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-   -   4 Barrel TB guys inside please... (https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1545462-4-barrel-tb-guys-inside-please.html)

Puck 05-09-2012 10:59 PM

4 Barrel TB guys inside please...
 
What throttle cable setup are you guys running? I had part numbers and everything ages ago but lost them with a reformat. Of course search is useless as well. Going on an ACCEL 4150 if that makes a difference.

I know FastFatBoy and OutlawZ are both using Lokar cables, but don't have the part number. Will the long universal one work? Are you reusing the ends of the stock cable?

Part numbers on the cable and bracket would be awesome...I'll probably just snag the Summit bracket and trim as needed since its cheap, but if there is a better one that works out of the box I'd run that.

Also looks like the Procharger hat is the most popular, unless anyone knows of a cheaper one that won't sacrifice performance. As long as it fits without ditching wipers then I'd run it...it is a street car after all :lol:.

Thanks guys.

OutlawZ 05-10-2012 02:55 AM

Hmmmm lemme see.... I can't specifically remember the exact length that I used. I think it was like somewhere in the 18" area... It really doesn't travel very far. If you are close on adjustment i think they are trimmable as well.... Where does your 4 barrel end up? Dead center of the intake? If so somewhere in the area of 18-20" I think will do the trick.... You don't really reuse the ends. On your gas pedal you'll have to reuse the little clip that holds it onto the pedal. Run it up thru the firewall to the back of the throttle bracket, leave yourself about a inch inch and a half of flex and then mark that spot. I trimmed the sleeve that the cable rides in at that point. Then the bracket/cable assy has a double nut lock feature to lock it to the bracket. Then the cable runs out to the 4 barrel throttle arm. Then you put the end on the cable at that point and use the small allen head bolt to secure it. It clips onto the throttle arm using a ball/socket thingy..... not much to it once you get all the parts and look at them. Lightbulb will come on after a few minutes.... :D

Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1/panel002.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1/panel003.jpg

Puck 05-10-2012 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by OutlawZ (Post 16295030)
Hmmmm lemme see.... I can't specifically remember the exact length that I used. I think it was like somewhere in the 18" area... It really doesn't travel very far. If you are close on adjustment i think they are trimmable as well.... Where does your 4 barrel end up? Dead center of the intake? If so somewhere in the area of 18-20" I think will do the trick.... You don't really reuse the ends. On your gas pedal you'll have to reuse the little clip that holds it onto the pedal. Run it up thru the firewall to the back of the throttle bracket, leave yourself about a inch inch and a half of flex and then mark that spot. I trimmed the sleeve that the cable rides in at that point. Then the bracket/cable assy has a double nut lock feature to lock it to the bracket. Then the cable runs out to the 4 barrel throttle arm. Then you put the end on the cable at that point and use the small allen head bolt to secure it. It clips onto the throttle arm using a ball/socket thingy..... not much to it once you get all the parts and look at them. Lightbulb will come on after a few minutes.... :D

Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....

Awesome, thanks a ton.
The tb has a port on it that I plan to run a remote map to, and will tap a 1" spacer for the fuel pressure vac line. If 1" is too tall then I'll mill it until it fits...it will be close lol.

Tony Shepherd 05-10-2012 11:13 AM

I used a Lokar cable and cut it to desired length. I do recommend drilling a hole through your throttle pedal arm lower than the stock hole to change the pivot ratio.

Puck 05-10-2012 05:09 PM


Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd (Post 16296033)
I used a Lokar cable and cut it to desired length. I do recommend drilling a hole through your throttle pedal arm lower than the stock hole to change the pivot ratio.

Thanks, I'll look out for that as well.

OutlawZ 05-11-2012 02:46 AM

yeah i have a remote map bolted to my firewall.... I don't have a vacuum line going to my FPR tho..... at least in that pic i don't... LOL

tt383lt1 05-11-2012 04:15 AM


Originally Posted by OutlawZ (Post 16295030)
Hmmmm lemme see.... I can't specifically remember the exact length that I used. I think it was like somewhere in the 18" area... It really doesn't travel very far. If you are close on adjustment i think they are trimmable as well.... Where does your 4 barrel end up? Dead center of the intake? If so somewhere in the area of 18-20" I think will do the trick.... You don't really reuse the ends. On your gas pedal you'll have to reuse the little clip that holds it onto the pedal. Run it up thru the firewall to the back of the throttle bracket, leave yourself about a inch inch and a half of flex and then mark that spot. I trimmed the sleeve that the cable rides in at that point. Then the bracket/cable assy has a double nut lock feature to lock it to the bracket. Then the cable runs out to the 4 barrel throttle arm. Then you put the end on the cable at that point and use the small allen head bolt to secure it. It clips onto the throttle arm using a ball/socket thingy..... not much to it once you get all the parts and look at them. Lightbulb will come on after a few minutes.... :D

Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1/panel002.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1/panel003.jpg


im not trying to hi jack this thread i have some question. what intake manifold are those? and would you use a lt1 throttle body or would you use one like yours.

im thinking of going with a 4 barrel manifold next year and i figure this is be the spot to ask
and does it matter performance wise with FI compaired to nitrous on the lt1 manifolds

Puck 05-11-2012 07:36 AM


Originally Posted by tt383lt1 (Post 16298903)
im not trying to hi jack this thread i have some question. what intake manifold are those? and would you use a lt1 throttle body or would you use one like yours.

im thinking of going with a 4 barrel manifold next year and i figure this is be the spot to ask
and does it matter performance wise with FI compaired to nitrous on the lt1 manifolds

The most popular single planes are the Vic JR and SuperVics, either native EFI versions or converted SBC ones.

