M6 LT1 drop
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Sacramento, CA
M6 LT1 drop I just finished getting most of the connections and hoses free from the motor and now i am moving to the trans. What all needs to be disconnected to drop the trans along with the motor. I've got the torque arm off, removed the shifter and center console. Looks like i have to just take off the slave? will fluid come gushing out? im not too familiar with the trans. Ive got a guide for a A4 and it list tranny cooler lines and shifter linkage. Couldn't find much help on manual trans. Any help or tips?
u should have the speed cable and harness yes fluid will come out of tail shaft housing when u pull the driveshaft and will drain completly as u pull her out should by a trans snout it plugs up the tail shaft then got the fake cross member then the real cross member and the i pipe,driveshaft then i think thats it man gl
yeah there a pain in the a$$ yes u should be able to get it there or ive seen them at harbor freight i think thats the name of the hole sell place oh they are usally pink or orange
worse case grab some electrical tape and a walmart bag with bag close cover tailshaft and wrap tape around it FAST!!!
worse case grab some electrical tape and a walmart bag with bag close cover tailshaft and wrap tape around it FAST!!!
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damn. well heres another question. all the wires leading to the PCM.. do it leave em in the car or does it all come off... sorry its hot over here and the heat is making me stupid 
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Sacramento, CA
first time dropping the motor through the bottom and decided to drop the tranny along with it. Just taking my time and wanted to know if "all" wires from PCM --> engine/ opti/ trans etc needed to be disconnected.. I then realized of course.. all wires must be disconnected. My grey matter has been all used up from finals week and not having a proper DIY write up is making this harder than expected.
However.. i have made some progress working little by little when i find time.
-removed all Rad. water hoses
-Most of wires removed except grounds, lower block connections O2 sensors etc, tranny wires
-one y-pipe bolt is being a B****
-then i still need to remove torque arm (do i need to just unbolt the two bolt on the rear and the torque arm will slide out? or does the bracket on the tranny need to come off also?)
-AC compressor hoses (can i just push it out of the way or am i better off just removing the compressor?)
I'm getting pissed of because i've read people dropping the motor in 3-4 hours and i'm wayyy beyond that.
However.. i have made some progress working little by little when i find time.
-removed all Rad. water hoses
-Most of wires removed except grounds, lower block connections O2 sensors etc, tranny wires
-one y-pipe bolt is being a B****
-then i still need to remove torque arm (do i need to just unbolt the two bolt on the rear and the torque arm will slide out? or does the bracket on the tranny need to come off also?)
-AC compressor hoses (can i just push it out of the way or am i better off just removing the compressor?)
I'm getting pissed of because i've read people dropping the motor in 3-4 hours and i'm wayyy beyond that.
I used the guide from Michigan Speed. Worked great.
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
For wiring, the only stuff you need to pull is:
1) battery, starter wires, grounds.
2) 3 connectors inside cab under passenger's side dash/kick panel and pull them out through the firewall
3) 2 or 3 harness connections on the passenger's side strut tower.
4) O2's
5) ABS connectors
For the AC, I was able to un-bolt the connection from the back of the AC compressor and leave all my compressor hoses/connections in the engine bay.
You can unbolt the 2 bolts on the rear for the torque arm, and you'll probably need to loosen (but not necessarily remove) the clamshell and wiggle the torque arm out.
Definitely drain the trans. This is a good opportunity to inspect the fluid to get an idea of your transmission's health, and to do a bit more maintenance by changing the fluid out.
The clutch slave will not leak any fluid. Unbolt it from the trans and let it hang.
Make sure to remember to disconnect your brake lines too.
Don't worry about the time...the first time I pulled my motor, it took like 6 hours.
The second time I pulled my motor....took about 2.
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
For wiring, the only stuff you need to pull is:
1) battery, starter wires, grounds.
2) 3 connectors inside cab under passenger's side dash/kick panel and pull them out through the firewall
3) 2 or 3 harness connections on the passenger's side strut tower.
4) O2's
5) ABS connectors
For the AC, I was able to un-bolt the connection from the back of the AC compressor and leave all my compressor hoses/connections in the engine bay.
You can unbolt the 2 bolts on the rear for the torque arm, and you'll probably need to loosen (but not necessarily remove) the clamshell and wiggle the torque arm out.
Definitely drain the trans. This is a good opportunity to inspect the fluid to get an idea of your transmission's health, and to do a bit more maintenance by changing the fluid out.
The clutch slave will not leak any fluid. Unbolt it from the trans and let it hang.
Make sure to remember to disconnect your brake lines too.
Don't worry about the time...the first time I pulled my motor, it took like 6 hours.
The second time I pulled my motor....took about 2.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Sacramento, CA
The low oil sensor is a blind one. Just stick a small flat blade screwdriver down a slot in the sensor. If you get it right the screwdriver will go into a slot in the sensor. Lift up and it will pull out if you have the screwdriver in the slot. Hard to explain, but once you see if all makes sense.
hth
andy schuck
hth
andy schuck
Been awhile since i've done it but i'm pretty sure you tap it up toward the firewall as you stated and then when you've got the bottom off, obviously tap it back down and off of the end of the steering column. Anyone please correct me if i'm wrong but if i remember correctly that's how ya do it.
tab the top part of the steering toward the firewall, once it starts to come apart you've done the hard part. you should be able to pull it apart after you make a little progress. chances are it hasn't been separated in a long time and just needs some "encouragement".
don't worry about the time it takes...took me days to remove my motor and trans. the guys that do it in 3-4hrs are experienced and have all the right tools. most important, i took pictures of all the vacuum lines, connections, etc... so i had a guide when I put it back together.
don't worry about the time it takes...took me days to remove my motor and trans. the guys that do it in 3-4hrs are experienced and have all the right tools. most important, i took pictures of all the vacuum lines, connections, etc... so i had a guide when I put it back together.