took it to a mechanic and he said it was the rotor that broke. Anyways i replaced the cap and rotor along with the water pump, ICM, coil, new NGKs iridiums, and summit 8.5 mm wires. Now it fired right up and pulled hard but when the engine warmed up it had some major hessitation and it would go past 30 because it would sputter and it was basically undrivable but only when it was warm, it drove awesome when it was cold. So i took it to another mechanic and he said my ecm was bad and it wasnt sending the signals to the injectors so i went and bought one from a salvage yard and now it drives past 30 but it hesitates bad when i first punch it. After like 5 seconds of sputtering it finially takes off fine and it doesnt mess up as bad as before i swapped out the ecm. So i guess what im trying to ask is if it might be the whole opti instead of just the cap and rotor or if it could be something else. I already checked to make sure everything is plugged in right and no hoses are disconnected and all the fuses are fine.
Oh and its a 95 z28 btw.
Oh and its a 95 z28 btw.
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
From: T E X A S
you can replace the whole opti to rule it out completely from chandler motorsports. grand total of 89 dollars and i have a new opti in 3 days, with a 1 yr warranty to boot.
but your problem, i have no clue, sounds like ignition. try a spark tester, and does it do it under load/ no load? throwing codes?
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
try this test to rule bad parts out.
but your problem, i have no clue, sounds like ignition. try a spark tester, and does it do it under load/ no load? throwing codes?
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
try this test to rule bad parts out.
you can replace the whole opti to rule it out completely from chandler motorsports. grand total of 89 dollars and i have a new opti in 3 days, with a 1 yr warranty to boot.
but your problem, i have no clue, sounds like ignition. try a spark tester, and does it do it under load/ no load? throwing codes?
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
try this test to rule bad parts out.
but your problem, i have no clue, sounds like ignition. try a spark tester, and does it do it under load/ no load? throwing codes?
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
try this test to rule bad parts out.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
ok so i finally got it scanned for codes and it came out i have a bad IAC TPS and air temerature sensor.
well the air temperature sensor is easy but i dont know how to replace the other 2. do i just take out the 2 screws and put the new TPS in or do i have to do something else. Or how about the IAC i heard i have to take the tb off or something. how long do u guys think all this takes to replace and how?
well the air temperature sensor is easy but i dont know how to replace the other 2. do i just take out the 2 screws and put the new TPS in or do i have to do something else. Or how about the IAC i heard i have to take the tb off or something. how long do u guys think all this takes to replace and how? TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 787
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From: T E X A S
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
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ok so i replaced all three sensors and its not sluggish anymore but i do hear a clicking noise somewhere on the heads or something it sounds like a spark but i checked at night and none of the wires are grounded. it sounds only one the drivers side heads could this be the heards or something else? it doesnt idle quite as bad as it did before but it still shakes a little when its in sitting at the stoplight in drive. check engine light is still on but i guess its cuz i havent cleared the computer since i replaced the sensors. any ideas?
