FormyLtX

Introductions to all, how's it going first off. Anywho, moral of the story, putting a new engine together and sort of stuck at the moment. Got the heads worked on by a local who does head work for other garages, heads have been milled down .020 of a inch, I put Alex's parts valve spring kit (Outside Diameter- 1.268" and Inside Diameter- .880"), Scorpion 7/16 1.6 NSA RR w/TrickFlow GPs and 7/16 ARP studs, 3-Angle job, LT4 Valves, and decked. Headgaskets are .39 Fel-pros, along with CompCam 503 (CCA-07-503-8), CC hardend chromoly pushrods, ARP head bolts and mains all the way around. I think to top it off a pair of Pacesetter LT headers. My problem is, I still want to keep it a 350 of course, reusing the stock crank, but I would like a new set of forged pistons and rods. Highly preferrable to be floating wristpins. What would you guys perfer? I called scat and they suggested this combo, not too sure on which Keith Black pistons but they were press-fit (maybe he didn't hear me) and a set of their forged I-beam rods (p/n 2-icr5700-716). Would like to keep the compression no higher than 10, keeping the car quite streetable, reason why I want to change them is because they have about 260k on the clock, I would rather not stroke it higher because honestly I just want my car back since its been down since Feb, thanks for the input, if you need more information outta me just holler.

FormyLtX

anyone?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

$270 Scat I beam 6” rods http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/scat-...ting-rods.html

Those are cheap and strong for what you want. You will want way more than 10:1 in an NA LT1, more like 12:1. You can still use pump gas with a good tune. Do a search and youll find a ton of information on stock crank forged rods forged pistons builds.

FormyLtX

so i think i've decided to go with a homemade 377 route, using stock sized pistons and rods with a 383 crank. scat 5.7 rods of course, scat 9000 series cast crank, and a set of srs pistons. though i was thinking about the 383 entirely, but i honestly would like to have my car back seeming as i made the mistake of not buying a second nor thought to myself 'gee...what happens if i do have to do a rebuild' although i'm not going to rush this and slap everything together, but i will be making more calls during the week to get more information on the rotating assembly, i've plugged it up into several compression calculators and i'm pretty sure my math is completely wrong.

WS Sick

Make sure your pistons are for 1/4 inch top and second ring or the thinner even 1.5 mm top. You would be surprised the amount of HP a 5/64th ring set eats. 1/4 are fine for the street people have been doing it for years. Do not buy a cast steel crank.

FAD2BLK93

Seen alot of posts about the cast steel crank problems. Stock crank, or forged period. DONT DO IT!!!!

FormyLtX

Thanks for the warning guys, I did more research this morning about that crank, and its if-y with alot of people, I'm just gonna man up all forged. Won't have to worry about it later. Although, I'm still back at the issue for choosing pistons, WS Sick, haven't found the pistons with the ring sizes your talking about, the only ones i found for my choice of crank and rods in summit were pistons that were 1/16 in. x 1/16 in. x 3/16 in.