LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

engine removal

Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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i am following the write-up on michigan speed to remove the engine from below.
when i am disconnecting the brake lines, where am i disconnecting from? the calipers?
if so, do i unroute the brake lines after?
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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disconnect from your ABS, leave them connected at the wheels. the lines will drop down with the kmember
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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and thatd be the big silver unit in the front of the engine bay on the driver side with a few metal lines running to it, right?
and not the one that has the resivor connected to it
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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trace the line from the brake caliper back into the engine compartment, the first place you can disconnect it is where you want to disconnect it.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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You'll have to have someone close to carefully help thread them past/through/under/over the other engine compartment lines/cables and WHY as you lower the subframe.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 04:57 PM
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thanks alot! very much appreciated
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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the nuts wont move at all, anybody got an idea they used?
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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Use line wrenches. The fittings are metric IIRC.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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if i cut these off, what would i be looking at to replace them?
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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wouldn't cut them off... if you cut them then to do it right you would have to reroute new brake lines or rig it and put compression fitting on it... if you cant get them with line wrenches you may have to go a different route... maybe some vise grips or something, but i'd try line wrenches first for sure

they were a PITA to get off the first time, but they'll come off... try letting some pb blaster soak on them too
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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i tried line wrenches and vice grips
this is last resort
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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You would probably need to get new brake lines with the correct fittings. As suggested try the line wrenches first before you cut the line.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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Just disconnect from your master cylinder and let it all hang. Just disconnect the larger brake line from the ABS, the one that goes to the rear brakes. Is a larger diameter and you should be able to get that one off. Let it all hang with the engine and try not to bend the hard lines that much.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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is this actually safe to put my chains where it says to in the write-up?
the horn would be directly under the chains on the pass and what appears to be an ecu on the driver side. i put the chains on the other side of the hole, and it bent the metal some so i stopped.
so i guess what im asking is where is the best place to put the chains to lift the car?
attached is my set up
Attached Thumbnails engine removal-cimg0262-1-.jpg   engine removal-cimg0263-1-.jpg   engine removal-cimg0264-1-.jpg   engine removal-cimg0265-1-.jpg  
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 11:57 PM
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wrap it through the holes on both sides, make it tighter though, you have too much slack. look in my pic, see how low i hook it (my ceiling is short, so I need all the room I can get)


Last edited by merim123; Aug 19, 2011 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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it needs to be tight before you start raising it?
this pic is with the engine hoist down
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 12:07 AM
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and i am wrapping the chain in a good spot?
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 12:31 AM
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is the radiator support on the bottom of the car strong enough to be my lifting point?
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 01:07 AM
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Just a little friendly safety advice... The grab hook should go over a link in the chain, and not through it.

Even though the weight you're trying to lift is probably far under the rating of the hook, you don't want the tip to break off. That might ruin your day.
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 01:45 AM
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You've got the chain in the right spot.


And you dont wana cut those lines, you'll be epicly pissed off when you have to replace them from the dealer and/or try and double flare them with new fittings. Life sucks with small hardline and flare tools.
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