permatex thread sealant cure time?
permatex thread sealant cure time? I installed my heads the other day, got the bolts covered in sealant and finger tight. I had to run off due to a family matter. Yesterday I returned and Torqued them yesterday. I'm worried about the set up time of the thread sealant. It claims to remain pliable on the bottle. Should I untorque the bolts and add new sealant, or should I be fine as is?
You will likely be just fine, but being as **** as I am about it I wouldn't chance it. Since they are all finger tight just pull them out one by one, clean them up, and re-apply.
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Sounds like he already torqued them up, Joe.
If you are using Permatex thread sealant, then their tech documentation indicates you can make adjustments up to 24 hours without breaking the seal.
Sounds like you torqued them within 24 hours of application, so you should be okay. Head bolts aren't anywhere near as finicky as head studs. I'd consider using GM cooling system sealing tabs if you're really worried about it -- rather than disturb the torque you've already applied.
If you are using Permatex thread sealant, then their tech documentation indicates you can make adjustments up to 24 hours without breaking the seal.
Sounds like you torqued them within 24 hours of application, so you should be okay. Head bolts aren't anywhere near as finicky as head studs. I'd consider using GM cooling system sealing tabs if you're really worried about it -- rather than disturb the torque you've already applied.
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; May 2, 2012 at 07:39 AM.
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GM put them in some cars from the factory -- they work great at stopping small leaks. Think they were originally engineered to stop leaks due to casting flaws in Cadillacs (thus the nickname), but have since been used as a bandaid for all sorts of poor assembly practices. They aren't supposed to hurt the radiator or heater core.
This is not the same thing as that liquid stop leak you find at the local parts store. I wouldn't use that stuff -- it's nasty crap. Some even opt to drain their cooling systems after using the GM tabs.
Up to you. If you decide to remove the bolts one-at-a-time to reapply sealant, try to use something long and thin to apply sealant to the female threads in the block in addition to the bolt threads -- that'll force sealant into the threads as you tighten the bolt. Sealant otherwise tends to get wiped out of the bolt threads as you screw it in.
My only concern with reapplying sealant is disturbing the head gasket (that torque sequence is used for a reason), but I've removed and reapplied sealant to a few leaking head studs before to no ill effect. You'll have to retorque your head bolts after a few heat cycles anyway.
