Nothing wrong with 100k on a stock bottom end, especially for what your intended purpose is going to be! 
Bottom end build
Bottom end build Car is a 94z. What would be a good bottom end combo? Car has a little over 100k miles on stock bottom end and I havent had any problems with it so far. What im looking for is a stout street car that ill take to the track on the weekends. Car already has prted and polished factory heads with 2.02 1.60 valves, and the intake was ported with the heads. 306 cam, and bolt ons. 3600 stall and 430 gear. I plan on getting a custom cam for it to ditch the 306. Would like to keep the build around $2500 or less.
Car is a 94z. What would be a good bottom end combo? Car has a little over 100k miles on stock bottom end and I havent had any problems with it so far. What im looking for is a stout street car that ill take to the track on the weekends. Car already has prted and polished factory heads with 2.02 1.60 valves, and the intake was ported with the heads. 306 cam, and bolt ons. 3600 stall and 430 gear. I plan on getting a custom cam for it to ditch the 306. Would like to keep the build around $2500 or less.
Well my goal is to have a mid to low 11 second street car n/aon pump gas at 3600#. Car runs mid 12s consistant now and its not impressive to me at all but im thinking the cam is hoding it back alot which is why i want another cam better for my set up.
My LT1 has 147,000 miles on it and it's getting a heads and cam package. Many folks have done this to a correctly running motor. I will be in the mid-low 11's @ 3500# under 6600rpm which would be safe for the stock used bottom if it is good to start with.
Mid 12's with your mods seems very far off the mark. Something may be wrong there. I was running high 12's with exhaust manifolds on my stock 147,000 mile motor backed up by an overkill clutch and a 12-bolt with slicks and some quality suspension pieces. Do a compression check maybe. You might be on the right thoughts tho about a fresh bottom end. Myself, I'm looking into some Ohio Crankshaft h-beam forged rods and some forged SRP pistons for future 350-355 bottom build. The stock crankshaft should be fine for a strong low 11 street car.
Mid 12's with your mods seems very far off the mark. Something may be wrong there. I was running high 12's with exhaust manifolds on my stock 147,000 mile motor backed up by an overkill clutch and a 12-bolt with slicks and some quality suspension pieces. Do a compression check maybe. You might be on the right thoughts tho about a fresh bottom end. Myself, I'm looking into some Ohio Crankshaft h-beam forged rods and some forged SRP pistons for future 350-355 bottom build. The stock crankshaft should be fine for a strong low 11 street car.
So a good set of rods and pistons should be all i need then? Obviously ill be taking the block to the machine shop to make sure its all good. And ill be doing a compression check on it before I start pulling it apart. I would like to run in the 11s without turning the motor at high rpms.
So a good set of rods and pistons should be all i need then? Obviously ill be taking the block to the machine shop to make sure its all good. And ill be doing a compression check on it before I start pulling it apart. I would like to run in the 11s without turning the motor at high rpms.
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I rebuilt my bottom end with the complete stock rotating assembly, including the pistons. The only non-stock items are ARP rod bolts and a Milodon oil pump. The bores were in good shape and were trued up with honing for the new rings. With the budget you mentioned, maybe that's the route you should consider. Stock parts are high quality. The bigger factor is the machine work and assembly skills.
Well I was looking at rotating assemblies but the more I thought about it the more I was thinking it wasnt necessary. I think getting rid of the cam I have now the car will pick up a lot by itself. And if the stock crank and rods will be fine then the money I save from getting new ones will go to my suspension mods I want to do.
This was a very thorough and competent rebuild, ie. I had professional help!
Rods re-sized, line honed, every clearance checked, etc. So I wouldn't recommend taking just any stock shortblock rebuild to this rpm.
What cam are you going with? If you're still undecided, I recommend AI's 226 cam; capable of 400+ rwhp at a more conservative rpm.
Hows the rest of the slip look. Mph 60ft 1/8.
The best its 60ft is a 1.82 with a 8.17 in the 8th. Car just feels like is has no low end power and im sure that's just the cam because when im in higher rpm it pulls good but when I go into 3rd it wants to fall on its face but I think its running out of fuel so I haven't ran it since so I don't hurt anything. Im probably going to go with an AI cam. But I plan not to spin the motor real high.
if you want to put rods in it you can but i ran my 355 with stock crank stock rods and forged pistons for 4 years spinning 6800-7000rpm.........ran fine never had an issue and made prob a bit north of what your making......car was 3450lbs and ran 11.4x's at 120+ in 1500ft DA or so.....
I don't know about you guys but for a little more than the cost of resizing stock rods and adding ARP rod bolts I would buy a set of Scat 6" ProComp 4340 forged I beam rods with the larger 7/16 capscrews and get the Mahle or SRP forged flat top pistons and recondition the stock crank then add ARP head and main bolts/studs and know my bottom end is stout.
What MPH are you running the mid-12s at?
IMO the heads and cam are your problem not the shortblock.
You will spend you entire budget very easily doing a good stock crank 355 shortblock and not have the cash to redo the valvetrain. Put it together with what you have and you might gain .1 or so.
IMO the heads and cam are your problem not the shortblock.
You will spend you entire budget very easily doing a good stock crank 355 shortblock and not have the cash to redo the valvetrain. Put it together with what you have and you might gain .1 or so.