uprgraded suspension question
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
uprgraded suspension question just wondering what you guys would say was worth buying that you upgraded from stock suspension? my car is a street car maybe 425hp so what would be something to start at that is worth upgrading?
The Basics:
Subframe connectors for weight transfer
panhard bar if youre lowered/wider tires to center the rear end
lower control arms and torque arm for traction
A-arms up front for added rigidity and weight reduction
K-Member for weight reduction and more elbow room in the engine bay
Sway bars, shocks, springs...
lots of different options in each category depending upon your build...
Subframe connectors for weight transfer
panhard bar if youre lowered/wider tires to center the rear end
lower control arms and torque arm for traction
A-arms up front for added rigidity and weight reduction
K-Member for weight reduction and more elbow room in the engine bay
Sway bars, shocks, springs...
lots of different options in each category depending upon your build...
on a budget heres what ya do.....to get it to hook in a straight line at least.......
First thing....
Buy some LCA relocation brackets this will correct the stock geometry issue in these cars
Next Buy a Torque Arm Relocation Bracket again to allow you to move the torque arm to adjust instant center
Next I'd say some Tubular LCA's and then some adjustable rear shocks and drag bags
and if you got room in the budget a set of subframe connectors will help once the car starts really hooking........however the rear end will probably commit suicide long before this anyway lol.....
First thing....
Buy some LCA relocation brackets this will correct the stock geometry issue in these cars
Next Buy a Torque Arm Relocation Bracket again to allow you to move the torque arm to adjust instant center
Next I'd say some Tubular LCA's and then some adjustable rear shocks and drag bags
and if you got room in the budget a set of subframe connectors will help once the car starts really hooking........however the rear end will probably commit suicide long before this anyway lol.....
The Basics:
Subframe connectors for weight transfer
panhard bar if youre lowered/wider tires to center the rear end
lower control arms and torque arm for traction
A-arms up front for added rigidity and weight reduction
K-Member for weight reduction and more elbow room in the engine bay
Sway bars, shocks, springs...
lots of different options in each category depending upon your build...
Subframe connectors for weight transfer
panhard bar if youre lowered/wider tires to center the rear end
lower control arms and torque arm for traction
A-arms up front for added rigidity and weight reduction
K-Member for weight reduction and more elbow room in the engine bay
Sway bars, shocks, springs...
lots of different options in each category depending upon your build...
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 512
Likes: 1
From: Harrison Township, Michigan
For sure buy the LCA relocation brackets and some lower control arms. Over time, the stock LCA bushings weaken and straighten out over time, hense not angling towards the ground as the are supposed to. They aren't supposed to be straight. LOL
I would also purchase some subframes, that is a must in my opinion. Also take a look at torque arms for your setup.
I would also purchase some subframes, that is a must in my opinion. Also take a look at torque arms for your setup.
Mine hasn't yet!!! Has 117k on it and its still going!!! I am trying to bide my time as long as I can (saving for a s60), so I just do off idle runs to keep from putting to much strain on "the lil guy" (10 bolt). LOL
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Shocks... Shocks, shocks, shocks.
Did I mention shocks?
Even though KYB AGX shocks are supposedly only "okay" shocks, the difference in handling was very noticeable, in fact, it may be one of the most noticeable things you can do to a F-body. The stock DeCarbons apparently aren't very good.
Koni shocks are supposedly the best, but I'm just going to go with Bilstein on my current LS1.
Did I mention shocks?
Even though KYB AGX shocks are supposedly only "okay" shocks, the difference in handling was very noticeable, in fact, it may be one of the most noticeable things you can do to a F-body. The stock DeCarbons apparently aren't very good.
Koni shocks are supposedly the best, but I'm just going to go with Bilstein on my current LS1.
