I got free LT1 engine

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Jul 19, 2012 | 08:35 PM

#21

iTh3 Riddler

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From: San Diego

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr

the 327/588 thing is one common method used to identify an L99 vs. and LT1 BUT as you are seeing the engine has BOTH so you need to know where exactly to look for them to be different. That is why the 5.7/4.3 is MUCH easier to look at out of the car.

I am just happy it is actually a 5.7. But now I don't know where to go from here.

Jul 20, 2012 | 12:28 AM

#22

Zlow28

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i could tell its a lt1 cus it seems like it was leaking...

On a more serious note, pop open the valve covers to see what you find.

Jul 20, 2012 | 09:09 AM

#23

iTh3 Riddler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Zlow28

i could tell its a lt1 cus it seems like it was leaking...

On a more serious note, pop open the valve covers to see what you find.

I already popped off the valve covers and took one of the heads off yesterday. I'll see if I can snap a few pictures.

Jul 20, 2012 | 09:31 AM

#24

FAD2BLK93

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From: POULSBO WA.

Just run the casting numbers at the rear or of the block on the bellhousing. That will tell u what size the motor is. Then run the numbers on the pad in front of the passenger head, to tell u what it was in.

Jul 20, 2012 | 09:43 AM

#25

defaultexistence

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From: fort walton beach,fl

He already established it's a 5.7

Jul 20, 2012 | 11:22 AM

#26

nomoneyz

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From: Apple Valley - So Cal

Quote:

Originally Posted by iTh3 Riddler

I already popped off the valve covers and took one of the heads off yesterday. I'll see if I can snap a few pictures.

Do you have time and space to do a build on it? That is really the only option other than selling it.

Jul 20, 2012 | 11:39 PM

#27

iTh3 Riddler

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From: San Diego

Quote:

Originally Posted by nomoneyz

Do you have time and space to do a build on it? That is really the only option other than selling it.

I have time and space but Idk about money to build it for a bit. What is it even worth anyways?

Jul 21, 2012 | 09:39 AM

#28

SS RRR

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From: Jackstandican

Pull the cam, lifters, rockers and pushrods and do a leakdown if you can. Put spark plugs in all holes except for the cylinder you are testing. That way the seven other cylinders will all have compression on them and you won't have to rotate the engine very much to find TDC for each cylinder tested. If all eight cylinders check out then you could probably get a couple hundred for it IMO, however most buyers though will want to see if there is any crosshatch in the cylinders.
If you don't have the means to do a leakdown then pull the heads, check the cylinders and pistons as well as if you can rock the pistons in the bores.