machine shop screwy???
Ohio 4340 Forged Crankshaft
Ohio 4340 H-Beam 5.7 Rods w/ ARP 2000 Bolts
Keith Black Forged Pistons with +6.4cc Valve Reliefs
I'll take my chances on my "cheap" forged internals....I'm not building a race car here. All I care is if it will stay together to 6600 RPM better than my POS stock bottom end did. If I was going to spend 5K on a motor it certainly wouldn't be a LT1, LS is the logical/economical choice when it comes to HP per dollar not to mention LT is a dying platform...but I digress.
Ever location is diff....if u feel he screwed u then dont pay him.....to be sure get him to give u a invoice....Which u should of had....never assume a price......thats ur fault.....my builder laid out exactly cent for cent what he charges and parts.....and parts have part numbers....then i compared around and nope he was the cheapestand one of the best(compared to good shops...obviouslly cheap shops would cost less)......i paid 2k for all out motor prep ....clearance for 383...4bolt conv with parts....etc...even flywheel ...clutc balance .....stroker kit balanced.....and assembly.....i brought him the piston...rods....rings......and crank.....he put the rest......so i hope this helps......get that invoice....good shops dont estimate much on price.....they have exact charge on things......and can easily lay out what ur paying for......do this first before assume he got u.
I'll take my chances on my "cheap" forged internals....I'm not building a race car here. All I care is if it will stay together to 6600 RPM better than my POS stock bottom end did. If I was going to spend 5K on a motor it certainly wouldn't be a LT1, LS is the logical/economical choice when it comes to HP per dollar not to mention LT is a dying platform...but I digress.
I know there is WAY more aftermarket support for LS motors now compared to LT....you cannot argue that anymore...it's not 1999. I never said anything about LS motors being the fastest small blocks....your just pulling **** out of your *** there. All I'm getting at is for MY BUDGET there is no way in hell I would build a 5k LT1 shortblock. ****, for 1K or so more you can buy a complete LS3 crate motor and stick a cam in the bitch and make well over 500HP. Get real dude...I have BOTH 99 Firehawk and 94 Formula...I LOVE my LT1 but, no question the LS is superior. (Didn't you read the no LS vs LT argument sticky?!) LOL 
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
jeeze ladies go change your tampons...
back on topic. total parts from summit is ~$650
plus $1450 for his machine work? last time i checked it was roughly 10-15/hole to be bored 15-20/rod
8x15
8x20
balancing 100???
baking the block? 20$
wheres the rest of the money going?
back on topic. total parts from summit is ~$650
plus $1450 for his machine work? last time i checked it was roughly 10-15/hole to be bored 15-20/rod
8x15
8x20
balancing 100???
baking the block? 20$
wheres the rest of the money going?
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Line honing? Assembly? Magnafluxing? Hot-tanking? Clearancing for the rods? Degreeing/installing the cam + timing chain?
My short-block, assembled, with my own supplied parts (minus the crank) and installing the cam was just over $3000.
My short-block, assembled, with my own supplied parts (minus the crank) and installing the cam was just over $3000.
Ever location is diff....if u feel he screwed u then dont pay him.....to be sure get him to give u a invoice....Which u should of had....never assume a price......thats ur fault.....my builder laid out exactly cent for cent what he charges and parts.....and parts have part numbers....then i compared around and nope he was the cheapestand one of the best(compared to good shops...obviouslly cheap shops would cost less)......i paid 2k for all out motor prep ....clearance for 383...4bolt conv with parts....etc...even flywheel ...clutc balance .....stroker kit balanced.....and assembly.....i brought him the piston...rods....rings......and crank.....he put the rest......so i hope this helps......get that invoice....good shops dont estimate much on price.....they have exact charge on things......and can easily lay out what ur paying for......do this first before assume he got u.
here's what i just payed for the machine work on my block:
vat block - $63.25
mag and inspect block, crank, rods, etc - $75.75
grind crank - $134.55
resize big end - $22.43 X 8 - $179.44
balance - $201.25
bore and hone - $166.75
resurface block - $143.75
install cam bearings - $40.25
total: $1004.99
then the heads were another $350 or so
vat block - $63.25
mag and inspect block, crank, rods, etc - $75.75
grind crank - $134.55
resize big end - $22.43 X 8 - $179.44
balance - $201.25
bore and hone - $166.75
resurface block - $143.75
install cam bearings - $40.25
total: $1004.99
then the heads were another $350 or so
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
i would be doing the assembly, cam install, timing, i will have my other shop bore it and resize the rods and install everything else my self. 800 vs 2100 hmmmm same damn thing i would buy an lq4 LONG before i spent 2100 on ONLY a ******* piston install
here's what i just payed for the machine work on my block:
vat block - $63.25
mag and inspect block, crank, rods, etc - $75.75
grind crank - $134.55
resize big end - $22.43 X 8 - $179.44
balance - $201.25
bore and hone - $166.75
resurface block - $143.75
install cam bearings - $40.25
total: $1004.99
then the heads were another $350 or so
vat block - $63.25
mag and inspect block, crank, rods, etc - $75.75
grind crank - $134.55
resize big end - $22.43 X 8 - $179.44
balance - $201.25
bore and hone - $166.75
resurface block - $143.75
install cam bearings - $40.25
total: $1004.99
then the heads were another $350 or so