Loose the OPTISPARK forever
#21
good luck to you as well Big All, I hope that they don't surprise me like that. and I feel for ya brother. crap It may be winter before mine is running
#24
Nice, I have been looking for some different options besides the 24x kit.
What is the RPM limit if there is one on this setup? What runs the injectors? The crank sensor or the dizzy? Also does anyone have this setup on an f-body? How much room is there for the dizzy?
Now I'm searching for a 411 computer
What is the RPM limit if there is one on this setup? What runs the injectors? The crank sensor or the dizzy? Also does anyone have this setup on an f-body? How much room is there for the dizzy?
Now I'm searching for a 411 computer
#25
Nice, I have been looking for some different options besides the 24x kit.
What is the RPM limit if there is one on this setup? What runs the injectors? The crank sensor or the dizzy? Also does anyone have this setup on an f-body? How much room is there for the dizzy?
Now I'm searching for a 411 computer
What is the RPM limit if there is one on this setup? What runs the injectors? The crank sensor or the dizzy? Also does anyone have this setup on an f-body? How much room is there for the dizzy?
Now I'm searching for a 411 computer
I will have less than$500 in this setup.
I had the limiter set at 6k, the 411 you can set it any where you wish as far as I know??? I am not sure what runs the Injectors, I believe it is a total package type system????
as far as Dizzy? I am not sure, But I Have an idea to solve that problem, If you are game? I can shorten distributor for you. I originally wanted to use a distributor out of a TBI truck. (The Small cap with divorced coil) Then instal the 2X pulse hub inside it. You cover actual cost, My labor will be free, since it is a prototype and I can get you in contact with a fellow
that has '411s, I believe his price was $150 with a basic program, connectors, and possibly pin outs for Vortec to 411 conversion. he may have the F body to 411 pin outs as well?????
the Biggest difference between my setup and the 24X, besides cost is the resolution, with more counts the higher resolution, but as I have stated you will only notice it in an all out 1/4 mile drag rail.
Last edited by Tinbender59; 04-26-2011 at 09:23 AM.
#26
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Only thing thats going to cause alot of issues for us lt1 fbody guys is the fact that you have to drop the motor down to install the distributer in the engine. Other then that everything looks really nice and throught out. I hope you can get everything finalized im looking forward to seeing the finished product and running! I eventually want to burn the opti and run something like this or a ls1 pcm swap down the road.
#28
#29
OK A question was just presented to me and got my mind to spinning A new variation. You F body guys and gals can go with coil packs like the 24X, use their cam sensor, at least until I can create a cheaper option and use the 411 ECU then you can use EFI Live or whatever you have. You also could use the distributor system that I am using only put a cover over the Distributor instead of a regular Dist cap and then use the coil packs
#30
P.S. I have been in contact with a gentleman about building a sensor similar to the one in the Vortec Dist but put in in place of the opti. we have it mostly figured out except, how to adjust timing. then this system would be obsolete
#31
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OK A question was just presented to me and got my mind to spinning A new variation. You F body guys and gals can go with coil packs like the 24X, use their cam sensor, at least until I can create a cheaper option and use the 411 ECU then you can use EFI Live or whatever you have. You also could use the distributor system that I am using only put a cover over the Distributor instead of a regular Dist cap and then use the coil packs
#32
I am not doing a 24X system,, mine is a Vortec based system, and I just found out that you can purchase EFI Connections Distributor, (already shortened) separately, here http://www.eficonnection.com/24x/24x_Hardware.htm
P.S. it is in the truck http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...n/photostream/
P.S. it is in the truck http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...n/photostream/
#33
I am not doing a 24X system,, mine is a Vortec based system, and I just found out that you can purchase EFI Connections Distributor, (already shortened) separately, here http://www.eficonnection.com/24x/24x_Hardware.htm
P.S. it is in the truck http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...n/photostream/
P.S. it is in the truck http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...n/photostream/
#34
one of the "F" body boys are worried about the height of the stock distributor, and that is cool, I am working on the write up for a web page, or such, just need to find a good place to put it. any ideas????
#35
Vortec distributor install part 1
LT1 Ignition Conversion
The purpose of my researching and building this system is largely due to the reliability issues and subsequent cost of the OPTISpark system that the LT1 is plagued with. I wanted a reliable, stable, economical, and trustworthy Ignition system in my 4X4 truck. And since I was installing an LT1 in it, I had some research to do.
Items that you will need:
Good Vortec Distributor
411 ECU
1996-1997 timing chain cover with provisions for CMP sensor.
