Upgrading this weekend finally...
going with HPS brake pads in all 4 corners.
Anything I shouldnt overlook while doing so?
Im replacing all the lower control arm bushings with poly from ES also.

Can anyone recommend a method for making sure these used calipers are completely free moving in case they happen to be stiff....I've never attempted to complete disassemble a caliper is why I ask. But I do want to make sure their not binding if they've sat around a long time.

Also getting the rotors resurfaced anyone know the name of the newer machines they use that leave marks sorta like in a star rotation? so I can ask for it at a shop Im hoping to find.

Do u guys replace your front end wheel bearings when doing this?
I havent looked into costs but im thinking about it becuz I dont know when ill be back in there next.
Any advice for making the job easier is always helpful.

 

To be honest I would ditch the ES Polly. I did the exact same thing you are about to with the LS brakes and Polly bushings and let me tell you.....I wouldn't waste the time and effort doing them again. I would wait and just use new rubber bushings. In fact I am actually thinking about ditching the pollies and putting the stock style rubbers back in until I replace the control arms. I absolutely hate them. You will feel everything and going over those warning strips they put on the road is like driving through a mine field. That’s my take on it. do what you please.

 

Simply pull the calipers apart and grease the slides.

 

Your talking about the pins it rides on I can do that and thanks.

I've seen some calipers where they seem kind of binding at the actual piston's bores......anyone know if thos can be opened if they are empty from fluid....just by pulling them out????. I've never tried.

Normally on other cars I press them or bang them out and get them to unstick and re-use just fine...but this being the baby...I'd prefer to get in there and clean out the bind/ ridge line accumulating. But not sure if thats the way to go. I definitely don't want to damage...but want to make sure the piston has it's full travel without sticky zone.

 

Look at a diagram of them from gm or where ever, The piston and seal is all one unit if I remember right and yes you can take the piston out and check it. I looked into get a replacement seal for one of mine and the guy at GM said the piston and seal are one I think. This was years ago so I may be wrong but I am fairley sure it all comes out together.

 

Not good....if that's the case then if you accidently rip the seal u botched the whole caliper.


Anyone know the name of the good rotor resurfacing machine?
I dont want the old old school one that freaking resurfaces in one continous line scribed on the rotor until it hits the center.

It's amazing how many ppl chime in to dum azz threads and when you need one mm thread of useful info.....mum is the word. It almost defeats the purpose of what forums are supposed to be for. This has been posted since last night...I should have a multitude/wealth of info. But thnks for helping.

Anyone know if our front bearings need to be pressed in? or if they easily drop right out?

 

I don't know the name of the Machine you are talking about but as for the wheel bearings they are fully sealed and you actually replace the whole hub. It is bolted in with 4 bolts on the back and you just unbolt it and replace the entire hub with the ABS sensor. They are all the same if I remeber right from 93 or 94 to 02.

 

Oh yea I ripped my dust boot on the caliper and yes you can buy just one piston from GM but it is about 20+ bucks per piston + tax. I just got a remaned calliper from advanced since I needed both and back then they were only 45 bucks. It took them 4 tries to get the correct calliper but they fianally got it. They kept sending me the right box and part number but the wrong calliper in the box. They are side specific.

 

If you're really worried about the caliper being frozen just go to Napa and get a loaded replacement(about $120 for both IIRC). Comes with the abutment bracket and caliper as well as redone slides, and a brand new bleeder that is sure to not be frozen. New rotors are probably just as cheap as having them resurfaced IMO. Aside from that, if you want to swap your front hubs, it really is just unbolting the 4 bolts on the back and knocking the old one out....literally took all of 5 mins a side to do mine ('93 with 98K miles, they were original and still are).

If you really want to pull a fast one on them, order up a set of C5 calipers and just put your LS caliper in the box for the core. Chances that they'll realize they aren't ribbed all the way are slim to none...lol. But if may cost you a bit more to do it that way.

 

Thanks all.

What do u guys think about fancier rotors?
I have the hawk pads. And was considering maybe holding off on installing them until later and buy new rotors for all 4 corners.

But if by and large rotors are rotors I will just install the pads and be done with.
I know my rear rotors are factory.
And the fronts will be factory resurfaced.

U guys think rotor brand and quality make a night and day difference?

 

Usually I wouldn't spend a bunch on rotors, you can check summit racing for good prices and rotor options

 

Get ahold of Brakemotive here on the forums. I got all 4 slotted rotors (LS front and LT rears) with ceramic pads for under $200 shipped to my door. Couldn't beat the price and if I didn't have to run and get new calipers I would have been done in under 2 hrs.

 

I'm doing an ls1 brake swap this week too. Good luck on yours! I'd recommend stock rotors or brembo blanks. I'm just using the stockers that came with my swap. My cross-drilled rotors are warped so i'm a fan of regular blank rotors now...

 

I was surprised to see that the rotors that Brakemotive sent are of great quality. To be honest I thought they would be sub-par due to pricing...BUT...the Rotors are made by PowerStop. Pads have never worried me much as I don't road race the car and rarely get to the drag strip. Put a bunch of miles on them though and even had a few triple digit stops without issue. No complaints here!