24x hell
Aren't all 8 injectors wired separately though or no?
I just don't understand how I drove the car to class Tuesday and back home. Then Wed. I load a tune, car starts but runs bad, didn't want to hold an idle. Shut down reload last tune that at least got me around. Cranks for about two seconds then the fuel hydrolock issue.
Can you clarify TTS log? Is that some feature in EFI Live?
All fuses check ok.
I just don't understand how I drove the car to class Tuesday and back home. Then Wed. I load a tune, car starts but runs bad, didn't want to hold an idle. Shut down reload last tune that at least got me around. Cranks for about two seconds then the fuel hydrolock issue.
Can you clarify TTS log? Is that some feature in EFI Live?
All fuses check ok.
I know you're frustrated with this, but the fact the car won't fire now means all the bases aren't covered yet. you can't rule out parts or assume something is broken without getting to the basics. so
1) you need to make sure the pcm is getting voltage (it's coming from the c2xx connectors, look it up on shbox and confirm you have voltage there. if no voltage, repair that first. this will tell you if your pcm is in fact getting power
2) check your grounds on battery/engine block and back to frame. use a continuity checker to confirm and hear the beep from your ground.
3) load up a base tune just to get it to fire.
then restart on the tune. something is screwed up somewhere because your pump should not remain on after the initial prime. it could be in the tune or it could be a shorted wire somewhere (check the fuel pump relay and make sure all the wires there are ok)
1) you need to make sure the pcm is getting voltage (it's coming from the c2xx connectors, look it up on shbox and confirm you have voltage there. if no voltage, repair that first. this will tell you if your pcm is in fact getting power
2) check your grounds on battery/engine block and back to frame. use a continuity checker to confirm and hear the beep from your ground.
3) load up a base tune just to get it to fire.
then restart on the tune. something is screwed up somewhere because your pump should not remain on after the initial prime. it could be in the tune or it could be a shorted wire somewhere (check the fuel pump relay and make sure all the wires there are ok)
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Alright, I'll check out the wiring at the relay.
Also its been suggested to me that the fuel pressure regulator may be shot? I'm going to pull the vacuum line and see if there is fuel in it.
I loaded a tune that the car did run on into the new PCM.
I do want to sort that out, can I load a bone stock 02 Camaro/t56 tune in and everything should be OK?
The PCM section said if I get a test light I can see if the injectors are grounded all the time or not, going to look at that also.
Also its been suggested to me that the fuel pressure regulator may be shot? I'm going to pull the vacuum line and see if there is fuel in it.
I loaded a tune that the car did run on into the new PCM.
I do want to sort that out, can I load a bone stock 02 Camaro/t56 tune in and everything should be OK?
The PCM section said if I get a test light I can see if the injectors are grounded all the time or not, going to look at that also.
I'm suspecting somethings going wrong during your load into the PCM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Wouldn't it show a failure? EFI Live keeps telling me the tune is loading fine, no issues. It went the same as it has the last few week I have been loading tunes.
When I pulled the regulator line there wasn't a ton of fuel in it, but there was some. Is that line supposed to be bone dry, the vacuum line?
When I pulled the regulator line there wasn't a ton of fuel in it, but there was some. Is that line supposed to be bone dry, the vacuum line?
With the line off, put the key to "on" and see if fuel shoots out the regulator vacuum line nipple.
At one point, you said the fuel pump continued running without the engine running. This also leads me to think the PCM tuning is corrupted.
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Verdad Gallardo Just to clarify, from post 44, you said the fuel pump is not shutting off after initial prime. Is this with the key in the "on" position or the "crank" position?
It should continue to run while cranking (or attempting to crank). In the on position, it'll run then shut down if the engine is not running.
It should continue to run while cranking (or attempting to crank). In the on position, it'll run then shut down if the engine is not running.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Paul, it does continue to run while cranking. Which thank you, if that is normal than good. The initial prime it shuts off after the prime also like it should. So now we know that is all normal at least.
So the fuel pressure regulator, kept line off, turned the key to on, shot fuel everywhere.
So now my question, if fuel has been able to freely go down the vacuum line, could the vacuum from cranking be sucking fuel through the intake manifold and dumping it in the cylinders? I could see it drowning the spark out and filling up. Logical or improbable?
So the fuel pressure regulator, kept line off, turned the key to on, shot fuel everywhere.
So now my question, if fuel has been able to freely go down the vacuum line, could the vacuum from cranking be sucking fuel through the intake manifold and dumping it in the cylinders? I could see it drowning the spark out and filling up. Logical or improbable?
Sounds like the regulator diaphragm tore and is the cause of the overfueling, just hope you caught it before it did damage. I would not touch the key till you get the regulator swapped and change the oil.
OK, we're starting to rule out the PCM/tune-for now.
Stop everything.
Fix the FPR. Pull the plugs and clear out the raw fuel. I'd even suggest tossing some motor oil in the cylinders to get the rings lubed again. Do an oil & filter change.
Agreeing with 96 here, do not start/crank the engine until the FRP is fixed.
Stop everything.
Fix the FPR. Pull the plugs and clear out the raw fuel. I'd even suggest tossing some motor oil in the cylinders to get the rings lubed again. Do an oil & filter change.
Agreeing with 96 here, do not start/crank the engine until the FRP is fixed.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Oh believe me once I figured out the FPR was bad this morning I got to work. Pulled plugs, rotated motor by hand several rotations. Did the oil change, a good quart of fuel came out.
Dried out the plugs with compressed air. Stuck them back in the car. Crank, crank, fired right off. Did the idle learn procedure. Going to test drive in the AM.
It did smoke pretty good the first five minutes, blue smoke, but I did use oil of course to lubricate the fuel injector o-rings.
Dried out the plugs with compressed air. Stuck them back in the car. Crank, crank, fired right off. Did the idle learn procedure. Going to test drive in the AM.It did smoke pretty good the first five minutes, blue smoke, but I did use oil of course to lubricate the fuel injector o-rings.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Glad to hear everything worked out in the end. Im getting ready to do my swap soon and cant wait to have a smooth running car again and for good not waiting for a icm, coil, or opti to take a ****.