Y-pipe/ oil pan interference
Y-pipe/ oil pan interference So my new 383 is finally installed in the car now after many months of building/preparation, just my luck now I run into a real pain in the ***...my damn y-pipe is hitting my Moroso 7 qt oil pan and won't fit anymore 
Right now the car has Pacesetter mid-tube headers due to clearance/inspection issues (car is lowered, and I would prefer it "appears stock" for inspection). What should I do to get it on the road ASAP as cheaply as possible? Any other Y-pipes that would fit pacesetters? Get a custom Y-pipe made from exhaust shop (any ideas on cost)? I'd rather not get longtubes for the previous reasons as well as cost. Ideas?
Right now the car has Pacesetter mid-tube headers due to clearance/inspection issues (car is lowered, and I would prefer it "appears stock" for inspection). What should I do to get it on the road ASAP as cheaply as possible? Any other Y-pipes that would fit pacesetters? Get a custom Y-pipe made from exhaust shop (any ideas on cost)? I'd rather not get longtubes for the previous reasons as well as cost. Ideas? Im assuming its hitting in the front where the driver side pipe goes in front of the pan?
i had the same issue with my MAc mids, so i got LT and never looked back. you could have the exhaust shop make something should not cost much.
i had the same issue with my MAc mids, so i got LT and never looked back. you could have the exhaust shop make something should not cost much.
Here's a pic of where it's hitting...I guess I'll just get it running with open headers then take it to an exhaust shop, It's going to be ridiculously loud 
Hopefully Johnny Law will leave me alone long enough to get that fixed then get it inspected so I can get the tag renewed 
Unless anybody has a better idea.
Hopefully Johnny Law will leave me alone long enough to get that fixed then get it inspected so I can get the tag renewed Unless anybody has a better idea. Why in the world would you put a longtube-required oil pan on a car using midlength/shorty headers???
Why didn't you mock it up while it was on the engine stand?
The exhaust shop will tell you that you are screwed. Unless they are redneck enough to put an pipe below the crossmember, which any competent shop would argue against.
Change the pan or go with longtubes. Not much choice.high-volume
Again, looks like you chose an oil pan not based on your needs, but on the attitude "aftermarket must be better". I doubt you *need* that pan. I bet a stock pan would work 100% for your application, since any app that would REQUIRE that pan you also would be running longtubes for. Just saying.
And for reference, both of my supercharged LT1s are running midlength AS&M headers and stock oil pans. And that is with a +10% high-volume oil pump on both. I do not run into oiling issues and have never sucked the pan dry, even at sustained 5000-6000 rpm limits at high speeds.
Why didn't you mock it up while it was on the engine stand?
The exhaust shop will tell you that you are screwed. Unless they are redneck enough to put an pipe below the crossmember, which any competent shop would argue against.
Change the pan or go with longtubes. Not much choice.high-volume
Again, looks like you chose an oil pan not based on your needs, but on the attitude "aftermarket must be better". I doubt you *need* that pan. I bet a stock pan would work 100% for your application, since any app that would REQUIRE that pan you also would be running longtubes for. Just saying.
And for reference, both of my supercharged LT1s are running midlength AS&M headers and stock oil pans. And that is with a +10% high-volume oil pump on both. I do not run into oiling issues and have never sucked the pan dry, even at sustained 5000-6000 rpm limits at high speeds.
Why in the world would you put a longtube-required oil pan on a car using midlength/shorty headers???
Why didn't you mock it up while it was on the engine stand?
The exhaust shop will tell you that you are screwed. Unless they are redneck enough to put an pipe below the crossmember, which any competent shop would argue against.
Change the pan or go with longtubes. Not much choice.high-volume
Again, looks like you chose an oil pan not based on your needs, but on the attitude "aftermarket must be better". I doubt you *need* that pan. I bet a stock pan would work 100% for your application, since any app that would REQUIRE that pan you also would be running longtubes for. Just saying.
And for reference, both of my supercharged LT1s are running midlength AS&M headers and stock oil pans. And that is with a +10% high-volume oil pump on both. I do not run into oiling issues and have never sucked the pan dry, even at sustained 5000-6000 rpm limits at high speeds.
Why didn't you mock it up while it was on the engine stand?
The exhaust shop will tell you that you are screwed. Unless they are redneck enough to put an pipe below the crossmember, which any competent shop would argue against.
Change the pan or go with longtubes. Not much choice.high-volume
Again, looks like you chose an oil pan not based on your needs, but on the attitude "aftermarket must be better". I doubt you *need* that pan. I bet a stock pan would work 100% for your application, since any app that would REQUIRE that pan you also would be running longtubes for. Just saying.
And for reference, both of my supercharged LT1s are running midlength AS&M headers and stock oil pans. And that is with a +10% high-volume oil pump on both. I do not run into oiling issues and have never sucked the pan dry, even at sustained 5000-6000 rpm limits at high speeds.
