LT1 Double Roller Timing Chain Clearancing Question
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I bought a used 383 stroker with a fully forged bottom end. All in all a nice build. Upon tearing it down the LT4 extreme timing set that had been installed, not too long ago, had more slack than it should have. The block was align bored and a shorter chain was not installed causing the unwanted play. Cutting to the chase... I called Cloyes to get a part # for a Double Roller since I will be eliminating the cam driven WP and going with an EWP. I went with a .005 shorter Cloyes Hex-A-Just Double Roller set-up (9-3145A-5) which their tech guy had recommended. I read about having to slightly clearance the timing cover. My front cover clears the Double Roller chain fine without the reluctor ring installed...
The problem I am having is that the reluctor ring hits the timing chain. Can this be remedied by machining a spacer to go between the reluctor and the crank sprocket? The factory crank sprocket has a protruding lip built in to keep the reluctor from hitting the chain. This would then push the reluctor out closer to the timing cover, which may then require clearancing? Help me out guys. Am I on the right track?
The problem I am having is that the reluctor ring hits the timing chain. Can this be remedied by machining a spacer to go between the reluctor and the crank sprocket? The factory crank sprocket has a protruding lip built in to keep the reluctor from hitting the chain. This would then push the reluctor out closer to the timing cover, which may then require clearancing? Help me out guys. Am I on the right track?
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The reluctor ring will not work, do not install it. Have the crank sensor tuned out of the pcm; there is no use for it other than detect misfires it has nothing to do with the way the motor runs.
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Thank you sir! I was just reading that very same thing through the search feature, just took a lot of digging. I will have to measure the thickness of the stock crank sprocket/reluctor ring vs. my new double roller crank sprocket to see if adding a thin spacer/washer is necessary. Any input on this?
BTW: Who would you suggest to do a full PCM tune and dyno-tune? I am in NW Ohio. I will be running a stand-alone harness on my 79 Cutlass. Needs tuned for 60psi injectors, CPS turned off, etc...
BTW: Who would you suggest to do a full PCM tune and dyno-tune? I am in NW Ohio. I will be running a stand-alone harness on my 79 Cutlass. Needs tuned for 60psi injectors, CPS turned off, etc...
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I know when I was using the cloyes double chain I did not add a thin spacer and everything worked out fine; I did do a little grinding on the cover just for extra insurance. I would measure it, but I think you will be good with no spacer. You could put some grease on the chain, bolt the cover on with a couple bolts and turn the motor over, take the cover off and you will see if it is coming close to rubbing. As for a tune http://pcmforless.com/ is good for mail order, but with your set up I would go for a dyno tune; I am not too sure about many shops in OH, but I am sure someone on this site is. I think Bryan of pcmforless is in Stow, OH http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?...d=62&Itemid=40
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I don't mind driving a decent distance to get it dialed in correctly on a dyno. I know the PCMforless guy has dyno events occasionally to dial in his mail order tunes more precisely but mine may require more attention than that. I may start a new thread on this but the good LT1 dyno tuning shops are not as abundant as the LSx shops. Speed Inc, Lingenfelter, and Exotic Performance Plus come to mind as candidates.
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Thank you sir! I was just reading that very same thing through the search feature, just took a lot of digging. I will have to measure the thickness of the stock crank sprocket/reluctor ring vs. my new double roller crank sprocket to see if adding a thin spacer/washer is necessary. Any input on this?