You can run an LT1 throttle body using an elbow and keep the stock throttle cable. I just sold a badass one on here.

No clue on how much better it is on a boosted build, but big shots of nitrous get better cylinder distribution the the stock intake. It also helps feed stroker NA builds that spin over 7K.

the_merv 05-14-2012 10:09 PM

Not LTx, but still a EFI setup..;)


Edelbrock 3878 4-Barrel TB, 1000 CFM, stock GM Throttle Cable.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...SS/VICJR-1.jpg

Puck 05-14-2012 10:32 PM


Originally Posted by the_merv (Post 16312523)
Not LTx, but still a EFI setup..;)


Edelbrock 3878 4-Barrel TB, 1000 CFM, stock GM Throttle Cable.

I'm sure that cable is a lot shorter then a stock LT1 cable. Think it would be possible to just trim a stocker on the pedal side and use it??? If its not safe I'd spend the 50 bucks on a Lokar, but if its possible then I might try it.

Think I'll take a look at it tomorrow morning, unless anyone already knows its not possible...which it probably isn't, or else one of you guys probably would have done it.

the_merv 05-14-2012 10:36 PM

Or you can go to the junkyard like I did and snag one from a 80's truck..;)

Puck 05-14-2012 11:29 PM


Originally Posted by the_merv (Post 16312650)
Or you can go to the junkyard like I did and snag one from a 80's truck..;)

Damn thats a good idea LOL. So simple that I never thought of it...I have a killer Pull-and-Pay about 30 mins from me too.

the_merv 05-15-2012 01:43 AM

You mean pick n pocket?

OutlawZ 05-15-2012 11:48 PM

I'd just get a lokar...... honestly. you're building a motor that is what? 8-10K????

you worried about a 50 dollar cable??? :):):)

the_merv 05-15-2012 11:59 PM

Nickel & dime shit....;)

Puck 05-16-2012 09:19 AM


Originally Posted by OutlawZ (Post 16317309)
I'd just get a lokar...... honestly. you're building a motor that is what? 8-10K????

you worried about a 50 dollar cable??? :):):)

Lol I think I'm between 10 and 12k...

Just wondering, because if I could get the same thing done for cheap/free, thats 50 bucks I could put towards something else. I didn't skimp on the motor, but if I could save a few bucks here and there on the nickle and dime stuff without sacrificing reliability I'd do it.

I might just get the silver braided Lokar, at least its pretty to look at :bang:.

OutlawZ 05-17-2012 11:33 PM

yeah i feel ya.... MY theory on it was this when i built my motor (which was about 13-15K when all was said and done):

I wanted to leave nothing to chance. I didn't want to make excuses when i finally got it to the track so everyting was top dollar and top quality....

And was rewarded immediately when we brought it to the track. I had zero time in the seat, and very little time to tune or adjust anything. it was HOT AS HELL.... and the car went 10.60 right off the trailer on motor....

and just got faster and faster and faster since.... nothing has ever broke, or failed, or had one single problem getting anything to work with anything else.... so the old adage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately very true.....

Puck 05-18-2012 07:09 AM


Originally Posted by OutlawZ (Post 16325172)
yeah i feel ya.... MY theory on it was this when i built my motor (which was about 13-15K when all was said and done):

I wanted to leave nothing to chance. I didn't want to make excuses when i finally got it to the track so everyting was top dollar and top quality....

And was rewarded immediately when we brought it to the track. I had zero time in the seat, and very little time to tune or adjust anything. it was HOT AS HELL.... and the car went 10.60 right off the trailer on motor....

and just got faster and faster and faster since.... nothing has ever broke, or failed, or had one single problem getting anything to work with anything else.... so the old adage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately very true.....

I would love to be a few tenths into the 10s right off the trailer :)

Going to be fun relearning how to launch it with close to another ~150hp more then the last time I took it too the track :lol:.

Melkor 05-19-2012 11:01 PM

Every thought about building a BIG gen1 SBC tall-deck block?

I've owned three BBC cars and they're real pigs up front, unless you can afford a Donovan or similar. :)
So you'd better have straightline pedal mashing in mind if that's the route you wanna take, then the sky'$ really the limit.

Puck 05-19-2012 11:09 PM


Originally Posted by Melkor (Post 16331461)
Every thought about building a BIG gen1 SBC tall-deck block?

I've owned three BBC cars and they're real pigs up front, unless you can afford a Donovan or similar. :)
So you'd better have straightline pedal mashing in mind if that's the route you wanna take, then the sky'$ really the limit.

Never thought about a GenI for more then a fleeting second. I really like the reverse cooling and iron block of the LT1, and in all honesty the underdog factor is pretty cool as well. Although I wish we had a big bore aftermarket block, if I ditch the LTx platform its not going to be for an LSx or a GenI...it will be a BBC. She only goes straight, so a bit more weight up front wont concern me if I gain a ton of TQ and HP as a trade off :). I figure with the same ~12k I have into this LT1 I could have had a 700hp or so NA BBC with a lot more TQ...

The $ky is always the limit with ANY car :lol:.


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