I think some of your guy's prices are way off..then again I have a habit of sourcing **** for cheap so I guess that's just me.

I'll throw this up for ***** n grins..my current S10 LS1 Build, using LS1 F-body Accessories, just the Oil Pan is the Muscle Car Pan.

LS1 ENGINE WITH HEADS: $600
WATER PUMP: $25
LS1 CORVETTE INTAKE, FUEL RAILS, THROTTLE BODY & SENSORS: $265
LS1 COOLANT TUBES: $36.05
LS1 INJECTORS & KNOCK SENSORS: $85
TRUCK COILS & KNOCK SENSOR WIRING: $93
LS1 VALVE COVERS & ROCKERS: $99
HEAD BOLTS, HEAD GASKETS, VALVE SEALS, GROMMETS: $145
CRANK SENSOR: $35.67
MAP SENSOR, INTAKE BOLTS: $33
TENSIONER, POWER STEERING PUMP: $56
STARTER: $40
PCM & WIRING HARNESS: $304
LS1 FRONT & REAR MAIN SEALS: $42
LS1 NON-TCS THROTTLE CABLE: $31.45
OIL PAN, POWER STEERING PARTS, TEMP SENSOR: $267
Z06 HOTCAM: $90
COMP 7.450 HARDENED PUSHRODS: $83


That right there is right about $2330.. and I still need an Alternator. I had several parts laying around too..Oil Press Sensor, Cam Sensor, GM Yellow Springs.

Yea it's more than the $1500 mark..if I went with a 5.3l that was $400 like mentioned above I'd be lower..but I went with the LS1 and I took some time to give it an over-haul and beef it up.

My individual parts cost is alot lower than the prices that you guys were throwing up tho..that's the point I'm tryin to make.

 

that's my point merv, there is a lot of cost that goes into the conversion that doesn't have to do with sourcing the engine. even if you get a great deal on a motor, unless it's an ls1 out of an fbody, you'll still need the oil pan, front accessories, intake, harness&pcm,motor mounts to get it into a LT1 fbody.

back to the OP - the reason this feels expensive is that our cars aren't worth much as much as LS cars. but if you've got cash in your motor and it's built setup, the 24x is a lot more reasonable than a conversion in my opinion.

if your motor is on it's last leg, then maybe the conversion is right for you, but don't underestimate all the small things that will add to the cost, that's all.

 

Get an XFI then, all my gauges work. Not sure why a BS3 can't do the same as it was designed by the same guy.

 

The LS1 PCM also supports full A/C controls from the LT1 car (A/C pressure sensor, A/C ON input, and A/C request). I'm not sure if the aftermarket ECUs have that support.

 

You get what u pay for. This kit is flawless in every way! For someone to say its overpriced is ridiculous! I think it should be more. Try tuning a forced induction setup on a stock LT1 PCM and compare. Great job Mike. People are lucky to have an option like this to rely on.

 

Yeah some of you have horrible used parts markets it sounds.

I purchased a LM7, 67k miles, with 4l60e, complete wire harness(including fuse/relay box and body harness), coils, PCM, all accessories, cooling system, most of the fuel system for...... $1200. Granted this is going into my 88 Silverado, I did the 24x to my car, the LT1 is going nowhere now!

I used to say I'd jump ship if I had a failure, but at this point I don't care in dropping 60 lbs. in block weight or whatever the weight loss is.

 

Btw Corey did you ever get your car straighten out?

 

"You get what you pay for!" I have alot of money and time into my LT1. I never felt that the ignition or wiring was 100% (which im confident it wasnt) Its Much easier to do a practically direct swap for the 24x setup. Im putting it in my car as we speak; and with the custom wiring harness that Mike from EFI made (it was pricey but WORTH EVERY PENNY!) its going to be a Breeze!

I honestly cant thank Mike enough for the incredible kit he's put together. Truely perfect!

 

Yep mine should be ready next weekend and I cant wait. It was worth every penny. I did mine on the super cheap used round truck coils $50, used cover $40, used hub $30, repined the harness myself $100, pcm $100, re used my lt1 plug wires free, the only thing I paid full price was the actually 24x stuff.

 

As stated if you can find cheap deals on the coils, pcm, hub, timing cover, knock sensor, plug wires it can be done on the cheap side. Everyone thinks it such a huge investment at the 1500-2k price tag if you price it out on the website. A Delco opti new at summit is 379/507$ or a MSD is 489/515$. So just keep that thought in the back of your head.

What i have into mine: I bought a used kit off a member on this site that parted out his build. Payed $800 shipped. Included PCM, PCM Tray, Coils, DIY Coil Brackets, MSD Custom Wires, Boot Protectors, DIY Wiring Harness for 96 Auto car, and the 24x compenents from EFI. Since then its cost me $70 (Us-Canada shipping!) for 97 Timing Cover, and $75 for Mint 94 Wiring Harness (Reworked for Emissions, Model Year, and T56). So i have about 950 into my kit so far. All i need is a knock sensor and a hub replacement for my ATI Damper which is $$$ but well worth the added cash vs a stock hub and balancer. So at the most ill have $1100 into.

