What All Is Needed For ABS Delete?
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2011
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What All Is Needed For ABS Delete? What fittings, blocks, hose, etc are needed to do an abs delete? I currently have an SLP line lock installed and I will not be running a proportioning valve. Just need to know the fitting sizes and what is needed to connect them up so it all works and doesn't leak! 
My understanding is that (for the front) I need to tee the front together going from master cylinder to line lock to tee to front calipers, and for the rear Just run the line right from the master to the rear brake line.
I tried to do lots of searching but haven't found a list of what I should be buying to accomplish this.
My understanding is that (for the front) I need to tee the front together going from master cylinder to line lock to tee to front calipers, and for the rear Just run the line right from the master to the rear brake line.
I tried to do lots of searching but haven't found a list of what I should be buying to accomplish this.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WI...1179/?rtype=10
This is the easy way. You can put the line lock between the proportioning valve and the master. It has the from split built in and the rear is in and out and gives you the valve to control rear pressure as well. Personally I think this is the best way to go, but that's just my $.02
This is the easy way. You can put the line lock between the proportioning valve and the master. It has the from split built in and the rear is in and out and gives you the valve to control rear pressure as well. Personally I think this is the best way to go, but that's just my $.02
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WI...1179/?rtype=10
This is the easy way. You can put the line lock between the proportioning valve and the master. It has the from split built in and the rear is in and out and gives you the valve to control rear pressure as well. Personally I think this is the best way to go, but that's just my $.02
This is the easy way. You can put the line lock between the proportioning valve and the master. It has the from split built in and the rear is in and out and gives you the valve to control rear pressure as well. Personally I think this is the best way to go, but that's just my $.02
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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Well, it's a turbo car, but that doesn't really matter. I want full pressure to the rear all the time so I can brake boost it and have it hold as much power as possible so I don't really need a proportioning valve since it would be wide open anyways.
I don't want a third gen proportioning valve because I don't want to cut and re-crimp my brake lines with 6 different size fittings. I just want to get the correct fittings to tee the fronts together and to hook up the rear to the master cylinder. What sizes are the fittings on the stock brake lines and what all is needed to do this keeping it simple? Can't be too hard, I just want to know if anyone has a parts list from this or something.
I don't want a third gen proportioning valve because I don't want to cut and re-crimp my brake lines with 6 different size fittings. I just want to get the correct fittings to tee the fronts together and to hook up the rear to the master cylinder. What sizes are the fittings on the stock brake lines and what all is needed to do this keeping it simple? Can't be too hard, I just want to know if anyone has a parts list from this or something.
Last edited by 1Legged60ftHnter; May 31, 2012 at 02:51 PM.
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I used 3/8's x 24 inverted flare nuts. I went straight out of the master into my line lock, needing a couple fitting adapters to do so, and then went out of the line lock into a 3/8 x 24 inverted flare T. Either front line ran into this. Rear you just have to run to the master.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
You should have to T both front and rear lines due to ABS. But it's not hard. you just need the correct parts and fittings with a double flare tool. I'm doing the wifes Impala now. Also, I highly suggest a prop valve. At least get an adjustable one. You really don't want all 4 locking up evenly.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2011
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I used 3/8's x 24 inverted flare nuts. I went straight out of the master into my line lock, needing a couple fitting adapters to do so, and then went out of the line lock into a 3/8 x 24 inverted flare T. Either front line ran into this. Rear you just have to run to the master.
You should have to T both front and rear lines due to ABS. But it's not hard. you just need the correct parts and fittings with a double flare tool. I'm doing the wifes Impala now. Also, I highly suggest a prop valve. At least get an adjustable one. You really don't want all 4 locking up evenly.
Reuse the ones in the master, 3 for the front T juction, and you could do a union if you don't want to run new line to the rear so 2 there.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 66
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From: Richmond Hill, GA
did this work out for you? Im in the same situation and can not locate the fittings I need. I got a 3/8 tee but the stock lines wont fit into it so adapters are needed, and the only ones I could find were reversed from what they need to be.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: Slidell, LA
That's where I am at with trying to find the core t adapters to screw stock line into the Brass Tee. I am trying to avoid flaring the lines cause that never works right for me.
Metric 8mm inverted flare into a 3/16 male I think for each front bake line & a 10mm inverted flare for single rear brake line. I believe
I am also doing the line lock & Prop Valve in a Turbo car.
Metric 8mm inverted flare into a 3/16 male I think for each front bake line & a 10mm inverted flare for single rear brake line. I believe
I am also doing the line lock & Prop Valve in a Turbo car.
