4 Barrel TB guys inside please...
4 Barrel TB guys inside please... What throttle cable setup are you guys running? I had part numbers and everything ages ago but lost them with a reformat. Of course search is useless as well. Going on an ACCEL 4150 if that makes a difference.
I know FastFatBoy and OutlawZ are both using Lokar cables, but don't have the part number. Will the long universal one work? Are you reusing the ends of the stock cable?
Part numbers on the cable and bracket would be awesome...I'll probably just snag the Summit bracket and trim as needed since its cheap, but if there is a better one that works out of the box I'd run that.
Also looks like the Procharger hat is the most popular, unless anyone knows of a cheaper one that won't sacrifice performance. As long as it fits without ditching wipers then I'd run it...it is a street car after all
.
Thanks guys.
I know FastFatBoy and OutlawZ are both using Lokar cables, but don't have the part number. Will the long universal one work? Are you reusing the ends of the stock cable?
Part numbers on the cable and bracket would be awesome...I'll probably just snag the Summit bracket and trim as needed since its cheap, but if there is a better one that works out of the box I'd run that.
Also looks like the Procharger hat is the most popular, unless anyone knows of a cheaper one that won't sacrifice performance. As long as it fits without ditching wipers then I'd run it...it is a street car after all
.Thanks guys.
Hmmmm lemme see.... I can't specifically remember the exact length that I used. I think it was like somewhere in the 18" area... It really doesn't travel very far. If you are close on adjustment i think they are trimmable as well.... Where does your 4 barrel end up? Dead center of the intake? If so somewhere in the area of 18-20" I think will do the trick.... You don't really reuse the ends. On your gas pedal you'll have to reuse the little clip that holds it onto the pedal. Run it up thru the firewall to the back of the throttle bracket, leave yourself about a inch inch and a half of flex and then mark that spot. I trimmed the sleeve that the cable rides in at that point. Then the bracket/cable assy has a double nut lock feature to lock it to the bracket. Then the cable runs out to the 4 barrel throttle arm. Then you put the end on the cable at that point and use the small allen head bolt to secure it. It clips onto the throttle arm using a ball/socket thingy..... not much to it once you get all the parts and look at them. Lightbulb will come on after a few minutes.... 
Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....
Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....
Last edited by OutlawZ; May 10, 2012 at 03:09 AM.
Hmmmm lemme see.... I can't specifically remember the exact length that I used. I think it was like somewhere in the 18" area... It really doesn't travel very far. If you are close on adjustment i think they are trimmable as well.... Where does your 4 barrel end up? Dead center of the intake? If so somewhere in the area of 18-20" I think will do the trick.... You don't really reuse the ends. On your gas pedal you'll have to reuse the little clip that holds it onto the pedal. Run it up thru the firewall to the back of the throttle bracket, leave yourself about a inch inch and a half of flex and then mark that spot. I trimmed the sleeve that the cable rides in at that point. Then the bracket/cable assy has a double nut lock feature to lock it to the bracket. Then the cable runs out to the 4 barrel throttle arm. Then you put the end on the cable at that point and use the small allen head bolt to secure it. It clips onto the throttle arm using a ball/socket thingy..... not much to it once you get all the parts and look at them. Lightbulb will come on after a few minutes....
Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....
Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....
The tb has a port on it that I plan to run a remote map to, and will tap a 1" spacer for the fuel pressure vac line. If 1" is too tall then I'll mill it until it fits...it will be close lol.
Hmmmm lemme see.... I can't specifically remember the exact length that I used. I think it was like somewhere in the 18" area... It really doesn't travel very far. If you are close on adjustment i think they are trimmable as well.... Where does your 4 barrel end up? Dead center of the intake? If so somewhere in the area of 18-20" I think will do the trick.... You don't really reuse the ends. On your gas pedal you'll have to reuse the little clip that holds it onto the pedal. Run it up thru the firewall to the back of the throttle bracket, leave yourself about a inch inch and a half of flex and then mark that spot. I trimmed the sleeve that the cable rides in at that point. Then the bracket/cable assy has a double nut lock feature to lock it to the bracket. Then the cable runs out to the 4 barrel throttle arm. Then you put the end on the cable at that point and use the small allen head bolt to secure it. It clips onto the throttle arm using a ball/socket thingy..... not much to it once you get all the parts and look at them. Lightbulb will come on after a few minutes....
Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....
