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#12
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Sometimes when I'm at idle, my volt meter shows pretty low... and if I have my blinker on it blinks really slow... figured this might have something to do with the alternator. When I'm driving it reads normal, and its not low everytime at idle, but I had been wondering what would make it low ever...
#14
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I have plans to remove the intake and clean it, when I get around to that, I'll go head and remove the under drive pulley and replace it with the stock one. I also plan on taking care of that leaky timing cover, I already feel I know whats causing it... I found an air foil in the TB and removed that, I'm waiting on a new elbow because mine is covered in silicone and still has visible holes... slowly taking her apart and cleaning her up to see what she does by herself... if things are good then heads and cam here I come If things dont look good, then we'll build a motor on the side and put it in when this thing goes.
#15
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Take off the stock pulley, Ive run a lightweight aluminum underdrive pulley for the past 4 years and not had a single problem, and I spin my motor to 6100 rpm. Ditch the stocker, use the underdrive, it revs noticeably faster without that giant hunk of metal hanging off the front.
#16
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Sometimes when I'm at idle, my volt meter shows pretty low... and if I have my blinker on it blinks really slow... figured this might have something to do with the alternator. When I'm driving it reads normal, and its not low everytime at idle, but I had been wondering what would make it low ever...
#17
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I have plans to remove the intake and clean it, when I get around to that, I'll go head and remove the under drive pulley and replace it with the stock one. I also plan on taking care of that leaky timing cover, I already feel I know whats causing it... I found an air foil in the TB and removed that, I'm waiting on a new elbow because mine is covered in silicone and still has visible holes... slowly taking her apart and cleaning her up to see what she does by herself... if things are good then heads and cam here I come If things dont look good, then we'll build a motor on the side and put it in when this thing goes.
#18
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Dude this is totally false. Like I said, Ive been running a small underdrive pulley and never changed my alternator pulley and I have NEVER EVER EVER had a problem. Your battery is not going to ******* die. Take off the damn stock pulley and run just the underdrive, and it will be FINE.
#19
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Take off the stock pulley, Ive run a lightweight aluminum underdrive pulley for the past 4 years and not had a single problem, and I spin my motor to 6100 rpm. Ditch the stocker, use the underdrive, it revs noticeably faster without that giant hunk of metal hanging off the front.
This is a vital part for engine longevity because GM spent X amount of dollars to put it on the engine. If it were really not needed, it would not have come on the engine from GM.
I suggest that the OP keep it as is or simply remove the piggyback pulley and use the OEM piece. If he is still wanting to reduce mass and still have the functionality of the crank dampener, then look into the ASP underdrive dampener which is much lighter than stock and much cleaner in appearance.
Above all I think there are very little gains to be had by using either type of underdrive pulley or dampener.
#20
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Dude this is totally false. Like I said, Ive been running a small underdrive pulley and never changed my alternator pulley and I have NEVER EVER EVER had a problem. Your battery is not going to ******* die. Take off the damn stock pulley and run just the underdrive, and it will be FINE.
It does depend on your driving habits. If you drive in stop/go conditions where there is not enough voltage to properly charge the battery then the battery is going to eventually ******* die. M6 cars did not have a battery ******* dying problem as much as the autos had a battery ******* dying problem.