Lt4 hot cam
,and if your doing this by yourself it was my first one to and I just turned 19 just follow the guides and you should be good. Good luck!
)Every car is different and not every lt1 eats waterpumps and opti's. 36,000 miles since i swapped and im still fine. My opti suddenly went out maybe 20,000 miles after but it was a freak thing. Still fine to this day. 3 years or so. Plus its not even hard to change. idk. whatever.
I say cc503 would be a better choice if your doing headwork anyways. On the same set of ported heads I would put big money where my mouth is when i say youll get more power with the cc503 vs the hotcam and loose nothing in terms of driveability or gas mileage on a properly tuned car.
The way that ive looked at it, and the way ill always look at it, is to go big or just dont go anywhere. Ive seen way to many people not like their smaller safer cam selections and want to swap it out or actually swap it out to a larger cam. I would say the lt4 hot cam takes the pie home with this incident.
A larger cam like the cc503 or like im sure is mentioned a LE or Ai grind could take your farther in the end then a hotcam. Maybe you blow your bottom end down the road and want to do a 355 or 383 rebuild. Could re use the cc503 or LE or Ai grind, The lt4 youll probably want to do away with in that case.
Does the LT4 hotcam perform and make power? Yes...period.
Like 95T-A said, Its not hard to do yourself, buy a torque wrench and start taking **** apart! (not with the torque wrench, but you need it for reassembly)
Last edited by trilkb; Aug 17, 2011 at 07:35 PM.
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Last edited by 96lt1m6; Aug 17, 2011 at 08:24 PM.
11.8 bolt on time isnt from power, its from hooking like hell from a crazy hard launch lol.
Stock rebuild with speed pro forged pistons, cc503, ls7 lifters, stock heads, 52mm tb, lt headers, 1.6 rr, dumped duals with x pipe,m6 and 3.73 gears in the stock rear made 343/363.
Not saying its any better than the hotcam just letting you know what i got out of mine, also get around 19-20 mpg heavy footed normal driving.
Last edited by NewOrleansLT1; Aug 17, 2011 at 10:24 PM.
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Every car is different and not every lt1 eats waterpumps and opti's. 36,000 miles since i swapped and im still fine. My opti suddenly went out maybe 20,000 miles after but it was a freak thing. Still fine to this day. 3 years or so. Plus its not even hard to change. idk. whatever.
I drive my car plenty and its been extremely reliable. Im 23, Ive had it 4.5 yrs now as a DD in Wisconsin. Just shipped it out to San Diego so i could drive it there. Drove everywhere in Cali with it without issues. Bought it with 48000 and it now has 99,000 on it.
Never said they werent wear items but if something works and is working fine, why replace it? thats all im getting at.
Yea, in that mileage range from 40K-100K yea, I only went through 1 opti and 1 water pump. ****, your just breaking your car in...4.5 years lol. All I'm getting at most LT1's are high mileage now....so unless you are either cheap as hell or broke it's foolish NOT to replace them if they are worn out with over 50K on them...working or not. You can get a waterpump for $130...cap and rotor at least for $100...so unless you have a high school budget just do it. Guarantee the cost of labor or pain in the *** of having to re-do either of these yourself is worth it. Prove me wrong
I drive my car plenty and its been extremely reliable. Im 23, Ive had it 4.5 yrs now as a DD in Wisconsin. Just shipped it out to San Diego so i could drive it there. Drove everywhere in Cali with it without issues. Bought it with 48000 and it now has 99,000 on it.
Never said they werent wear items but if something works and is working fine, why replace it? thats all im getting at.
Last edited by 95T-A; Aug 18, 2011 at 09:06 PM.
Yea, in that mileage range from 40K-100K yea, I only went through 1 opti and 1 water pump. ****, your just breaking your car in...4.5 years lol. All I'm getting at most LT1's are high mileage now....so unless you are either cheap as hell or broke it's foolish NOT to replace them if they are worn out with over 50K on them...working or not. You can get a waterpump for $130...cap and rotor at least for $100...so unless you have a high school budget just do it. Guarantee the cost of labor or pain in the *** of having to re-do either of these yourself is worth it. Prove me wrong 
I do my own work on my car so the cost of labor is nothing besides a few hours on a weekend. Its really not that hard to change an opti or waterpump. i personally dont see any pain the *** part about it. Just saying. I dont mind spending money but on parts that are working fine is dumb and a waste of money. Im not exactly making bank on a E3 paycheck but still.
Agree to disagree at this point
Im done with this LOL Last edited by Badazz 97 TA; Aug 19, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
I do my own work on my car so the cost of labor is nothing besides a few hours on a weekend. Its really not that hard to change an opti or waterpump. i personally dont see any pain the *** part about it. Just saying. I dont mind spending money but on parts that are working fine is dumb and a waste of money. Im not exactly making bank on a E3 paycheck but still.
Agree to disagree at this point
Im done with this LOL
) because Ive been there done that. Let's see how many optis and waterpumps you go through in the next 9.5 years before you call my car a POS...LOL. For me replacing an opti or water pump is a half hour to an hour ordeal that I can do blindfolded. If I don't spend the money now and it blows up say a year later, I replace it a year later. No biggie.
There's no wrong or right way, no rhyme or reason here. It's all personal preference.