Yea it does have a high volume oil pump and I've heard bad things about using them with stock oil pans. This is a forged 383 that will spin to 6800 RPM...so the oil needs are greater than only spinning to 6k I would imagine. We'll see what the exhaust shop says first...I can't have anything hanging lower than stock now. I really don't want to have to go through putting long tubes on it because they hang so low on my other f-body (99 Firehawk) and the expense....but if it comes down to it, so be it, I'm probably giving up 15-20 HP without them. Trending Topics
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Verdad Gallardo I spin my motors to 7k... I said 5k-6k sustained... time between 6k-7k is pretty short, even in 5th gear, but I still don't suck the pan dry... that is my point.
The only time people will suck a pan dry is when they don't calculate the amount of oil held up top and the amount they need to fill the pan. Sorry, you need more oil in the pan if more oil will sit up top, and no you will not run into windage issues even at idle with more oil in the pan. Rule of thumb is if you have a +10% capacity oil pump you need +10% more oil in the pan. You adjust for that based on how much you figure you compromised drainback, but it isn't much either way.
Hell, both of my motors have screens in the upper end and valley vents to prevent lower-end damage in case of upper end failures, which reduces oil drainback a little and I still don't have problems.
The ONLY time you need any of these increase capacity aftermarket pans is if you are road racing with high sideloads like sustained high-speed curves, and no you will not run into that on the street.
Again, a stock pan will work in over 90-95% of the applications out there. Aftermarket pans won't hurt unless they affect your ability to use the rest of the parts you intend to use. Most here should be adding a rear pan baffle at the oil pump mount to reduce creap of oil into the crankshaft upon launching more than anything else. Next is a good windage tray, like a diamond scrapper. I run both on all my setups.
The only time people will suck a pan dry is when they don't calculate the amount of oil held up top and the amount they need to fill the pan. Sorry, you need more oil in the pan if more oil will sit up top, and no you will not run into windage issues even at idle with more oil in the pan. Rule of thumb is if you have a +10% capacity oil pump you need +10% more oil in the pan. You adjust for that based on how much you figure you compromised drainback, but it isn't much either way.
Hell, both of my motors have screens in the upper end and valley vents to prevent lower-end damage in case of upper end failures, which reduces oil drainback a little and I still don't have problems.
The ONLY time you need any of these increase capacity aftermarket pans is if you are road racing with high sideloads like sustained high-speed curves, and no you will not run into that on the street.
Again, a stock pan will work in over 90-95% of the applications out there. Aftermarket pans won't hurt unless they affect your ability to use the rest of the parts you intend to use. Most here should be adding a rear pan baffle at the oil pump mount to reduce creap of oil into the crankshaft upon launching more than anything else. Next is a good windage tray, like a diamond scrapper. I run both on all my setups.
[QUOTE=95 TA - T
The ONLY time you need any of these increase capacity aftermarket pans is if you are road racing with high sideloads like sustained high-speed curves, and no you will not run into that on the street.
.[/QUOTE]
I better leave it on then because this is more of a track/autocross setup on the car now than drag race...full suspension, poly everything, lowered, big solid swaybars ect. I wouldn't be surprised if if can pull over 1 g on a skidpad...it's a big go-kart. I may want to take it to a road course in the future.
The ONLY time you need any of these increase capacity aftermarket pans is if you are road racing with high sideloads like sustained high-speed curves, and no you will not run into that on the street.
.[/QUOTE]
I better leave it on then because this is more of a track/autocross setup on the car now than drag race...full suspension, poly everything, lowered, big solid swaybars ect. I wouldn't be surprised if if can pull over 1 g on a skidpad...it's a big go-kart. I may want to take it to a road course in the future.
Wow to many people telling you what you did wrong instead of helping. First off LT oil pan? Wtf I have 2 aftermarket pans and neither say anything about LT only.
As for a shop if they are any good they will make you a new y pipe. That's all you need. Instead of having the pipe bend forward, make it like the LT y and have it come back farther and meet in the middle. Cut the flanges off and weld to them to make the new pipe will save some money. It would cost about 120-150 at our shop 3-4hrs top if that.
I have a y pipe for a set of mac mids and a canton pan I made a few years back. Let me pull it out of the Shead and see what kind of flanges are on it. Might work for you.
As for a shop if they are any good they will make you a new y pipe. That's all you need. Instead of having the pipe bend forward, make it like the LT y and have it come back farther and meet in the middle. Cut the flanges off and weld to them to make the new pipe will save some money. It would cost about 120-150 at our shop 3-4hrs top if that.
I have a y pipe for a set of mac mids and a canton pan I made a few years back. Let me pull it out of the Shead and see what kind of flanges are on it. Might work for you.
