LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 battery junction

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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #21  
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just trying to add a place to get power from.....and not have it hanging off the batt.......LS1s do have one.......but its on the drivers side
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
are the holes round or slotted?
Round.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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it looks like it goes in the holes then slides to the right
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
it looks like it goes in the holes then slides to the right
This is correct. One side slides into what looks like a keyholed slot. The other side drops into a hole and the whole things slides back just a bit until it "latches" into the two holes.

This thing is not designed to be mounted with screws.

As the LS1 cars don't have these slots & holes stamped in the sheet metal, you'll need to fabricate your own way to mount & secure it.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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And The Merv is correct, this was originally for fusable link use, although it can be used for anything. It's kinda silly to butt heads with him, especially when it comes to LT1 stuff.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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I'm not worried about SSDouche..I'm trying to help the guy out that posted the question.

That piece is the junction for the Fuseable Links that supply power to the Chassis. The LS1 stuff doesnt have them cause the Fuse Box actually incorporates high-load Fuses..that's why the power supply bolts to that Fuse Box on the 1998-up cars.

Thanks for the backing Paul, you know as well as others I have hands-on wiring expertise with both.

The Monte Carlo SS is wired with a 1998 Fuse Box..



The S10 is a 1996 Fuse Box with them Fuseable Links, and they are at a junction on the Fire Wall.




I prefer the 1998 setup, but when it comes down to it, it's a matter of what you have at hand and making it work.

Last edited by the_merv; Nov 3, 2011 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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since i have not seen a pic of the space with the junction box removed........just drill 2 holes 2 1/4 apart?
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
since i have not seen a pic of the space with the junction box removed........just drill 2 holes 2 1/4 apart?
Yes. The measurement I gave you is from the center of one hole to the other.
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
And The Merv is correct, this was originally for fusable link use, although it can be used for anything. It's kinda silly to butt heads with him, especially when it comes to LT1 stuff.
LOL. You two really need to educate yourselves on what a fusible link is. Looked up the part number as well and states nothing about it being a fusible link.

Last edited by SS RRR; Nov 4, 2011 at 07:44 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
LOL. You two really need to educate yourselves on what a fusible link is.
Seriously dude...

Is this how you get your post count up?
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
LOL. You two really need to educate yourselves on what a fusible link is. Looked up the part number as well and states nothing about it being a fusible link.
And none of us said it was a fuseable link..we just said it was a junction spot.

You need to educate yourself on reading skills. But we all know this already..

Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Seriously dude...

Is this how you get your post count up?
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
And none of us said it was a fuseable link..we just said it was a junction spot
Actually, even though the OP was correct in the term usage and you had no idea what the OP was stating, you corrected him in stating:

Originally Posted by the_merv
That is the Fuseably Link Junction..what are you trying to build?
It is not a "Fuseably Link Junction." It is a Batterably Junction Baux or Power Distriboutionably Blox. Just trying to correct your terminology. I should have known you would've gone ape **** crazy. Many apologies.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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I wish I had no life like yourself..I'm too busy building custom stuff..no time to nit-pick..
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #34  
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i used less than 2 1/4.......for center spacing........should have used 2 1/8 ........i will have to silicone glue it down......i drilled holes smaller than 1/2
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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It still looks good! It looks "factory"
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 01:58 AM
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I'm trying to figure out what the point of installing it is..what are you trying to build?
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
If you are using the battery as the main power source the block needs to be flipped around. From the position of your picture the battery source should go in the slot that's at the 11 o'clock position. Flipping it around will give you a direct path to the battery.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I'm trying to figure out what the point of installing it is..what are you trying to build?
instead of hanging power leads off of the batt lug..........i can use this
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:11 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
If you are using the battery as the main power source the block needs to be flipped around. From the position of your picture the battery source should go in the slot that's at the 11 o'clock position. Flipping it around will give you a direct path to the battery.
an LT1 i saw in the junk yard had it flipped around......but i like the lid to open from the front and not the rear
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
If you are using the battery as the main power source the block needs to be flipped around. From the position of your picture the battery source should go in the slot that's at the 11 o'clock position. Flipping it around will give you a direct path to the battery.
There is this majical thing that some of us do called bending the wire to fit. It's a bad-*** trick.
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