LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Taking the Heads Off - any advise?

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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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Default Taking the Heads Off - any advise?

Guys,

I've finally decided that I'm going to pull the heads on the bird (AFR190's) and send them off (along with the Intake) and have LE port the hell outta them to work good with this cam he ground for me a couple years ago. I've done pretty much everything else in this car except removing and replacing the heads. Any tips/tricks you recc would be greatly appreciated. I'm just pulling the heads and intake as the cam does not need to be swapped. Most guides I have found do a cam/head swap, but since I'm doing just heads does the AC comp need to be unbolted? Also, once all done, since we're gonna mill the heads a bit to bump the comp ratio to 11.5 I will need to measure for new push rods. Any tips here to get the right size? Thanks again guys, I'm really looking forward to this as she will really wake up once this is done. The heads should flow 300+/210+ when LE is done with them.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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The one biggest thing I'd suggest is using the buddy system for the moment of removal. Get everything out of the way but leave the banjo bolts on the steam pipe in place. Lift the heads off with the pipe connected- you with one head and a buddy with the other. Carry them to a sheet of cardboard on a workbench together and then work on the bolts there. Saves a lot of grief and lets you attack the banjo bolts easily, upping the likelihood of pulling them off undamaged.

Just the alt may need to come off to give you extra room- AC comp does not need to go anywhere. Get a PR length tool and order PRs to fit. Probably won't change much if you don't get greedy on the shave.

Last edited by Gojira94; Jan 6, 2012 at 08:37 AM. Reason: added comments
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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AC stays, alternator goes and the power steering pump just needs to be unbolted and moved asaide, rear cross-over has to come out also, do that while the heads are on, if you can't get them off cut the tube and make a new cross-over from pipe fittings and rubber hose if you cheap out or spend an arm and a leg for AN fittings on something no one will ever see.

Other then that its very straight forward.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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why would you leave the steam pipe connected? o so it breaks while your removing the heads. what a great idea to give someone who is looking for help.

I would suggest getting some ratcheting wrenches, remove everything needed to get the heads off, Intake,Accessory bracket bolts and bracket,valve covers rockers and pushrods.

now there should be PLENTY of room to get a 15mm ratchet wrench back there and remove one or both of the banjo bolts so you do not damage it. there expensive if you can find them and they can bend crack break easy. Can you do it with them both connected, yes is it a good idea hell no.

I would use a good method to keep all the bolts together as well since there will be a bunch of them. i use a huge magnet try for each part i take off so i know what there for.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:43 PM
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Banjo bolts aren't that bad. 3/8" ratcheting wrench with a shallow 15mm socket and some choice words gets them out.

You'll need to remove the dipstick tube which is worse IMO than the banjo bolts if you're working alone. Don't forget the two bolts on the passenger side accessory bracket holding the head on, you'll need an offset 14mm wrench for one of them.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 96TransAmboosted
why would you leave the steam pipe connected? o so it breaks while your removing the heads. what a great idea to give someone who is looking for help.
Yeah not a good idea. It can easily bend while trying to remove the heads and it is still attached which will make it impossible to put back on.
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