LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

opti cap/rotor replacement

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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #1  
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Default opti cap/rotor replacement

I just ordered the Chandler Motorsports cap/opti kit and was wondering if a writeup existed as far as the swap and sealing the cap and lock-tite on the rotor screws...

I know its probably an easy swap but a writeup with pics would be nice



if not, what special tools do I need for the screws? can the screws be replaced with something better? where and where should I NOT put dielectric grease? what silicone should I use to seal the cap and where else should I put it?

'93 bone stock TA - runs good, just doing some routine maintenence and trying to fix a slight hesitation

TIA
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #2  
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I'm interested too so I can make recommendations to our customers You'll love the cap and rotor, we've put them up against MSD and had customers send back the MSD for $150+.
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 02:25 PM
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I thinks shoebox has a writeup. but it pretty easy: start to removen negative battery cable.

I does my under my car this way:
1.Jack and secure car on jackstand.
2. remove WP (6nuts -9/16 or 14 mm deep socket) (remeber to drain the radiator and block before doing it) i use to put a rag on the opti before remove the WP (otcourse u have to remove the hoses)
3. for better acces remove the fan assambly (2 connectors lift up and remove u may have to remove the radiator cover (3- 10mm screws))
4. remove belt (13mm socket or wrench)
5.remove Crank pulley (3 nuts 5/8 or 16 mm socket) you may have to tab the pulley from behind with a hammer if tis the firts time u remove the pulley this may take a while. You can use a screwdrive to to gently hit it use a cloth/rag to protect the pulley. or use a puller)
6. turn the Crank hub with a 5/8 socket i recommend a 1/2 rachet or powerhande (remeber to turn it clockwise. turn the hub untill you have it like an Y so you can remove the cap.
7. loosen the cap (its 4 screws i dont remeber what i used to loosen them and i now used the screw that were suplied with the MSD opti i have) (ofcourse you have to remove the sparkplugwires remeber to tag them) and remove the vacuum line(s).
8. as fas as i know the rotor only goes 1 way and i did not use silicone nor electrical grease. i just GENTLY cleaned up the optical disk with a cotton (if this gets broken u cant start the car but u can remove it it only goes 1 way in) the msd opti cam with a O-ring to seal the cap to the opti
9 the installation in reverse of the removal.

if u have some mechanical experience some of the thing are just look and do. other that that I sealed the small hole under the WP, and i got the MSD opti wich has the vacuun hose that came on the 95-97 F-body opti style. thus 2 hoses instead of 1. mine opti is still going strong (even thought my opti's o-ring broke). It took me 1.5 hours because i did it slow just to be sure i did everything good and my pulley took some time to remove becaue my puller did not match the holes.

just a fast write-up

Last edited by curacaoz28; Dec 3, 2010 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #4  
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I wouldn't have sealed the hole. You can tap and thread it and install a small drip line so if it does decide to start leaking it will be below the opti 133k and mines still going
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