Clutch options?
#1
Clutch options?
So what is going on in the world with LT1 clutches these days? Is the Street Twin still the top dog?
I don't know what I want to do, the throwout bearing is about twice as loud as it was last month. Current setup is a full metallic six puck disc, modified Hays pressure plate, and SLP billet flywheel. The disc has about 30k on it now, not sure how long a metallic clutch is supposed to last. The flywheel has been surfaced twice, not sure how much has been taken off, being billet and all.
So I'm at the point where if I already have to drop the trans to take care of why ever the throwout bearing is rattling, I'm contemplating changing everything, thoughts?
I don't know what I want to do, the throwout bearing is about twice as loud as it was last month. Current setup is a full metallic six puck disc, modified Hays pressure plate, and SLP billet flywheel. The disc has about 30k on it now, not sure how long a metallic clutch is supposed to last. The flywheel has been surfaced twice, not sure how much has been taken off, being billet and all.
So I'm at the point where if I already have to drop the trans to take care of why ever the throwout bearing is rattling, I'm contemplating changing everything, thoughts?
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Im not sure what power level your at or how you intend to drive it. I had the Ram HDX with boltons and was great untill i put sticky tires on at the track and it took two outings to dust it. It was a great clutch though for the street at boltons level. Im running the Ram Powergrip and im pretty happy with it so far. A little more aggressive to be expected but nothing you couldnt drive on a DD basis just not stop and go rush hour. Comp Clutches are also making some great clutches, do a search on here theres been alot of discussion. If your at pushing the 400+rwhp and beat on it all the time i would look into the Spec 3 its a proven performer and if your 450+ id be looking into the Street Twin.
#3
It's currently making 359rwhp/362tq, I also plan to hit it with a 200 shot through a Nitrous Outlet plate. Have a 12 bolt, drag wheel setup is 15x10 Draglites with Nitto 555r.
Yeah if I press the clutch pedal down 1/3-1/2 way the rattling stops. I know they always rattle but this has definitely increased in noise recently?
Yeah if I press the clutch pedal down 1/3-1/2 way the rattling stops. I know they always rattle but this has definitely increased in noise recently?
#6
On The Tree
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Russell,Kansas
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im running competition clutch's stage 4. so far i really like the clutch has around 4 thousand on it. i havent really beat on it much did a couple burnouts to test the line lock and did a couple rolling start run up's. no dumps on it. holds well and im right around 400 or so as well. i ran specs stage 2 and didnt care for it. i also dd this car
#7
Launching!
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Brookfield IL
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I bought a street twin when my intake leaked and pissed oil on my clutch. This thing has roughly 30k on it and still grabs hard as hell. Never had a problem daily driving it or racing it. Only problem I've had is the slave leaks down internally and I can't seem to find a rebuild kit for it.
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#10
Well I pulled the trigger on the street twin! AC said he didn't have to modify anything though, but I had seen threads from even 2010 about shaving something down for the clutch fork?
Did Mcleod fix this recently or something then?? Any install tips or things I need to watch out for that would be different from any other LT1 clutch?
I almost want to get the bellhousing while I am at it, but damn! $$$$$$$
Did Mcleod fix this recently or something then?? Any install tips or things I need to watch out for that would be different from any other LT1 clutch?
I almost want to get the bellhousing while I am at it, but damn! $$$$$$$