93z383

iTrader: (-1)

Amongst my cooling issues in the other thread, I just flushed my coolant and am now getting a couple codes. So the check engine light is not on, and when I scan it these codes do not show and aren't primary. I have to go into the enhanced DTC's feature on my scanner where 3 codes show under "current DTC", "fail since clear DTC" and 1 more menu.

So when I flushed the coolant I pulled the knock sensor on the pass side and I dropped it on the ground since it was so hot. I cleaned it up good with a rag and used a touch of dielectric grease on the pins of the harness, figured it would be fine. But the car has been noticeably slow as **** under WOT recently.

The codes (from memory but pretty sure it's correct) are
LOW VOLTAGE/CURRENT KNOCK SENSOR BANK 2
something something AIR INJECTION bank 2?
third is something else with AIR, i'll get specifics when I go out next...

Am I going to have to buy a new knock sensor, and is my loss of WOT power likely from the sensor issue? Also I just got some new ceramic LT headers and was planning on totally deleting all emissions and AC, so by doing that will I take care of the other 2 codes for AIR?

Does AIR have anything to do with performance/power? Someone explain what this seemingly useless BS is for lol...

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Did you use sealant on the KS?

93z383

iTrader: (-1)

I didn't use any sealant, but no coolant is dripping though... there was that dark red / burgundy super tough stuff on the threads so I just screwed it back in and got it real tight. Put a tiny dab of dielectric grease on the connector end of it and plugged it it.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the factory sealant is all you need. I'd say replace it. I too had a bum KS sensor that made the car run like ****. It eventually threw a code, replaced it and all was well.

edit.. wait.. it never threw a code. since my PCM was tuned by Ed Wright my SES light had never gone off. It think he just turned it off. LOL
I actually had it scanned and the timing retard was completely off.