Hot rod magazine has done several articles on budget, stock bottom end LS turbo setups with pretty good results ....594 hp for $3252 or 1203 hp stock 4.8 turbo 27#boost with ported heads, lsx intake, cam, ect.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...2/viewall.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/h...g_bang_theory/

 

Everyone is talking price about the motor only, now you need the fuel system to support the HP, Injectors / pump possibly rails and fuel lines. and now comes the suspension and drive train, stock components will not survive and you will not be able to plant the HP /Tq to the ground..the list goes on...

 

Yes but he needs that no mater what motor he chooses

 

Yes but it still needs to be discussed.

 

Devil is in the details, but it can be done. As with any project, it's the challenge of getting there and the satisfaction of doing it. We all know there are easier routes to take, but being able to say you did a streetable 700hp with an LT1 is something. There's was a guy around here who had a 700hp LT1 a few years ago, drove it to work every day.

 

Dude that's so true. Swapping an lt1 to a turbo gen 3 is $4k MAX! People just don't understand.

 

Remember in 300 when gerard butler says "thigh to neck"? Building your 700hp LT1 car is the same concept except in this case it's "back to front". The key word here is streetable. That to me means stop and go traffic, subject to weather, the occasional freeway race, etc. HarleyZ28 and moehorsepower are 100% on the money. The motor should be the last thing you worry about in a build such as this. What good is all that power if you don't have the mods to support it?

 

Of course you need supporting mods, thats no question such as suspension and rear end. I simply gave the basic "cheap" way to 700 hp. Can you do 700 at the crank on a 383 LT1? Of course you can, throw on a turbo kit.

 

My friend has a 5.3 turbo set-up in his 2006 Silverado, yep it makes the power, and yep he has a few extra 5.3s waiting to replace this one when he gets to greedy again (which is every time he races it).

 

700hp is only a bragging number untill an integra busts your *** cause you brought an f-body with a nearly broke 275hp suspension, rear and shitty slipping trans.. add 2k for a trans swap 2k at least for a rearend, another 1k for suspension supporting parts.... Then there's a **** ton of nickel & dime you to death parts.. And a REAL tune to make it last..
My $4000+dollar NA 383's trans **** the bed nearly instantly, as does most factory **** with any power over stock..
Plan from The ground up. Take your rough estimate and triple it and you may still need a loan.
I had $4,000+ in a budget turbo ls1 f-car in just the trans and budget "turbo kit" ,mounts ,v-bands,couplers, radiator,fans,cooler,fuel system.. Still needed a real tune,a rear ,exhaust shop work,tires ,shocks, ect..
Its not cheap either way you go is my point, which one would benefit you more is anyone's guess.. GL

 

How is the bottom end torque with the 5.3??

 

Go ask the ls board

 

Spend some time in the forced induction section and look up a lot of builds.
Check this thread out.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1522770-fairmont-2-0-forged-lq4-s480-800whp-under-new-management.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1450736-my-turbo-build-5-3-t56-gt45.html

 

Dvs LT1. Not trying to argue but a lot of people have reliable 700rwhp 4.8 and 5.3 out of a junkyard. I'm not done with my build but I hope to drive mine everyday. Ls pcm and harness for $130. Converted my tranny for 300.

Go read the forced induction section if it couldn't be done people wouldn't be swapping out aes 370 for 5.3 . Again not trying to argue or start a **** storm.

 

Oh yea the key to being on a budget is buying used parts from forum members and everyone has a **** load of used parts for ls motors. **** 90% of the stuff can be found used. Look at the sale section.

 

Another thing not mentioned in this thread is some states dont allow you to swap engines unless it was and engine that would have been equipped in that car that year. Like you can swap a 3.4 to lt1 but you cant swap and 3.4 to ls1 or lt1 to ls1. they can nail you on a inspection and refuse to give you a sticker. Just saying you want to do your home work before you do any engine swaps. Your gona be a pretty pissed person if you swap and engine you cant get to pass inspection.

 

another one of the "just do a five three" discussions.........its like thats everyones answer now after they read that hot rod article........can you make alot of power on a 5.3? yes you can smaller bore = less bob weight and less chance of detonation and less surface area to pressurize.......but they DO break......and argument is oh well they're cheap just put another one in.......

so lets say you run a turbo'd 5.3 and it decides to let go one day while ur driving ur nicely waxed and polished up car down the highway ok ........well #1 you hope that after it chucks the rod it doesnt put a hole in the oil pan and dump oil on ur nice orange exhaust and light the whole damn car on fire (yes ive seen this before i watched a beautiful white SS burn down on the side of the highway).........2# you hope that when it does explode that the pieces that fly out the exhaust dont make it to the turbo and destroy that so you now have a 2nd paperweight........3. you now have to take the time or pay someone else to remove the junk and install the new one.......we know how much of a PITA it is to work on 4th gens.........

OR.........

instead of taking the hack solution to somthing you spend about $1800 and put forged rods and pistons in a stock LS1 and go haved fun.......no pulling the motor no worrying about it blowing up no extra motors hanging around........do it once and do it right.......


just my $.02


also in regards to your original ?..........joel is right budget and 700hp go together like making toast in the bathtub..........what id reccomend doing is build a good platform and enjoy it for a while........when you save up enough $$ to do ur turbo or supercharger you do it........also just personally for a motor that you want to be durable and last a long time long strokes and forced induction dont mix well.........the longer the stroke the higher the pin in the piston and the weaker it gets........if i were you id run just your normal 6" rod 3.75" 383 and stay away from going with the 3.875 396.........could even run a 5.85 rod if you want.....

 

Yeah!!!

 

Buddy built a 383 stock ported heads and intake, CC306 cam and a 60mm turbo, six speed and a stock 10 bolt and it was 11 to1 compression. Was a flipped manifold "log" kit. Forget who makes it.

It made almost 600 to the wheels and turbo was WAYYYY too small. Not to mention the WRONG camshaft.

With a 76mm on that same setup would have EASILY made 700 to the wheels.

Just because this is a second gen platform for some reason you guys want to make it hard to make power, it's a small block chebby man.

Here ya go

Have fun

http://www.lt1boost.net/home