cooling issues again... still
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 59
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cooling issues again... still I have a 94 z28 a4 I have been having cooling issues with this car for a long time. I just put in a 160 thermostate. I had it idleing in my garage for a while today but when I took it out for a drive it heated up some and when I would get stopped at a light the temp gauge would start climbing fast as soon as I started moving is would start going down again. I have the fans hotwired and they are both coming on. I'm wondering if maybe the raditor is clogged I haven't been able to find a leak anywhere. Thoughts/ ideas?
Is the car equipped with A/C? If so, you might have a lot of debris trapped between the condensor and the radiator, hurting your air flow. The fact that the temp goes down when driving, is a good sign, but to me, points to lack of air getting through the radiator at low speeds.
Secondly, when you changed the t'stat, did you THOROUGHLY 'burp' the cooloing system? LT1s are known to be difficult to purge all of the air out of the system, which leaves you with air pockets, which give you issues...
Secondly, when you changed the t'stat, did you THOROUGHLY 'burp' the cooloing system? LT1s are known to be difficult to purge all of the air out of the system, which leaves you with air pockets, which give you issues...
I'd start by making sure the block was cleaned and flushed out. I'd remove the radiator next and clean out all the fins on it and the a/c condensor. Also flush the rad and check for leaks and see what kinda junk comes out when your flush it.
My money would be on air in the system. You have to closely follow the instructions in the manual for bleeding, and even after doing that you have to monitor it for a few days to get all the air out. With a 160* stat and the fans on your coolant temp gauge should barely even move. You could also have a clogged radiator or coolant passages, and you might have a plastic bag or something in front of the radiator, but I would still guess it's air.
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From memory: Open both bleeders, fill radiator until both bleeders have a steady stream of coolant coming out (I never got that from the top one however, just the lower one) and then shut the bleeders. Continue filling radiator to top and put the cap back on. Run engine for four minutes and shut off. Fill radiator to top.
After you do all this be sure to check your radiator level every time the car is cold for a few heat/cool cycles, you may need to add coolant a few more times. It helps if your coolant level sensor works so you know when you need to add more.
After you do all this be sure to check your radiator level every time the car is cold for a few heat/cool cycles, you may need to add coolant a few more times. It helps if your coolant level sensor works so you know when you need to add more.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
I ended up finding it on shbox after I asked but thanks anyways I filled it following his instructions but also could not get it to come out of the blessed screw. I took it for a short drive and it didn't over heat but then it got up to normal temp for a 180 stat and I have a 160 stat I also did not have the fans turned on most the time I haven't checked the level since
Yeah like I said I never got more than maybe a drop of coolant at the top bleeder, but my cooling system has been working flawlessly ever since I refilled it. I think the key is to keep checking it for a week or so, you will catch some more air even after following the correct procedure.
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A solution to LT1 hot temps. Mine used to run 210 to 240, depending how hot and if AC was on. In South Florida..........its always hot. Basically I have used a 1-1/4" i.d. rubber hose about 30 feet long, with 90 degree fittings, couplings, hose clamps, etc. Anyway, using the hose, snaked in the front end bumper area, ( a 94' TA ), hose is a loop reconnecting to radiator. Car temp now is about 165-180 with A/C off, depending on outside air temps, and with A/C on, max temp was 210, with vehicle not moving. Car also has a 2800 stall ( more heat induced ) and 373's. Also has a 160 stat, but not sure if that matters. The extra water capacity and heat transfer thru the hose itself to ambiet air seems to work good. Hope this helps. Prior coolings fans on the A/C condensor didnt work as well.