LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

my dyno results

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-29-2011, 11:31 PM
  #21  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
LSWHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mguidry629
Easily run low 12s is a far stretch. If your running low 12s in a 3500lb car, your putting down 380-410hp. I know a lot of variables go into the equation other than HP, but I'd be happy to run 13.0s with a stock bottom end and ported heads. I'm aiming for low-to-mid 12s in my 383 w/CC280xfi, ported heads, 11.5 compression, with all the bolt ons, 3.73 gears, etc. If he can easily run low 12s, then I should be easily running high 10s, so I hope you're right, but I just can't see it.
My car will run low 12s at more than 3500 pounds with less than 350whp... In poor weather.

Can you explain this?

And your car should run low 11s. Unless you are in Denver or gregrobs neighbor.

To give you an idea... My car ran 12.70 cam only with no traction, 8' of knock, a VERY rich tune, at 1700' density altitude.

Last edited by LSWHO; 04-29-2011 at 11:43 PM.
Old 04-30-2011, 01:21 AM
  #22  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LSWHO
My car will run low 12s at more than 3500 pounds with less than 350whp... In poor weather.

Can you explain this?

And your car should run low 11s. Unless you are in Denver or gregrobs neighbor.

To give you an idea... My car ran 12.70 cam only with no traction, 8' of knock, a VERY rich tune, at 1700' density altitude.
DA here is about 2300 on a warm humid day. Maybe they measured the 1/4 wrong or something. Or my car is just a turd. These cars run about 14.3 stock right? So you picked up 1.5 secs with cam only, no traction, knock, running rich? I'm not doubting you but mathematically it doesn't make sense. I assume you got your 350whp from a dyno, which I've learned are not always accurate. Maybe your were actually putting down closer to 400hp. IDK?

In my first post, I calculated the ET to HP conversion in Wallace Racing calculators and it gave me 390HP for a 3500lb car to run 12.3. I know it's not possible to be accurate but it gives you an estimate of what HP you need to hit a certain ET or vise versa. I just thought I would share that with the OP, but that was obviously a mistake.

Just decided to check out Wallace Racing and see what HP it says for 11.5ET at 3500lbs, and it gave me 479HP at 2300DA. I assume that's rear wheel, but it may be flywheel. So with the 280xfi on a 383, I should be looking to put 450-500hp at the wheels? Camquest has it peaking just under 400fwhp at 5500. Camquest is also not accurate according to a few on here. So where do you get accurate information? Experience I guess. Which I'll admit I don't have much, so I'm on here soaking up the knowledge.
Old 04-30-2011, 01:29 AM
  #23  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
LSWHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I didn't dyno my car. I'm a cam only lt1. Most dyno sub 350. So I assume I'm sub 350.
Old 04-30-2011, 05:52 AM
  #24  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
96capricemgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,975
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

The point is there are a LOT of us who have been there done that and it is a bit aggravating when a newbie comes in, asks questions only to completely ignore all the experience based advise he asked for.

You are right, a lot of folks don't like my input, at least at first, a lot of them also later send me PMs or emails saying "you were right about everything". That is not what I want to hear from folks, I would rather hear they got things right the first time because they listened when they asked questions.
Old 04-30-2011, 08:27 AM
  #25  
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
 
SS RRR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jackstandican
Posts: 11,059
Received 537 Likes on 389 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LigHtEmUp01
car made 277rwhp and 339tq. i think the car should have made more. does anyone else think that with the torque it put down i should be alot more hp?
I think you should ignore what the dyno says and take it to the track.
Old 04-30-2011, 11:16 AM
  #26  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
AR15 guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Barboursville, WV
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Man threads like this make me want to sell my lt1 and go back in debt for an ls1. My formula (02) ran a 12.6 on sumitomo street tires, long tubes and a slp lid with an auto and stock stall.

IMO you should be Making more HP for sure

Last edited by AR15 guy; 04-30-2011 at 11:42 AM.
Old 04-30-2011, 11:49 AM
  #27  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
gregrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: 6,000+ feet
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by AR15 guy
Man threads like this make me want to sell my lt1 and go back in debt for an ls1. My formula (02) ran a 12.6 on sumitomo street tires, long tubes and a slp lid with an auto and stock stall.

IMO you should be Making more HP for sure
Because someone did a **** build you want yo buy an LS1? That's retarded

12.6 and MUCH better has been done via bolt on LT1 power
Old 04-30-2011, 03:18 PM
  #28  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
96capricemgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,975
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

The biggest obstacle the LT1 faces is often the owner. Most stroker b-bodies don't run as well as my car. I am not a racer, this is the first car I ever modified, I don't have much of a budget, but I can do research and learn from my mistakes.

SSSSOOOOOOO many people really halfass their research and then blindly defend their mistakes OR do a complete 180 when they make a mistake and never work through it. They seem to apply those wrong too, there are mistakes you should walk away from and start over but those are the ones they defend, and in those cases where they need to stick to it and work it out they run away, sell the car or go back to stock or swap in an LS that they never make run right either.
Old 04-30-2011, 06:14 PM
  #29  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
gregrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: 6,000+ feet
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Yes!!
Old 04-30-2011, 11:06 PM
  #30  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
 
s346k's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: johnson co.
Posts: 3,433
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by SS RRR
I think you should ignore what the dyno says and take it to the track.
this. dynos are tuning tools and can be made to show basically any result the operator wants via keystroke.

my 305whp 3550lb rw car went 12.1s @ 111 @ 2800' da. it was a big stall a4 bolt on ls1 car. dynos don't mean ****.
Old 05-01-2011, 11:20 PM
  #31  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
LigHtEmUp01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

guys enough with the bullshitting everyone thinks different. i will get a dyno sheet up tomorrow. but i told the guy who tuned it that lt1 cars ive heard are around what i put down with boltons and he said not on his dyno they wont. i have no i dea what that means but judging from what guys on here claim they have from a bolton on car with a tune i feel i should be over 300rwhp.
Old 05-01-2011, 11:46 PM
  #32  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
 
henry172's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What type of dyno is it? You would put down less on a Mustang Dyno.



Quick Reply: my dyno results



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:29 PM.