Clicking starter after battery relocation
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 841
Likes: 9
From: Holden, MO (KC)
Clicking starter after battery relocation Two years ago I moved my battery to the back. Ever since then I get the usual intermittent clicking when I try to start the car, after a few attempts the starter will get enough power and start the car. The symptoms are identical to a low battery. I have checked and replaced the battery and then rechecked it over again to verify this isn't the case. All of my connections are crimped and then soldered. The voltage at the starter is the same as at the battery whether it's cranking or not. I have numerous grounds on the block, heads, and from the starter itself to the frame. The battery ground is attached to a stud welded to the rear down bar.
I was searching the drag racing tech section and a guy there found the solution to this problem but after PMing him it only fixes LS cars, see post 27 on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-clicks-2.html
I wonder if our cars have the same issue of the relay having some issue with the relocated battery, this would obviously cause my issue.
In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.
*EDIT* battery cables are 2 gauge
I was searching the drag racing tech section and a guy there found the solution to this problem but after PMing him it only fixes LS cars, see post 27 on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-clicks-2.html
I wonder if our cars have the same issue of the relay having some issue with the relocated battery, this would obviously cause my issue.
In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.
*EDIT* battery cables are 2 gauge
Last edited by 96LT1355Z28; Apr 22, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.
I had to do that with my 95 Car when I did the LS Swap cause someone at one point fucked off the N/S Wiring.
My question is what size cables are you using for this?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 841
Likes: 9
From: Holden, MO (KC)
Whatever size the factory wiring is. The one from the switch and the one that attaches to the solenoid are the same size and much heaver than most of the other wires inside the car.
I'm also considering and leaning towards splicing in a second relay between the theft deterrent one and the solenoid. A member on another site said he only had 9v instead of 12v triggering the solenoid and this fixed his problem.
I'm also considering and leaning towards splicing in a second relay between the theft deterrent one and the solenoid. A member on another site said he only had 9v instead of 12v triggering the solenoid and this fixed his problem.
2ga and 1 ga will work fine. You might have already found this, but it seemed to fix a lot of peoples problems.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14790542-post51.html
Austin
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14790542-post51.html
Austin
Two years ago I moved my battery to the back. Ever since then I get the usual intermittent clicking when I try to start the car, after a few attempts the starter will get enough power and start the car. The symptoms are identical to a low battery. I have checked and replaced the battery and then rechecked it over again to verify this isn't the case. All of my connections are crimped and then soldered. The voltage at the starter is the same as at the battery whether it's cranking or not. I have numerous grounds on the block, heads, and from the starter itself to the frame. The battery ground is attached to a stud welded to the rear down bar.
I was searching the drag racing tech section and a guy there found the solution to this problem but after PMing him it only fixes LS cars, see post 27 on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-clicks-2.html
I wonder if our cars have the same issue of the relay having some issue with the relocated battery, this would obviously cause my issue.
In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.
I was searching the drag racing tech section and a guy there found the solution to this problem but after PMing him it only fixes LS cars, see post 27 on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-clicks-2.html
I wonder if our cars have the same issue of the relay having some issue with the relocated battery, this would obviously cause my issue.
In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.
If you have power down at the starter soleniod it sounds like you may just have a starter issue.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 841
Likes: 9
From: Holden, MO (KC)
Sorry for the confusion, I thought you were referring to the wire size on the theft deterrent relay. My battery + and - cables are 2 gauge.
355z28, that's the fix I found in the drag racing section but it doesn't work on LT cars.
quick95lt1, I'm kinda confused in your description, can you try to elaborate?
A response on ltxtech suggested using the stock signal wire on the solenoid now to trigger a relay that could provide a full 12v to the solenoid. He has done this without any issues for the last 3 years.
355z28, that's the fix I found in the drag racing section but it doesn't work on LT cars.
quick95lt1, I'm kinda confused in your description, can you try to elaborate?
A response on ltxtech suggested using the stock signal wire on the solenoid now to trigger a relay that could provide a full 12v to the solenoid. He has done this without any issues for the last 3 years.
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I'd like to find the fix to this problem too, I relocated mine to the spare tire well and I wired it as shown in the wiring diagram in reply #36 in this post:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-thread-2.html
My car starts, but it is hit and miss. I have a brand new autozone battery. Some times it will start right up other times I get the clicking.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-thread-2.html
My car starts, but it is hit and miss. I have a brand new autozone battery. Some times it will start right up other times I get the clicking.
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Is this a drag race car? Is the "always" hot wire to the alternator legal per NHRA rules?
Had a 460 powered car, had all kinds of starter issues with it. Bought a length of welding wire, about 0 gauge, made up a new cable switch to starter, and used the original cable for ground. Grounded it to the rear of the car, the transmission, and right to one of the starter bolts. I made my own lugs out of 3/4 inch copper tubing, did not cut the cable, just cleaned off some of the insulation and soldered on the lug.
Fixed it forever.
One of the lessons I learned through this ordeal is, a regular iron vane meter is so affected by the large magnetic fields around starter circuit they are useless.
Al
Had a 460 powered car, had all kinds of starter issues with it. Bought a length of welding wire, about 0 gauge, made up a new cable switch to starter, and used the original cable for ground. Grounded it to the rear of the car, the transmission, and right to one of the starter bolts. I made my own lugs out of 3/4 inch copper tubing, did not cut the cable, just cleaned off some of the insulation and soldered on the lug.
Fixed it forever.
One of the lessons I learned through this ordeal is, a regular iron vane meter is so affected by the large magnetic fields around starter circuit they are useless.
Al
