help a noob out
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: IL
help a noob out planning on doing a plugs/wires change soon, ordered msd wires and already have these
ngk tr5's (yes i have two boxes)
my question is do i need to gap them or can i just put them in right out of the box?
also i heard the lt1 is a huge pita to do this can anyone point me in the direction of a write up or diagram or really anything helpful?
ngk tr5's (yes i have two boxes)
my question is do i need to gap them or can i just put them in right out of the box?
also i heard the lt1 is a huge pita to do this can anyone point me in the direction of a write up or diagram or really anything helpful?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
The NGKs come pre-gapped but I still checked them with my gauge before I did them.
And yes they are a pain the *** for sure. you'll be bleeding most likely when you are done. I've never done them with the stock manifolds though, I had my Longtubes when I changed mine the first time. I made a custom socket to get to some of them, I just took a regular plug socket and cut it down to 1/3 its size, hollowed out the square hole and slid it onto the plugs and used a ratchet wrench. It's also easier to do this under the car rather than on top.
And yes they are a pain the *** for sure. you'll be bleeding most likely when you are done. I've never done them with the stock manifolds though, I had my Longtubes when I changed mine the first time. I made a custom socket to get to some of them, I just took a regular plug socket and cut it down to 1/3 its size, hollowed out the square hole and slid it onto the plugs and used a ratchet wrench. It's also easier to do this under the car rather than on top.
Lt1s can be as difficult as one makes it to be, changing plugs wont be that difficult....
Pass.. side
Remove alternator to gain access to #2 plug
Drivers side
Does not pose to be a challenge
Pass.. side
Remove alternator to gain access to #2 plug
Drivers side
Does not pose to be a challenge
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: IL
The NGKs come pre-gapped but I still checked them with my gauge before I did them.
And yes they are a pain the *** for sure. you'll be bleeding most likely when you are done. I've never done them with the stock manifolds though, I had my Longtubes when I changed mine the first time. I made a custom socket to get to some of them, I just took a regular plug socket and cut it down to 1/3 its size, hollowed out the square hole and slid it onto the plugs and used a ratchet wrench. It's also easier to do this under the car rather than on top.
And yes they are a pain the *** for sure. you'll be bleeding most likely when you are done. I've never done them with the stock manifolds though, I had my Longtubes when I changed mine the first time. I made a custom socket to get to some of them, I just took a regular plug socket and cut it down to 1/3 its size, hollowed out the square hole and slid it onto the plugs and used a ratchet wrench. It's also easier to do this under the car rather than on top.
This response gives me hope but some searching i did made it sound like a huge pita, removing part after part...
I have never had to remove anything to change plugs. Its a 30 min job, some plugs come out the top, some out the bottom. You will figure it out once you start working on it. I use a standard 5/8" plug socket, a ratchet, an extension, and whatever size wrench that fits on the end of the plug socket. Some plugs you can use a ratchet on, others you can't.
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a noob to a noob, dont loose confidence when you pass that 3 hr mark your talking about. I have very little mechanical experience and im learning day by day, took me over 6hrs. Do yourself a favor and get you some different size ratchets and extensions, a wobble extension. But give yourself credit that your doing the job yourself learning, and saving tons of money
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
I have a stock exhaust and changed the plugs last fall. Drivers side is a breeze, but the passengers side took a while. I'm assuming you have a stock exhaust too, so I'll give you some advice: Taking out both the alternator and starter helped a bit. When you reach your hand in there to put in plug #8 (from the bottom), be prepared to jam your hand beyond what feels uncomfortable. The position your body is in also makes a big difference in getting enough leverage.
I remember cylinder 4 being a PITA because of that EGR pipe that wraps around under the engine as well. Your arms are going to be pretty cut up, but you'll feel like a badass. Good luck.
I remember cylinder 4 being a PITA because of that EGR pipe that wraps around under the engine as well. Your arms are going to be pretty cut up, but you'll feel like a badass. Good luck.
I have a stock exhaust and changed the plugs last fall. Drivers side is a breeze, but the passengers side took a while. I'm assuming you have a stock exhaust too, so I'll give you some advice: Taking out both the alternator and starter helped a bit. When you reach your hand in there to put in plug #8 (from the bottom), be prepared to jam your hand beyond what feels uncomfortable. The position your body is in also makes a big difference in getting enough leverage.
I remember cylinder 4 being a PITA because of that EGR pipe that wraps around under the engine as well. Your arms are going to be pretty cut up, but you'll feel like a badass. Good luck.
I remember cylinder 4 being a PITA because of that EGR pipe that wraps around under the engine as well. Your arms are going to be pretty cut up, but you'll feel like a badass. Good luck.
Took me 7 hrs on the 97 with stock manifolds to do plugs and wires with routing the wires through the stock locations and takes about 3 hrs just taking my time with LT's. Short socket with 6 point hex on the back and a 3/4 box wrench makes it so much easier. I do some from the top and others from the bottom on both sides.
If you have LT's usually your best bet is to get #'s 6 and 8 from underneath with the starter off. Just make sure the plug socket is securely on the plug before torquing it loose or tight to ensure the porcelain does not crack. I've found using a wrench on the end of a plug socket works best on most plugs.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Fort Riley, Kansas
I'm going to go ahead and do plugs and wires friday, I'll try to keep track of time... I have stock manifolds, so this will be fun. I've already done the o2s, and have pulled random plugs before, so I have an idea of what I'm getting into.
If you have LT's usually your best bet is to get #'s 6 and 8 from underneath with the starter off. Just make sure the plug socket is securely on the plug before torquing it loose or tight to ensure the porcelain does not crack. I've found using a wrench on the end of a plug socket works best on most plugs.
I like to pull the stupid rubber bushing out of the spark plug socket before installing plugs. Too many times I've screwed around for 20 minutes getting the perfect angle and the plug started and all the way in then you cant get the socket off it because of the damn rubber piece.