Enlighten me on what you meant man, I can't picture what you had going on there to save my life. 
Oil Pan removal
Oil Pan removal I have searched and searched but I have come up with nothing for a question i have. I need to do the oil pan gasket on my 95 Trans Am, and I have found plenty of ways to do it but...here is my main question.
Can the oil pan be removed without removing the y-pipe? The reason i ask is because the y-pipe bolts are rusted beyond repair and I am not ready to break them and remove the manifold to get the bolts out.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, also I am having to replace the oil pan gasket because it is leaking. As you can see in the picture. The picture is of the bottom of the timing chain cover where it meets the oil pan.
-Buddy-
Can the oil pan be removed without removing the y-pipe? The reason i ask is because the y-pipe bolts are rusted beyond repair and I am not ready to break them and remove the manifold to get the bolts out.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, also I am having to replace the oil pan gasket because it is leaking. As you can see in the picture. The picture is of the bottom of the timing chain cover where it meets the oil pan.
-Buddy-
It's possible to drop the pan slightly and thread the new gasket through the dipstick tube.
I did mine a year ago. I removed the stock y pipe after soaking the y pipe studs in pb blaster for almost 3 days. I also have a 95. I ended breaking 3 of the 6 loose and the other 3 broke in half. I had to drill them out, retap the holes and put new studs in, pain in the ***. I also removed the motor mount bolts and used wooden blocks to raise the engine. Loosen the 6 k-member bolts to lower the sub frame and it will have just enough room to come out.
I did mine a year ago. I removed the stock y pipe after soaking the y pipe studs in pb blaster for almost 3 days. I also have a 95. I ended breaking 3 of the 6 loose and the other 3 broke in half. I had to drill them out, retap the holes and put new studs in, pain in the ***. I also removed the motor mount bolts and used wooden blocks to raise the engine. Loosen the 6 k-member bolts to lower the sub frame and it will have just enough room to come out.
Just thought of this but if you really really really want to keep Y-Pipe bolted on and committed to doing it no matter the pain, unbolt the manifolds. Y-Pipe will probably drop a bit. Just a thought. Go nuts.
Then keep the gasket and surfaces clean (another hard thing if cars dirty) and bring the gasket under and around, then over and in place.
Then keep the gasket and surfaces clean (another hard thing if cars dirty) and bring the gasket under and around, then over and in place.
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Brett Foote
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
I don't see whats so 'improper' about sliding the pan gasket under the pan and stretching it.
- The gasket does not need to be cut or folded in any way
- Oil pan gaskets are very flexible rubber, and very minor stretching is not a problem
Maybe some people just like dropping K-members or hoisting motors?
- The gasket does not need to be cut or folded in any way
- Oil pan gaskets are very flexible rubber, and very minor stretching is not a problem
Maybe some people just like dropping K-members or hoisting motors?
I went like most people have said, you go from the outside in, like a sock.
Raising the engine is a must, droping the k member not so much.
The real issues have been stated, i cant remember what the stock y pipe routing is, mine was off. Taking the starter off will help. another issue would be your AIR tube that runs right along the front curve on the oil pan.
If your going to take the time to remove the manifolds to drop the y pipe, you might as well just cut the y pipe, break the bolts, and put headers on it lol. For this to be done you should remove spark plugs, so why not just do headers when your in there. If you dont want long tubes you could get some mids with a new y pipe. The work needed to unbolt the manifolds is 70-80% of a header swap lol.
Its a pain in the ***, and its messy. You will curse, you will bleed, you might even cry. Youll feel like you just went through an entire relationship by the time your done with it....have fun!
Raising the engine is a must, droping the k member not so much.
The real issues have been stated, i cant remember what the stock y pipe routing is, mine was off. Taking the starter off will help. another issue would be your AIR tube that runs right along the front curve on the oil pan.
If your going to take the time to remove the manifolds to drop the y pipe, you might as well just cut the y pipe, break the bolts, and put headers on it lol. For this to be done you should remove spark plugs, so why not just do headers when your in there. If you dont want long tubes you could get some mids with a new y pipe. The work needed to unbolt the manifolds is 70-80% of a header swap lol.
Its a pain in the ***, and its messy. You will curse, you will bleed, you might even cry. Youll feel like you just went through an entire relationship by the time your done with it....have fun!
I appreciate all the help, we are going to attempt it this weekend. Also on a side note just because someone is a professional doesn't mean they do it better than someone who does it for fun!
-Buddy-
-Buddy-
I've changed several of these gaskets. Although I've been lucky enough to have gotten the y-pipe nuts off the manifold studs, I like the idea of unbolting the manifolds from the heads, and dropping the whole mess as a unit. Then you could remove the rusted nuts FAR easier, and replace them with new ones. And you could then raise the engine, and get the pan off a lot easier, without all the pipes in the way..
Just remember to unbolt the EGR tube from the RH manifold......
Just remember to unbolt the EGR tube from the RH manifold......
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
I'm sure he meant around the dipstick tube.
