Thinking going 355...
Thinking going 355... So I am thinking about going with 355 and just revving to the moon.
What Forged Rotating assembly does most people recommend? Don't need top of the line, just something affordable and that is quality built.
Which ever kit it is, my goal is to get a custom grind cam and spin 7000+ rpms. Wanting to get into 10's N/A,
What Forged Rotating assembly does most people recommend? Don't need top of the line, just something affordable and that is quality built.
Which ever kit it is, my goal is to get a custom grind cam and spin 7000+ rpms. Wanting to get into 10's N/A,
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
Do you want to go OVER 7k or just right up to 7k? The reason I ask is because a stock pcm cannot go over 7k. You would need an aftermarket ecu like a FAST XFI, Holley Dominator EFI, or 24x LS1 conversion. That would add a lot of money and complexity to the build. If you want to take it right up to 7k the stock rotating assembly will work just fine. The crank is very strong. You could save yourself a lot of money. Just order a custom set of .030" pistons and send all of your parts to the best machine shop you have for machining and a balance job. I like the new Trickflow 185 21 degree head for 350-355 cube engines. You could run AI 200cc package, LE2 stuff or AFR 195's too.
I was told stock bottom ends don't like anything past 6500k rpm's. What kind of cam would you recommend for spinning to 7k for the most power? Like I mentioned, wanting to get into 10's N/A.
I believe my current rear end set up will hold well with the power ( Moser 12 bolt w/4:10) I also have a Lingenfelter 3 1/2 aluminum drive shaft.
I believe my current rear end set up will hold well with the power ( Moser 12 bolt w/4:10) I also have a Lingenfelter 3 1/2 aluminum drive shaft.
10s N/A on a 355 is going to take a very aggressive valvetrain (most likely solid roller), very good heads, and a very VERY good suspension, along with the aftermarket PCM management Joel mentioned.
Having said that, running 10s N/A on a larger displacement engine will be much easier. See sig.
Having said that, running 10s N/A on a larger displacement engine will be much easier. See sig.
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
A bigger bore doesn't mean it's going to run hotter. My bigger motor runs cooler than my 350 did and it's .060" over. It might be the coolant passageways in the heads are different, who knows. My car was very close to running 10's with the 350 and the motor in it wasn't matched very well at all. It ran low 11's (11.11 at 121.65 was best) at a light raceweight of around 3075lbs. Trust me when I say that if I could PLAN a stock shortblock build or a 355 build, I'm sure I could get the motor making 50 more hp than what I had on my 350. That would negate the need to get the weight down like I did to run a number. Get it running 11.20's in the summer and when the fall weather hits, take a cruise to a track that stays open in November and take advantage of some great air. You'll find a few tenths right there.