What does this get me vs a delco? Ive always had issues with my car it has 230k and ive replaced and diagnosed ign switchs, coils, icm, wiring, opti's,wires, plugs, etc. Just couldnt get a RELIABLE ignition system and its left me stranded countless times and the stress and time diagnosing these issues is enought to turn alot of people off. This setup totally deletes the opti and the troublesome issues and gives you alot more options for tuning and likely better running engine. So for what it costs for two new optis over the span of say 5-10 yrs i would rather spend the money now and have to worry less and enjoy my car more! While getting that out of it you can get peice of mind and trust your car to go anywhere specially long distances at a time. Love it or hate it aint for everybody but when youve invested alot of time and money into your car and have countless bad encounters you will not blink to do this swap!

 

The Number one question is "Do Your Really Need a 24x System" Again, yes the LS is a better design ,coil on plug, get rid 0f the Opti ect. But too many people get caught up on the internet scrabble. I see post where one is building your typical heads and cam, cc 503 or 306 equivalent and some one chimes in and says, If you want street manners then you NEED to convert to the 24x system. Simply not true. A good tuner can make the LT work. Unless you have a DD motor that makes power past 7000 RPMs ( which I rarely see) then you do not "NEED" this setup. Mine, granted forced inducted, made 722 RWHP and was a DD, I mean AC, drove on trips, perfect street manners.

 

I agree with you Moe, its not NEEDED but isnt a horrible upgrade either. The reason for my conversion is the upper RPM breakup ive fought for 4 years. Nothing showed up Datalogging so it was a mystery from the start.

After switching:
3 coils
4 ICM
2 computers, 4 tunes
2 DIFFERENT ENGINE COMBINAIONS (completely different blocks and valve train)
3 sets of lifters
2 engine harness'
3 sets of plug wires
mulitiple sets of plugs at different gaps
4 optisparks
2 sets of injectors
3 crank sensors
2 MAF sensors, 3 throttle bodies with different sensors
OBDI conversion
different knock sensors

I have given up, Mattsapp went through the same issues and went 24x and the miss was gone. Im not Saying it will fix mine but it willl eliminate a bunch more things for me.

I was lucky after selling a 6AL and a mallory 685 box, a bad MSD opti, a good MSD opti, and returning my new Delco opti I had more then enough money to do the conversion and buy a MSD timing twister for it. Infact I still have money left over.

Honestly IF this conversion fixes my top end miss Ill regret not going to it sooner. I mean look at the money I spent trying to diagnose it.

 

Oh totally agree with you brother my h/c package runs awesome with my local friend that tunes. The point is there isnt alot of good local tuners anymore and for the people that cant find that or have to drive long distances this is good perk and frankly sometimes an only resort besides a mailorder. The faster pcm will help and make things alot easier to tune and diagnose now being able to utilize the obdII system as alot converted back to obdI for tunning purposes. Most performance shops have and use HPTuners alot so were able to keep up and not fall behind. Seems like LT1 tuning is turning into what the TPI tuning phase was like and is now which is extinct.

The question is should everyone just jump on the band wagon? Answer is no... there is alot of people that have had zero issues with there ignition system but for the people that do and just cant catch a break im willing to splurge a little bit rather then part my car for an ls swap or car outright. Ive come close a couple times but in the end i love the car i just want it reliable and if it cost me 800-1000 to do so im willing to bite the bullet rather then do the new trend which is LS ******* everything. My old mans 95 t/a for example has about 120k is still rocking the stock opti with the adition of a msd cap and rotor kit. Its been pissed on 2 or 3 times and even when it was spitting up coolant soon as she dried its 100% just a freak and pisses me right the **** off but it is what it is. I love the LT1 and its becoming a dying breed and is very overlooked as ive suprised a tone of people on the street and mine is mild compared to alot of the cars on this site!

 

I agree with others here as I've just built an all forged h/c/single plane conversion LT1 for my Z28 and I brought the whole 24x system including the new engine harness, billet TPIS timing cover, LS2 coils and custom brackets. But it's what I wanted and after all the money I've invested in my new combo (faceplated t56 as well) I wanted thebest most reliable setup in my car.
Plus it's getting harder and harder to find anyone in my area who can/will even tune LTx stuff anymore and everyone can tune the LSx stuff. This was one of the major reasons I switched.
Finally if I want an LSx powered car I'll just buy one and mod it instead of swapping all my LTx stuff out, but that's my .02 cents.

 

I felt the same way, if I wanted an LS1 F-body that bad I would have bought one. Not like they're expensive or rare.

 

As this is a thread on 24x, I'm guessing you mean in regards to getting my setup running correctly? I gotta make this statement as it seems like I'm one disaster after another! 24x, street twin, latest was a water pump splined shaft failure..... I'm a problem magnet it feels like.

Yes. I had a bad fuel pressure regulator(leaking). I love how I chased my *** on here for over a year and not one person suggested it, even with all the data logs I displayed with the motor constantly pulling fuel, the hard starts with extended cranking, etc..... Took til it burst completely and filled the cylinders completely with fuel before it was resolved, hell even with that info that I was now flooding the motor no one here brought up the regulator.....

Someone on EFI Live's forum caught it pretty quickly though when I posted up about it.

Once it was running correctly the tuner had it running in top shape in about a half hour.

 

How hard is the repin do you guys figure? Something an average person could do?

 

I assure you that if I can do it you can. It took me about 5 or 6 hours all together. It was super easy just time consuming.

 

Anyone can do the repin and as said above its just very time consuming and double checking your work with the lt1, ls1, and efi pinout charts to make sure everything is correct. Time will tell when i first crack the key on mine come spring.