Dyno blues
Didn't see this asked by anyone but your original post said you are running an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator. What is you fuel pressure at: idle with vac and with out vac, and load with vac and with out?
You missed my point completely. Instead of accusing the OP of having a poorly thought out setup that you don't like being the cause of his low HP why not give some constructive advice?? I'm not "Ms. Cleo" the psychic..Lawhead never said he was sarcastic or joking...I don't even think he has a LT1 anymore so his opinions are moot now 
Obviously those results are sub-par, why not try to actually help the OP instead of insult and talk smack? Isn't that the whole damn point of this forum or am I missing something here?
Obviously those results are sub-par, why not try to actually help the OP instead of insult and talk smack? Isn't that the whole damn point of this forum or am I missing something here?Last edited by Lawhead; Oct 9, 2011 at 11:04 PM.
The guy who posted above me was asking about fuel pressure.
Seeing as the OP said the AFR was 12.5 I fail to see much point to the question.
With a 12.5 AFR a fuel delivery problem is pretty unlikely.
Seeing as the OP said the AFR was 12.5 I fail to see much point to the question.
With a 12.5 AFR a fuel delivery problem is pretty unlikely.
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You are dead wrong here pink boy.
We did 411 RWHP with LE2 heads and a 218 duration intake cam through a 6 speed.
The heads have done 440 with a well thought out combo. Just because you dont like them doesnt mean ****. They work.
We did 411 RWHP with LE2 heads and a 218 duration intake cam through a 6 speed.
The heads have done 440 with a well thought out combo. Just because you dont like them doesnt mean ****. They work.
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Fuel pressure at the regulator is 40psi w/o vac. Spent some time this weekdend on it and found the mass air resistors were black so leaned that up. Also pulled the throttle body and cleaned that. Looked inside the manifold and found it is still very clean. Adjusted the valves and retorqued the headers just to make sure they are good. Vehicle idles even better still and drivability improved. Unfortunatly i have honey-do bs to do the next 2 week ends and the track times will have to wait a while. Thanks to everyone for the ideas and quick help.
Exactly. I'll rephrase my opinion- No chance on achieving a genuine 370rwhp through an auto.
Wanna place a little wager my LE2s and auto will make over 370RWHP. Lets say $100 all we have to do is wait until Im done with the new build over the winter. I would do it now but I wont be hitting the dyno until then.
Lol Its not like I can cheat the dyno at Speedinc and that dyno seems right on with the times/mph I have ran. Im just confident it will crack 400 easy. How about Ill pay for the first dyno and back it up with a 2nd dyno. Only thing is if It does break 370 you pay for the second pull. If it doesnt ill pay and give you the hundo.
Take it to the track. Run right around 117mph and I will believe it makes at least 370rwhp.
Someone just PM'd me what looks to be a webcam shot of gregrob behind the keyboard:
Someone just PM'd me what looks to be a webcam shot of gregrob behind the keyboard:
Last edited by SS RRR; Oct 11, 2011 at 12:50 PM.
I never said it wouldn't make decent dyno numbers. Dyno numbers are not what define it as "working" to me....
It can perform well on the dyno and get raped on the street and track, which has been my experience.
Again, you're full of ****, have no life and are just here to cause trouble. This site is purely entertainment value to you.
It's funny how you call me an old coot, you are likely almost double my age and you have nothing better to do than come on here and find something to disagree with. SMH
Go do something productive.