Procharger hat will fit with minimal trim near the wiper air intake plastic thingy. You can kind of see how much i had to back it up here.... also a good shot of my lokar cable and the bracket as well. Don't know your setup but drill a hole in the back of the hat and then put the IAT sensor back there and seal it with some good thread sealant.... works GREAT right there.. you could also do it further down your intake pipe i suppose....
im not trying to hi jack this thread i have some question. what intake manifold are those? and would you use a lt1 throttle body or would you use one like yours.
im thinking of going with a 4 barrel manifold next year and i figure this is be the spot to ask
and does it matter performance wise with FI compaired to nitrous on the lt1 manifolds
Trending Topics
im not trying to hi jack this thread i have some question. what intake manifold are those? and would you use a lt1 throttle body or would you use one like yours.
im thinking of going with a 4 barrel manifold next year and i figure this is be the spot to ask
and does it matter performance wise with FI compaired to nitrous on the lt1 manifolds
im thinking of going with a 4 barrel manifold next year and i figure this is be the spot to ask
and does it matter performance wise with FI compaired to nitrous on the lt1 manifolds
You can run an LT1 throttle body using an elbow and keep the stock throttle cable. I just sold a badass one on here.
No clue on how much better it is on a boosted build, but big shots of nitrous get better cylinder distribution the the stock intake. It also helps feed stroker NA builds that spin over 7K.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Think I'll take a look at it tomorrow morning, unless anyone already knows its not possible...which it probably isn't, or else one of you guys probably would have done it.
Last edited by Puck; May 14, 2012 at 10:57 PM.
Just wondering, because if I could get the same thing done for cheap/free, thats 50 bucks I could put towards something else. I didn't skimp on the motor, but if I could save a few bucks here and there on the nickle and dime stuff without sacrificing reliability I'd do it.
I might just get the silver braided Lokar, at least its pretty to look at
. yeah i feel ya.... MY theory on it was this when i built my motor (which was about 13-15K when all was said and done):
I wanted to leave nothing to chance. I didn't want to make excuses when i finally got it to the track so everyting was top dollar and top quality....
And was rewarded immediately when we brought it to the track. I had zero time in the seat, and very little time to tune or adjust anything. it was HOT AS HELL.... and the car went 10.60 right off the trailer on motor....
and just got faster and faster and faster since.... nothing has ever broke, or failed, or had one single problem getting anything to work with anything else.... so the old adage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately very true.....
I wanted to leave nothing to chance. I didn't want to make excuses when i finally got it to the track so everyting was top dollar and top quality....
And was rewarded immediately when we brought it to the track. I had zero time in the seat, and very little time to tune or adjust anything. it was HOT AS HELL.... and the car went 10.60 right off the trailer on motor....
and just got faster and faster and faster since.... nothing has ever broke, or failed, or had one single problem getting anything to work with anything else.... so the old adage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately very true.....
yeah i feel ya.... MY theory on it was this when i built my motor (which was about 13-15K when all was said and done):
I wanted to leave nothing to chance. I didn't want to make excuses when i finally got it to the track so everyting was top dollar and top quality....
And was rewarded immediately when we brought it to the track. I had zero time in the seat, and very little time to tune or adjust anything. it was HOT AS HELL.... and the car went 10.60 right off the trailer on motor....
and just got faster and faster and faster since.... nothing has ever broke, or failed, or had one single problem getting anything to work with anything else.... so the old adage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately very true.....
I wanted to leave nothing to chance. I didn't want to make excuses when i finally got it to the track so everyting was top dollar and top quality....
And was rewarded immediately when we brought it to the track. I had zero time in the seat, and very little time to tune or adjust anything. it was HOT AS HELL.... and the car went 10.60 right off the trailer on motor....
and just got faster and faster and faster since.... nothing has ever broke, or failed, or had one single problem getting anything to work with anything else.... so the old adage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately very true.....
Going to be fun relearning how to launch it with close to another ~150hp more then the last time I took it too the track
. 
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Keller, TX
Every thought about building a BIG gen1 SBC tall-deck block?
I've owned three BBC cars and they're real pigs up front, unless you can afford a Donovan or similar.
So you'd better have straightline pedal mashing in mind if that's the route you wanna take, then the sky'$ really the limit.
I've owned three BBC cars and they're real pigs up front, unless you can afford a Donovan or similar.
So you'd better have straightline pedal mashing in mind if that's the route you wanna take, then the sky'$ really the limit.
Every thought about building a BIG gen1 SBC tall-deck block?
I've owned three BBC cars and they're real pigs up front, unless you can afford a Donovan or similar.
So you'd better have straightline pedal mashing in mind if that's the route you wanna take, then the sky'$ really the limit.
I've owned three BBC cars and they're real pigs up front, unless you can afford a Donovan or similar.
So you'd better have straightline pedal mashing in mind if that's the route you wanna take, then the sky'$ really the limit.
. I figure with the same ~12k I have into this LT1 I could have had a 700hp or so NA BBC with a lot more TQ...The $ky is always the limit with ANY car
.