There are a ton of different options for shock/spring combos that will yield different results for different setups. Something that is good for autocross or road racing usually isn't the best for drag racing and vice versa...
again, it all really boils down to what you want out of the car.
again, it all really boils down to what you want out of the car.
doesnt matter what kind of shock you put in the car.....if the geometry is wrong its basic physics the car wont bite........shocks are important but again.....theres more to be had for less money.......
i would look into the sub frame connectors cuz as you know we dont have frames so when you are at the line and you hook when you lonch it could give some flex im not saying thats going to fix your problem but it could help and the cost is like 130 to 180 just saying
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
on a budget heres what ya do.....to get it to hook in a straight line at least.......
First thing....
Buy some LCA relocation brackets this will correct the stock geometry issue in these cars
Next Buy a Torque Arm Relocation Bracket again to allow you to move the torque arm to adjust instant center
Next I'd say some Tubular LCA's and then some adjustable rear shocks and drag bags
and if you got room in the budget a set of subframe connectors will help once the car starts really hooking........however the rear end will probably commit suicide long before this anyway lol.....
First thing....
Buy some LCA relocation brackets this will correct the stock geometry issue in these cars
Next Buy a Torque Arm Relocation Bracket again to allow you to move the torque arm to adjust instant center
Next I'd say some Tubular LCA's and then some adjustable rear shocks and drag bags
and if you got room in the budget a set of subframe connectors will help once the car starts really hooking........however the rear end will probably commit suicide long before this anyway lol.....
The Basics:
Subframe connectors for weight transfer
panhard bar if youre lowered/wider tires to center the rear end
lower control arms and torque arm for traction
A-arms up front for added rigidity and weight reduction
K-Member for weight reduction and more elbow room in the engine bay
Sway bars, shocks, springs...
lots of different options in each category depending upon your build...
Subframe connectors for weight transfer
panhard bar if youre lowered/wider tires to center the rear end
lower control arms and torque arm for traction
A-arms up front for added rigidity and weight reduction
K-Member for weight reduction and more elbow room in the engine bay
Sway bars, shocks, springs...
lots of different options in each category depending upon your build...
Thanks
Matt
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
My old setup I was running Eibach Pro springs which gave a 1.3" drop front to back. My LCA's instead of being "somewhat" horizontal as they were in stock trim were now angle upward toward the rear wheels.
I imagine the ideal is to have your LCA's horizontal when you car is at full launch - as in, wheels have hooked, weight has been transferred, and your rear end basically hitting the floor (shocks & springs are as compressed as they can get). Correct me if I'm wrong here. Or do you want those LCA's to face at a downward angle towards the rear wheels?
Word - I'd like to figure this out during the winter for next year.
My old setup I was running Eibach Pro springs which gave a 1.3" drop front to back. My LCA's instead of being "somewhat" horizontal as they were in stock trim were now angle upward toward the rear wheels.
I imagine the ideal is to have your LCA's horizontal when you car is at full launch - as in, wheels have hooked, weight has been transferred, and your rear end basically hitting the floor (shocks & springs are as compressed as they can get). Correct me if I'm wrong here. Or do you want those LCA's to face at a downward angle towards the rear wheels?
My old setup I was running Eibach Pro springs which gave a 1.3" drop front to back. My LCA's instead of being "somewhat" horizontal as they were in stock trim were now angle upward toward the rear wheels.
I imagine the ideal is to have your LCA's horizontal when you car is at full launch - as in, wheels have hooked, weight has been transferred, and your rear end basically hitting the floor (shocks & springs are as compressed as they can get). Correct me if I'm wrong here. Or do you want those LCA's to face at a downward angle towards the rear wheels?
yea... LCA relocation brackets are a must. I'm so low mine are about level to the ground even in the bottom hole. I'm gonna have an extended set fabbed up, need bigger wheelstands
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
Not necessarily saying you'd want that - that's what my rear use to do when I'd hit the track (with BFG's mind you. Tires would hook and rear end would "squat" as you say. With the harder Firestone's I still have it didn't do that, but then again they don't hook either, they just spun).