Clutch dragging?
Yeah that sounds possible. The vibration honestly isn't that bad after replacing the MC. I'm really concerned about the clutch dragging, though. The pilot bushing wouldn't have anything to do with that would it?
Don't know. As stated, if the input shaft is binding on the bushing it could cause the trans to rotate with the clutch depressed. I have no idea what the vibration could be from. I honestly think it all needs to come back out.
Ah I see what you're saying now. Yeah I think you're right. I'm going to have to find the time to pull the transmission out. Again, I appreciate all your help and following me through with this.
I used a jack with a metal plate to lift the transmission. It went in and came out easily with this. I lightly greased the input shaft, but I forgot about the throwout bearing. The TOB did have some kind of oil on it from the manufacture though.
Yeah, there was about a 1/2" gap that I use bolts to draw it in. I don't know if that is a big deal or not. I'm thinking I'm going to invest in a billet steel flywheel, new pilot, and new throwout bearing (already have a new TOB), and take the time to re-do all of this.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
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From: Rochester, NY
I ended up swapping in a bushing afterwords, put a small dab of grease on the inside of it and that made the inputshaft slide right in.
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i have been having a similar problem with my ta, does your clutch slip any? For some reason my car holds 1st-4th but sometimes slips in 5th/6th. You can also feel alot of vibration through pedal and shifter.
Yeah, there was about a 1/2" gap that I use bolts to draw it in. I don't know if that is a big deal or not. I'm thinking I'm going to invest in a billet steel flywheel, new pilot, and new throwout bearing (already have a new TOB), and take the time to re-do all of this.
Next time you put the trans in, I would suggest using a jack that can hold the trans securely in place. Perhaps strap it down to your jack. You want the trans to slide all the way up to the bellhousing. Take your time and don't force anything. It should slide all the way to the bellhousing with very little effort once everything is lined up.
I wrecked a perfectly good pilot bearing that way, it was the first time I had ever taken my tranny out and back in to do a clutch swap so I didn't know any better.
I ended up swapping in a bushing afterwords, put a small dab of grease on the inside of it and that made the inputshaft slide right in.
I ended up swapping in a bushing afterwords, put a small dab of grease on the inside of it and that made the inputshaft slide right in.
It can be. Before you take the bushing out, take pics straight on. I'm curious to see if it's out of round. Also would like to see what the mating surface of the input shaft looks like. If you see any sort of markings on the input shaft where it mates with the bushing, that is a good indication there was too much friction.
Next time you put the trans in, I would suggest using a jack that can hold the trans securely in place. Perhaps strap it down to your jack. You want the trans to slide all the way up to the bellhousing. Take your time and don't force anything. It should slide all the way to the bellhousing with very little effort once everything is lined up.
Next time you put the trans in, I would suggest using a jack that can hold the trans securely in place. Perhaps strap it down to your jack. You want the trans to slide all the way up to the bellhousing. Take your time and don't force anything. It should slide all the way to the bellhousing with very little effort once everything is lined up.
Thank you all for the help!
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Ironically no. I don't remember all the details, as this happened in Spring of '08 and I didn't take any pictures. All I remember is that the input shaft was fine (must be made of some pretty hard steel), and the inside of the bearing was kind of beat up. The main thing that gave it away was that the bearing itself didn't spin nearly as freely as it did before when I forced the tranny in using the bolts to pull it that last 1/2". I could tell when I'd try to spin it with my finger, it would barely move.
The only way I was able to tell something was wrong inside was when I'd have the clutch pushed in at idle (pilot bearing is spinning). I'd feel some very faint vibration in the pedal.
If the car was in gear and already moving, everything felt normal because the clutch was engaged (meaning the engine and input shaft are locked together, spinning at the same rate, and because of this the pilot bearing is still).
The only way I was able to tell something was wrong inside was when I'd have the clutch pushed in at idle (pilot bearing is spinning). I'd feel some very faint vibration in the pedal.
If the car was in gear and already moving, everything felt normal because the clutch was engaged (meaning the engine and input shaft are locked together, spinning at the same rate, and because of this the pilot bearing is still).
Ironically no. I don't remember all the details, as this happened in Spring of '08 and I didn't take any pictures. All I remember is that the input shaft was fine (must be made of some pretty hard steel), and the inside of the bearing was kind of beat up. The main thing that gave it away was that the bearing itself didn't spin nearly as freely as it did before when I forced the tranny in using the bolts to pull it that last 1/2". I could tell when I'd try to spin it with my finger, it would barely move.
The only way I was able to tell something was wrong inside was when I'd have the clutch pushed in at idle (pilot bearing is spinning). I'd feel some very faint vibration in the pedal.
If the car was in gear and already moving, everything felt normal because the clutch was engaged (meaning the engine and input shaft are locked together, spinning at the same rate, and because of this the pilot bearing is still).
The only way I was able to tell something was wrong inside was when I'd have the clutch pushed in at idle (pilot bearing is spinning). I'd feel some very faint vibration in the pedal.
If the car was in gear and already moving, everything felt normal because the clutch was engaged (meaning the engine and input shaft are locked together, spinning at the same rate, and because of this the pilot bearing is still).
I forgot to mention that previous to my clutch install, the original? pilot BEARING was fubar. I didn't even think to see if it damaged the input shaft.
Last edited by user 4556884458; Sep 27, 2011 at 07:51 AM.
I'd go with a bushing. Just hammer it in with a deep well socket (socket wrench side to bushing) that is a larger diameter than the bushing.
How was the bearing fubar? Missing bearings?
How was the bearing fubar? Missing bearings?
There were needle bearings behind the bearing in the crank (hub?). When installing the bushing, does the rounded side face toward the clutch/transmission (like face towards you when installing it)? When I installed this one, the rounded side was facing the transmission.
The inside. A very very thin layer. That is the part that slides back and forth on the input shaft housing. Same with the input shaft splines. It needs to be next to nothing. You don't want it to sling around and end up getting on the clutch disc.
You're the man. I will be doing this not this weekend, but the next weekend. I really appreciate all your help. I'll keep you updated on how it goes when I get the chance to get my hands greasy.