Need stall help with this cam
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Indiana
Need stall help with this cam I built a LT1 383 Stroker using this cam from Erson and was gonna get the stall for the 460Le. What stall would go well with this cam and Im thinking of goin with 343 or 373 gears. Im just trying to put a good combination together. its a 96 LT1 from a Firebird. oh and its going in a 71 Nova
Any help and suggestions is appreciated
Thanks Calvin
Any help and suggestions is appreciated
Thanks Calvin
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Im gona say 4k. I went with a 3800 when my car was stock and wished id went bigger. Why suck small cam for a stroker tho?
I read as much as I could about the 3600, but I thought that cam was big enough should I have went bigger I went with what I thought would be mainly street-able (sleeper) , what cam would you suggest ? I was advised by Erson that with that cam I would be looking at high 300 low 400 in HP so thats why I chose this cam.
Last edited by Cdub270; Feb 28, 2012 at 06:05 PM.
I apologize I just now saw you were doing a Nova.... The rear axle I would use is from a '96 up Ford Explorer they come with 3.55,3.73 and 4.10s and most are LSD equipped. You may need to cut and reweld the spring pearches to fit your leaf pack.
You can pick up an 8.8 posi-disk for 150.00--200.00 on avg. Get the rotors and axles redrilled or use Ford wheels out back. More advanantages are:
3.25" thick axle tubes
Heavy Duty large truck bearings
31-spline axles
Can't really ask for more at this price. Oh and you will need a conversion u joint and possibly may need to shorten the Novas driveshaft..
3.25" thick axle tubes
Heavy Duty large truck bearings
31-spline axles
Can't really ask for more at this price. Oh and you will need a conversion u joint and possibly may need to shorten the Novas driveshaft..
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
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From: Indiana
I was told buy Erson that with that cam I should be able to make at least high 300 to low 400 in HP and that the recommended stall is between 2200 and 2500 but I was thinking a 2800 myself but 3600 is what most here is using. so I guess I have to check the funds and see.
I was told buy Erson that with that cam I should be able to make at least high 300 to low 400 in HP and that the recommended stall is between 2200 and 2500 but I was thinking a 2800 myself but 3600 is what most here is using. so I guess I have to check the funds and see.
What heads are u running? Im no pro but with a stroker id wana run alteast somthin in the 230s intake and 240s exhaust. Im runnin a 236/244 in my 355. Call ai or le they will tell ya what you need. On them tellin you to run a 2200 stall. Heck stock is 1800.
There are a number of issues with listening to cam grinders on this stuff. One is they rarely take into account what the LT1 intake does to the rpm band. You understand you are going to likely still see 6500rpm out of that cam right? Well that is assuming you did something with the heads if you are using unported stock heads it will likely choke sooner.
Due to the rpm range thing why don't you tell us what springs they spec'd because they can get that wrong if they assume too low an rpm range.
Then the stall thing I would say is antiquated 3 speed non-lockup thinking. These days with the 4L60E a LOT of guys with stock cammed Caprices are daily driving 28-3200 9.5" converters. Of course if you are going to do this wrong and put a 12" converter in it then stay about 2400 as good 12" don't really go any higher.
It really is a little worrysome that you didn't mention the heads, please tell us you had them ported.
Due to the rpm range thing why don't you tell us what springs they spec'd because they can get that wrong if they assume too low an rpm range.
Then the stall thing I would say is antiquated 3 speed non-lockup thinking. These days with the 4L60E a LOT of guys with stock cammed Caprices are daily driving 28-3200 9.5" converters. Of course if you are going to do this wrong and put a 12" converter in it then stay about 2400 as good 12" don't really go any higher.
It really is a little worrysome that you didn't mention the heads, please tell us you had them ported.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Indiana
[/QUOTE]It really is a little worrysome that you didn't mention the heads, please tell us you had them ported.[/QUOTE]
I haven't had them ported yet but that can still be done, but they are the stock aluminum heads which should flow pretty good from what I understand.
I haven't had them ported yet but that can still be done, but they are the stock aluminum heads which should flow pretty good from what I understand.
Power comes from airflow, 100% of airflow comes and goes through the heads as controlled by the cam. The displacement will gain you peanuts, you increased displacement about 10% rounding up. We had this discussion just the other day and comparing a 350 and a 383 with the same ported GM heads the 383 made 7.5% more power BUT had 9degrees more intake duration on the cam and had at least a point of compression over the 350.
The ported heads/cam 350 made 425rwhp the 383 made 455rwhp and Erson is telling you maybe 400fwhp does this put into perspective just how bad a decision it would be to put together a motor with as cast heads?
Long as you got so much other bad advise on your build let's ask about the crank. Please tell us it is forged and balanced by the machineshop.
The ported heads/cam 350 made 425rwhp the 383 made 455rwhp and Erson is telling you maybe 400fwhp does this put into perspective just how bad a decision it would be to put together a motor with as cast heads?
Long as you got so much other bad advise on your build let's ask about the crank. Please tell us it is forged and balanced by the machineshop.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Power comes from airflow, 100% of airflow comes and goes through the heads as controlled by the cam. The displacement will gain you peanuts, you increased displacement about 10% rounding up. We had this discussion just the other day and comparing a 350 and a 383 with the same ported GM heads the 383 made 7.5% more power BUT had 9degrees more intake duration on the cam and had at least a point of compression over the 350.
The ported heads/cam 350 made 425rwhp the 383 made 455rwhp and Erson is telling you maybe 400fwhp does this put into perspective just how bad a decision it would be to put together a motor with as cast heads?
Long as you got so much other bad advise on your build let's ask about the crank. Please tell us it is forged and balanced by the machineshop.
The ported heads/cam 350 made 425rwhp the 383 made 455rwhp and Erson is telling you maybe 400fwhp does this put into perspective just how bad a decision it would be to put together a motor with as cast heads?
Long as you got so much other bad advise on your build let's ask about the crank. Please tell us it is forged and balanced by the machineshop.
with a small block. Generic local porting wont get you great results but in the hands of someone skilled stock heads ported can result in huge gains without driveability compromise.
If the stock big block cars are 70s stuff you will probably cover them without porting the heads BUT the average heads/cam LT1 car will walk you like you hit the wrong pedal.
I have run against stroker cars that cheaped out or fell for marketing hype on heads and left them feeling a little bitter about the situation.
If the stock big block cars are 70s stuff you will probably cover them without porting the heads BUT the average heads/cam LT1 car will walk you like you hit the wrong pedal.
I have run against stroker cars that cheaped out or fell for marketing hype on heads and left them feeling a little bitter about the situation.
