my dyno results
Easily run low 12s is a far stretch. If your running low 12s in a 3500lb car, your putting down 380-410hp. I know a lot of variables go into the equation other than HP, but I'd be happy to run 13.0s with a stock bottom end and ported heads. I'm aiming for low-to-mid 12s in my 383 w/CC280xfi, ported heads, 11.5 compression, with all the bolt ons, 3.73 gears, etc. If he can easily run low 12s, then I should be easily running high 10s, so I hope you're right, but I just can't see it.
Can you explain this?
And your car should run low 11s. Unless you are in Denver or gregrobs neighbor.
To give you an idea... My car ran 12.70 cam only with no traction, 8' of knock, a VERY rich tune, at 1700' density altitude.
Last edited by LSWHO; Apr 29, 2011 at 11:43 PM.
My car will run low 12s at more than 3500 pounds with less than 350whp... In poor weather.
Can you explain this?
And your car should run low 11s. Unless you are in Denver or gregrobs neighbor.
To give you an idea... My car ran 12.70 cam only with no traction, 8' of knock, a VERY rich tune, at 1700' density altitude.
Can you explain this?
And your car should run low 11s. Unless you are in Denver or gregrobs neighbor.
To give you an idea... My car ran 12.70 cam only with no traction, 8' of knock, a VERY rich tune, at 1700' density altitude.
In my first post, I calculated the ET to HP conversion in Wallace Racing calculators and it gave me 390HP for a 3500lb car to run 12.3. I know it's not possible to be accurate but it gives you an estimate of what HP you need to hit a certain ET or vise versa. I just thought I would share that with the OP, but that was obviously a mistake.
Just decided to check out Wallace Racing and see what HP it says for 11.5ET at 3500lbs, and it gave me 479HP at 2300DA. I assume that's rear wheel, but it may be flywheel. So with the 280xfi on a 383, I should be looking to put 450-500hp at the wheels? Camquest has it peaking just under 400fwhp at 5500. Camquest is also not accurate according to a few on here. So where do you get accurate information? Experience I guess. Which I'll admit I don't have much, so I'm on here soaking up the knowledge.
The point is there are a LOT of us who have been there done that and it is a bit aggravating when a newbie comes in, asks questions only to completely ignore all the experience based advise he asked for.
You are right, a lot of folks don't like my input, at least at first, a lot of them also later send me PMs or emails saying "you were right about everything". That is not what I want to hear from folks, I would rather hear they got things right the first time because they listened when they asked questions.
You are right, a lot of folks don't like my input, at least at first, a lot of them also later send me PMs or emails saying "you were right about everything". That is not what I want to hear from folks, I would rather hear they got things right the first time because they listened when they asked questions.
Man threads like this make me want to sell my lt1 and go back in debt for an ls1. My formula (02) ran a 12.6 on sumitomo street tires, long tubes and a slp lid with an auto and stock stall.
IMO you should be Making more HP for sure
IMO you should be Making more HP for sure
Last edited by AR15 guy; Apr 30, 2011 at 11:42 AM.
12.6 and MUCH better has been done via bolt on LT1 power
The biggest obstacle the LT1 faces is often the owner. Most stroker b-bodies don't run as well as my car. I am not a racer, this is the first car I ever modified, I don't have much of a budget, but I can do research and learn from my mistakes.
SSSSOOOOOOO many people really halfass their research and then blindly defend their mistakes OR do a complete 180 when they make a mistake and never work through it. They seem to apply those wrong too, there are mistakes you should walk away from and start over but those are the ones they defend, and in those cases where they need to stick to it and work it out they run away, sell the car or go back to stock or swap in an LS that they never make run right either.
SSSSOOOOOOO many people really halfass their research and then blindly defend their mistakes OR do a complete 180 when they make a mistake and never work through it. They seem to apply those wrong too, there are mistakes you should walk away from and start over but those are the ones they defend, and in those cases where they need to stick to it and work it out they run away, sell the car or go back to stock or swap in an LS that they never make run right either.
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this. dynos are tuning tools and can be made to show basically any result the operator wants via keystroke.
my 305whp 3550lb rw car went 12.1s @ 111 @ 2800' da. it was a big stall a4 bolt on ls1 car. dynos don't mean ****.
my 305whp 3550lb rw car went 12.1s @ 111 @ 2800' da. it was a big stall a4 bolt on ls1 car. dynos don't mean ****.
Thread Starter
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guys enough with the bullshitting everyone thinks different. i will get a dyno sheet up tomorrow. but i told the guy who tuned it that lt1 cars ive heard are around what i put down with boltons and he said not on his dyno they wont. i have no i dea what that means but judging from what guys on here claim they have from a bolton on car with a tune i feel i should be over 300rwhp.
