Block Strength?
Block Strength? I am not asking about the strength of the block in general with billions of dollars invested into it; they've already been proven to hold up to some serious power but for my application I want to have some sort of confidence.
My block casting # is 10125327 (LT4 block). I have the stock 4 bolt caps and stock main bolts. I'm looking to turn around 6,900-7,000 RPM (Trickflow 185cc with a 236/244 .608"/.608" 110 LSA on a 357CI motor). On top of that I want to eventually spray a 250 direct port shot.
What do I need to do as far as my main caps/bolts? And would I benefit from a main girdle?
My block casting # is 10125327 (LT4 block). I have the stock 4 bolt caps and stock main bolts. I'm looking to turn around 6,900-7,000 RPM (Trickflow 185cc with a 236/244 .608"/.608" 110 LSA on a 357CI motor). On top of that I want to eventually spray a 250 direct port shot.
What do I need to do as far as my main caps/bolts? And would I benefit from a main girdle?
and am I going to have issues with a half filled block driving around on the road occasionally? (Won't ever be in bumper to bumper traffic but I might hit a red light or two and a couple of stop signs).
and you really think I need head studs?
I've never built a serious N/A motor or nitrous motor so this is all a learning experience.
Have callies compstar h-beam 5.7 rods, probe srs pistons with the .240" down top ring land and .240" deck thickness, and JE HNS series rings.
I've never built a serious N/A motor or nitrous motor so this is all a learning experience.
Have callies compstar h-beam 5.7 rods, probe srs pistons with the .240" down top ring land and .240" deck thickness, and JE HNS series rings.
Is this a bare block or already assembled motor? I was assuming a good 4340 rotating assembly. Some have used the stock crank with good success, but I personally wouldn't in this application. Half fill only applies if the block hasn't been machined yet as it will move things around. You won't have any problems with the half fill, I've had my block filled for awhile.
I personally run head studs... do you need them? Well it depends what defines "need." Then again if the motor is together then i'd say stick with whatever it was machined with.
Motor wasn't machined yet, I've been collecting parts.
Have my rods, pistons, rings, flexplate, stock crank, main caps and main bolts, lifters, spider retainer/dogbones.
As of right now it is not too late cause none of the bolts or machining was done. I'd ratehr do it right the first time.
Have my rods, pistons, rings, flexplate, stock crank, main caps and main bolts, lifters, spider retainer/dogbones.
As of right now it is not too late cause none of the bolts or machining was done. I'd ratehr do it right the first time.
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Can I run main studs on a stock 4 bolt block (If I need machining to be a studded 4 bolt I'll do it)? I thought I was limited to bolts unless it was splayed to a 4 bolt main.
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Verdad Gallardo How about this, can you please just give me part numbers for the main studs and head studs you think I should use? It would save me a lot of aggravation and you'd know better than me!
234-4401 is head studs.... not mandatory. Probably not needed as the stock crank will probably break before you start pushing gaskets.
234-5601 is what I think we used on the mains, maybe someone else will chime in. I'd definitely do studs on the mains!
234-5601 is what I think we used on the mains, maybe someone else will chime in. I'd definitely do studs on the mains!
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From: CT/NJ
I'd skip the 1/2 fill but otherwise do as Wicked94Z posted. IMO, if the block is going to be a problem, it will do it at or close to the top of the bores, not down at the bottom. Either way, not going to be a problem with the power range you are asking about.
studs on bottom with stock caps should just mean a line hone which should be done even if you were just replacing the bolts with ARP.
Studs on top are again just new fasteners though they should know before they bore it so they use them with the toque plates.
Why 357? Does the block need .040" over? You are worried about block strength but then going larger than usual on the bore??????? Why a 5.700 rod with the short stroke?
Is this a build you are starting with a clean slate or did you get a deal on parts you are making work?
Studs on top are again just new fasteners though they should know before they bore it so they use them with the toque plates.
Why 357? Does the block need .040" over? You are worried about block strength but then going larger than usual on the bore??????? Why a 5.700 rod with the short stroke?
Is this a build you are starting with a clean slate or did you get a deal on parts you are making work?
studs on bottom with stock caps should just mean a line hone which should be done even if you were just replacing the bolts with ARP.
Studs on top are again just new fasteners though they should know before they bore it so they use them with the toque plates.
Why 357? Does the block need .040" over? You are worried about block strength but then going larger than usual on the bore??????? Why a 5.700 rod with the short stroke?
Is this a build you are starting with a clean slate or did you get a deal on parts you are making work?
Studs on top are again just new fasteners though they should know before they bore it so they use them with the toque plates.
Why 357? Does the block need .040" over? You are worried about block strength but then going larger than usual on the bore??????? Why a 5.700 rod with the short stroke?
Is this a build you are starting with a clean slate or did you get a deal on parts you are making work?
half fill is not necessary......im making over the power you will and spinning much more rpm with no block/core shift/twist.......id for sure run main studs and if a 250 shot is in the future id also run head studs to rule out chances of an issue......stock crank will most likely handle it but i always tend to lean in the era of caution.....id run an aftermarket budget 4340 crank such as an eagle or scat be more than plenty for what you're doing.........also if you are looking to strenghten up the bottom end replace the three middle main caps with billet caps...you will have to check the main line anyway with the new studs and if it requires a line hone the new caps wont affect your machine shop price much if any at all...middle caps go for 160 from howards cams which IMO are some of the best caps on the market...heres the caps on my block....its a stock 4 bolt block no fill with the billet caps.....saw 4 years of use as a 355 making ~520fwhp @7000rpm and has seen 3 years of use so far with my 385 making north of 650hp at 8000+rpm....
.be supprised how much that will reduce main line and bore twist it helps to tie in the bottom of the motor alot ive had great luck with them...also a good balance <.5g on the RA will help as well....less vibration is less stress on the block.....good luck!!
.be supprised how much that will reduce main line and bore twist it helps to tie in the bottom of the motor alot ive had great luck with them...also a good balance <.5g on the RA will help as well....less vibration is less stress on the block.....good luck!!
Last edited by quik95lt1; Jan 25, 2012 at 08:24 AM.
Even if making the same power N/A as a nitrous hit, it shouldn't be necessarily compared. Force from cylinder pressure is instantaneous when nitrous is introduced. Not saying the block needs to be filled, but I would go with billet caps and ARP fasteners. Stock crank is brutally strong.