1996-1997, and 5.7 Vortec 4X reluctor ring
1996-1997, or have 1/8 inch machined off of your non 1996 -1997
harmonic balancer to crank mount
The 4X reluctor will throw non reluctor units out of alignment
Intake gaskets and timing cover gaskets and seals
1. Contact the machine shop to set up exchange or expedited return. Ask for Aaron
2. Pull the intake, strip all fittings, brackets, sensors, and throttle body.
send in your intake
the mod failed, had to go to a TPI "for Now"
a. Remove the oil pump drive from back of block.
b. Remove the gear from the oil pump drive save it for the distributor
3. Remove water pump, and all necessary items to gain access to the timing chain cover.
4. Remove the harmonic balancer, and adaptor Trash the optispark
a. either purchase a 1996-1997 adaptor or machine yours 1/8 shorter off of the back
5. Remove timing chain cover,
a. after you have a 1996-1997 cover, knock out the middle seal, put silicone bead around the mating surface, install “Dorman” 555-112 frost plug, be sure to put the dome out, drive it into place, works best if you support the back of the cover. Wipe away excess silicone.
b. Picture here http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...in/photostream
c. Replace chain if needed!
6. Install the 4X reluctor,
7. Reinstall the timing chain cover
8. Install the CMP sensor
9. Install the shorter adaptor and balancer.
10. reinstall the water pump and all other stuff removed earlier
11. After your modded intake comes in reinstall it and all brackets sensors….
12. switch the gears on the distributor install the one from the oil pump drive “removed earlier
I am working on a F body to 411 schematic, will post as soon as I get it solved. also working on how to set timing, do we use "vortec" specs or LS specs"
The purpose of my researching and building this system is largely due to the reliability issues and subsequent cost of the OPTISpark system that the LT1 is plagued with. I wanted a reliable, stable, economical, and trustworthy Ignition system in my 4X4 truck. And since I was installing an LT1 in it, I had some research to do.
Items that you will need:
Good Vortec Distributor
411 ECU
1996-1997 timing chain cover with provisions for CMP sensor.
1996-1997, and 5.7 Vortec 4X reluctor ring
1996-1997, or have 1/8 inch machined off of your non 1996 -1997
harmonic balancer to crank mount
The 4X reluctor will throw non reluctor units out of alignment
Intake gaskets and timing cover gaskets and seals
1. Contact the machine shop to set up exchange or expedited return. Ask for Aaron
2. Pull the intake, strip all fittings, brackets, sensors, and throttle body.
send in your intake
the mod failed, had to go to a TPI "for Now"
a. Remove the oil pump drive from back of block.
b. Remove the gear from the oil pump drive save it for the distributor
3. Remove water pump, and all necessary items to gain access to the timing chain cover.
4. Remove the harmonic balancer, and adaptor Trash the optispark
a. either purchase a 1996-1997 adaptor or machine yours 1/8 shorter off of the back
5. Remove timing chain cover,
a. after you have a 1996-1997 cover, knock out the middle seal, put silicone bead around the mating surface, install “Dorman” 555-112 frost plug, be sure to put the dome out, drive it into place, works best if you support the back of the cover. Wipe away excess silicone.
b. Picture here http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbend...in/photostream
c. Replace chain if needed!
6. Install the 4X reluctor,
7. Reinstall the timing chain cover
8. Install the CMP sensor
9. Install the shorter adaptor and balancer.
10. reinstall the water pump and all other stuff removed earlier
11. After your modded intake comes in reinstall it and all brackets sensors….
12. switch the gears on the distributor install the one from the oil pump drive “removed earlier
I am working on a F body to 411 schematic, will post as soon as I get it solved. also working on how to set timing, do we use "vortec" specs or LS specs"
Last edited by Tinbender59; 03-05-2013 at 09:45 PM.
#36
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What does the machine shop charge for the intake modifications? Any idea what their turn around time is on this?
My car is a 97, so I've already got most of the needed parts.
My car is a 97, so I've already got most of the needed parts.
#37
turnaround time should be a week or less in shop, he mentioned $200 to $250, I am going to be taking him my extra manifold, so that he has a ready unit for shipping.
#38
it is finished http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthre...997-K1500-SBSS
251hp 330lb/tq on the dyno
it is long, I am working on a web style Facebook page to better document the build and future projects. I have at least 3 more of my own,
251hp 330lb/tq on the dyno
it is long, I am working on a web style Facebook page to better document the build and future projects. I have at least 3 more of my own,