To check out my block, clean it,install splayed caps (drill/line hone),
new bearings, freeze plugs
balance the rotating assembly
and assemble it with a possible half fill.

What do you guys think this should cost???? I will be supplying everything but the bearings
oh this is starting with a freshly machined 2bolt 383 clearanced block with 0 miles

 

Depends on the shop doing it bro. Its winter and prices can go up being race season. But can be just under a stack

 

You would probably get a better deal having the machine shop supply everything on the assembly. Not only that, but then they can be accountable if there is a problem. The way you are doing it if there's any sort of internal failure on the bottom end there is no chance for any sort of possible warranty work. They can easily blame the failure on the parts you supplied.

 

Well Buying all new parts when I have brand new parts isnt an option. They are all good and Im not worried about it, nor would I go after someone if something did happen. This block will be good for 800+ hp no prob. The piston rings is the only thing im not sure on. Ive got a qoute from Clayton for 600. 700 if I do a half fill. AES was 1325 and 1525 with a half fill. Not sure where the HUGE difference comes from? Both are great shops. Still waiting on a couple other qoutes.

 

Off the top of my head I would say at least $350 for the labor/machining for the 4-bolt conversion.
$200+ on balancing especially if it needs metal
Short fill means a rehone probably $10+ per hole
Cam bearings is usually about $60 add probably another $40 for freeze plugs
shortblock assembly is probably going to be another $500

That is what $1230 ballpark by my guess. Do you see anywhere there that you think my guesses are out of line??

Then you need to add the cost of whatever bearings you want them to use.

At the quoted price I would guess there was a miss communication with Clayton and that was not a full quote for all you suggested here.

 

Clayton will straight up make ur **** purr like a kitten, but growl like a doggie when its done...I say Let Corey do his magic

 

It's not just a matter of "going after someone." It's the idea that if the machine shop uses their own components there is no excuse if you encounter a problem. A piston skirt or rod breaks that you've given them it comes out of your pocket. One breaks that they ordered they should be able to cut you a deal on the rebuild. It's just that simple. Whatever machine shop you decide to go with this should be discussed before they start any work.

 

SS RRR Like I said even if a brand new rod snapped like a twig I would not hold anyone acountable for it. Anything can happen and everyone will end up in the wrong and fingers will be pointed in all directions. Sometimes actually most times its not worth it.

Im very confident in what Im doing and if some how this block that was done by a good shop is bad I have another block that is fresh. The rest is like or is new.

Caprice you are pretty right on the stuff to do, and prices seem about right at most shops but Clayton does know about all that and Im figureing they would fill it then hone it. They include a lot in their assembly.

 

Alrighty then...

 

Aes and some others in the area are more pricey. I think its mostly due to overhead....plus they specialize in higher end motors. I say take it to corey and let him rip. Not only is it more pocket friendly but he knows what's going on. I regret not using him for my last engine deal....I'll definitely be going there for my 408 build....

 

Why a fill?

 

heres what i paid when we did mine

Billet cap install----$350 because the guy broke a tool on the billet caps lol
I did my cam bearings and freeze plugs but I would assume around $75 w/parts
Balance was $300 also mike send me a PM i have a balancing suggestion for you
usually a shop charges around $300 to assemble a shortblock but I say do it yourself......its a good learning experience I can help ya out if ya need it even with pics if u want I'll prob be putting mine back together about the same time u are....

True but built correctly you shouldn't have any issues, I'd much rather spec my own parts and build my own shortblock....JMO

Exactly mike, and I got another thing for u to add block strength if you want.....I'm doing it to mine this time before i send the block to get hot tanked.....

 

Im not 100% sold on it yet but I figure Ill get the short done right the first time and throw the world at it When the bottom is all done a top end conversion will be next on the list of things to do. Like worked AFR 227s, single plane intake, DP n2o system, solid roller etc. It cant hurt and is pretty inexpensive at this point. Id hate to regret it after the fact.

Mike shoot me a PM with what your thinking for the bottom end.

 

To install 4 bolt caps i'm at $425 w/ line boring and line hone

Lets say he charges $350 to install main caps

Hes charging $250 to hone block w/ tq plate, balance crankshaft, polish crankshaft, pin fit rods, assemble pistons/rods, clean all parts and assemble an engine

12lbs of Hard Blok is $80 , so hes charging $20 to fill the block?

Don't take this as snide but maybe I should just send stuff to him? Looks like a great deal if its legit.

 

Good talking to you yesterday Fraser. Not sure how the prices came up so different and thats why Im asking here.
He gave me 300 to check it, do the caps bore/hone, 300 for assembly including fitting the pistons etc, 100 for the half fill. He had the exact same description of the job as you guys did. Thats why Im confused here.

 

Call me anytime.

$300 to "do" the caps and hone block, wow ok.

As you can see on here, most were charged $350 JUST for the main cap install alone.

 

I PMed ya and will give you a call soon as a get a chance

 

New parts came in! Pretty much piston rings are the only thing Im not decided on.

 

and my Dogs because I love them! lol

 

And there are those who'd rather establish a good relationship with a builder who can be trusted to know what parts would go with your ideas, build it while keeping you in the loop and getting involved where need be. That way if there is a problem, take it back to the builder to see what happened. That way if there were any agreements towards a guarantee then you aren't out as much money. Just sayin'...