LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Got my Formula up and running!!

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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:10 AM
  #1  
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Default Got my Formula up and running!!

Well after a few months of work I finally got my car back together!
Things I did:
!EGR
!AIR
!Oil Cooler
Dynatach Ceramic LT's
Custom Y-Pipe (yet to be made, Open header FTW!)
SLP LM1 ( yet to be installed)
Heated O2 Sensors
Intake, TB, Timing Cover, Injector seals
New Water Pump
New GM Timing Set
All new hoses including the $160 GM Heater Hose ***'y
Detailed the engine bay.

Pulled her out of the garage for the first time in months. Felt great to turn the key for the first time and hear it roar to life. I was stressing so bad that I had put everything back together correctly like the Opti, timing gears, etc. But everything went together flawlessly including the headers. Now no more leaks or anything! Runs just as it should.
Heres a few shots of the engine bay after detailing and a couple driveby vids.







http://www.youtube.com/user/stewstan.../0/2-LiRMDaP0w
http://www.youtube.com/user/stewstan.../1/Wy0DrdkTXIc
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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Nice work... looking good. Love the color, jealous of the hood & lid.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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Thanks! I appreciate it! took a lot of hard work especially cause I did it all myself. That engine bay was filthy.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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nice, I wanna do the !oil cooler eventually too, was it pretty easy and did you need to buy a new piece so the oil filter could attach?
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TheTransporter69
nice, I wanna do the !oil cooler eventually too, was it pretty easy and did you need to buy a new piece so the oil filter could attach?
It's very easy to do, heres a lil' write-up for ya.
First drain the oil and I also drained the radiator so it's not such a mess.
Remove the cooler hoses that run to the water pump and and the bottom of the radiator. Remove your oil filter and there is a big bolt in the center of the cooler housing(I believe it's an 1-1/4" size?) luckily I have a large socket set for this or a large crescent wrench works also. Unbolt the large bolt and the cooler block will come off. You can also disconnect the lines from the cooler if it makes it easier for you. They come off with one 9/16"(?) bolt that's located right between the lines (similar to the A/C lines) and also have a clamp bolted to the very front of the oil pan on the drivers side that has to be removed. Once you have those unbolted, slide the lines out of the way and get rid of those worthless things along with the cooler block. Now that those are out of the way, you will see the oil filter adapter that is bolted to the block with
(2) 13MM bolts. You will reuse this adapter (same adapter used on all SBC's).Unbolt the adapter from the motor and make sure you recognize the way it is oriented on the motor so that you put it on the correct way again. The only modification you have to make is to the bolts you just removed. You will see that they have a little "****" deals on the end of them. Get a grinder or a cutoff wheel and cut that "****" off so that it lookn like a regular bolt. Once you've finished this go ahead and bolt up the adapter to the block again. Now that you don't have that block there anymore, you can run a taller oil filter. Any standard SBC/BBC 6.2/6.5 Diesel oil filter will work and I would recomend it personally just for that added oil capacity. (I also noticed an increase in oil pressure). The last thing you have to do now is get a by-pass hose from the radiator to the water pump. You can use any hose for this or get the GM by-pass hose like I did so that its a little more "factory" like. I can get the part # if you'd like. Once you do that just top off your fluids and haul ***!!!


Hope that helps!!
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