how long does it take to heat up??
I don't understand the freeway causing sludge. I've been doing that for ages. In the summer time i just start it and sometimes dump the clutch from 3000 rpm's and leave soem black marks. If it's 80 degrees outside its not gonna hurt it.
Here's how I've ALWAYS understood it...correct me if I'm wrong or you think otherwise.
When you start the motor cold, all of the water vapor that has condensed in the crankcase needs to be purged by the PCV system. Additionally, when it's not fully warmed up, any blow-by vapor quickly condenses when it hits the cold oil, and emulsifies into the oil, creating acids and other crap. This is more of an issue in cold climates though, and those cars with higher miles are more susceptible to such buildup. Letting it idle isn't the best idea either, because it still takes far longer to get the oil to proper temps as opposed to starting it and driving conservatively for the first 5 minutes or so.
Some people care about this, some people don't. If you've got a new(er) motor it's less of an issue, especially if you regularly change your oil.
Maybe I worded my original post wrong, so sue me.
When you start the motor cold, all of the water vapor that has condensed in the crankcase needs to be purged by the PCV system. Additionally, when it's not fully warmed up, any blow-by vapor quickly condenses when it hits the cold oil, and emulsifies into the oil, creating acids and other crap. This is more of an issue in cold climates though, and those cars with higher miles are more susceptible to such buildup. Letting it idle isn't the best idea either, because it still takes far longer to get the oil to proper temps as opposed to starting it and driving conservatively for the first 5 minutes or so.
Some people care about this, some people don't. If you've got a new(er) motor it's less of an issue, especially if you regularly change your oil.
Maybe I worded my original post wrong, so sue me.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
From: Paso Robles, CA
In my humble opinion, the best way to go about warming up a motor is to start it, idle it for 30 to 60 seconds to get the oil flowing, then drive off. If you're city driving, take it easy on the throttle until at operating temp. If you have to get on a highway quickly after starting, merge conservatively, don't go WOT, and cruise at under 2,000 RPM once merged, then increase speed if desired once at operating temp.
I have no scientific knowledge to back this up, but obsessing over how to properly "warm up" an engine isn't worth the hassle. If you take it easy, and change the oil on a regular basis, you'll be fine.
I have no scientific knowledge to back this up, but obsessing over how to properly "warm up" an engine isn't worth the hassle. If you take it easy, and change the oil on a regular basis, you'll be fine.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
thats what I do, I just let it idle at least 5 mins. i you just start the car and start driving hard, the oil did not reach above (rocker ect) yet, you can just check it, open your valve cover and start the car at idle, you will see that the oil will start flowing at the rockers after like 2-3 minutes.
Here's how I've ALWAYS understood it...correct me if I'm wrong or you think otherwise.
When you start the motor cold, all of the water vapor that has condensed in the crankcase needs to be purged by the PCV system. Additionally, when it's not fully warmed up, any blow-by vapor quickly condenses when it hits the cold oil, and emulsifies into the oil, creating acids and other crap. This is more of an issue in cold climates though, and those cars with higher miles are more susceptible to such buildup. Letting it idle isn't the best idea either, because it still takes far longer to get the oil to proper temps as opposed to starting it and driving conservatively for the first 5 minutes or so.
Some people care about this, some people don't. If you've got a new(er) motor it's less of an issue, especially if you regularly change your oil.
Maybe I worded my original post wrong, so sue me.
When you start the motor cold, all of the water vapor that has condensed in the crankcase needs to be purged by the PCV system. Additionally, when it's not fully warmed up, any blow-by vapor quickly condenses when it hits the cold oil, and emulsifies into the oil, creating acids and other crap. This is more of an issue in cold climates though, and those cars with higher miles are more susceptible to such buildup. Letting it idle isn't the best idea either, because it still takes far longer to get the oil to proper temps as opposed to starting it and driving conservatively for the first 5 minutes or so.
Some people care about this, some people don't. If you've got a new(er) motor it's less of an issue, especially if you regularly change your oil.
Maybe I worded my original post wrong, so sue me.
And in regards to the thread coolant up to temp doesn't = oil and internals that are up to temp. My coolant is at 160+ in 1-2 minutes but the oil still takes 10-15 to get up to temp.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
I wonder if the oil cooler is causing the long warm up times. My two 5.3's and gen 1 small blocks don't seem to take as long as my lt1 does. I've always heard the oil coolers are useless but...
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Here's how I've ALWAYS understood it...correct me if I'm wrong or you think otherwise.
When you start the motor cold, all of the water vapor that has condensed in the crankcase needs to be purged by the PCV system. Additionally, when it's not fully warmed up, any blow-by vapor quickly condenses when it hits the cold oil, and emulsifies into the oil, creating acids and other crap. This is more of an issue in cold climates though, and those cars with higher miles are more susceptible to such buildup. Letting it idle isn't the best idea either, because it still takes far longer to get the oil to proper temps as opposed to starting it and driving conservatively for the first 5 minutes or so.
When you start the motor cold, all of the water vapor that has condensed in the crankcase needs to be purged by the PCV system. Additionally, when it's not fully warmed up, any blow-by vapor quickly condenses when it hits the cold oil, and emulsifies into the oil, creating acids and other crap. This is more of an issue in cold climates though, and those cars with higher miles are more susceptible to such buildup. Letting it idle isn't the best idea either, because it still takes far longer to get the oil to proper temps as opposed to starting it and driving conservatively for the first 5 minutes or so.
-Hey I'm totally open to people giving me ideas on how I could be ruining my cars and not even know it. Hell when I first got my '97Z I used to run the heater on 100% of the time because it kept the car from ever going above 180* and I thought that was a GOOD thing...
In my humble opinion, the best way to go about warming up a motor is to start it, idle it for 30 to 60 seconds to get the oil flowing, then drive off. If you're city driving, take it easy on the throttle until at operating temp. If you have to get on a highway quickly after starting, merge conservatively, don't go WOT, and cruise at under 2,000 RPM once merged, then increase speed if desired once at operating temp.
I have no scientific knowledge to back this up, but obsessing over how to properly "warm up" an engine isn't worth the hassle. If you take it easy, and change the oil on a regular basis, you'll be fine.
I have no scientific knowledge to back this up, but obsessing over how to properly "warm up" an engine isn't worth the hassle. If you take it easy, and change the oil on a regular basis, you'll be fine.
