100 octance fuel will it solve kr
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100 octance fuel will it solve kr got a lt1 heres the specs the problem is tht im getting some engine knock pcm for less decesotized my knock sensor still getting some knock
whats the advantages and disadvantages of 100 octane
will the 100 octance fuel help???
Lt1 350 bored to a 355
Heads ported and polished (flows: intake 278, exhaust 197)
CC Cam 230/242, .510 lift,113 lobe separation
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers w/7/16" studs
Comp Cams 987 Dual Valve Springs
SI Silverline Series Valves,(2.00" intake and 1.57 Exhaust)
Eagle H beem connecting rods
JE Forged Nitrous Pistons
Crane Hardened Push Rods
whats the advantages and disadvantages of 100 octane
will the 100 octance fuel help???
Lt1 350 bored to a 355
Heads ported and polished (flows: intake 278, exhaust 197)
CC Cam 230/242, .510 lift,113 lobe separation
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers w/7/16" studs
Comp Cams 987 Dual Valve Springs
SI Silverline Series Valves,(2.00" intake and 1.57 Exhaust)
Eagle H beem connecting rods
JE Forged Nitrous Pistons
Crane Hardened Push Rods
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Yea it will help, I ran 104 octane since they sell it at a pump near me. The problem with doing that is that you aren't finding out the problem, your're just masking it. I found I had a bad coil and a vacuum leak was causing the engine knock retard. Check your ignition system.
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Yea it will help, I ran 104 octane since they sell it at a pump near me. The problem with doing that is that you aren't finding out the problem, your're just masking it. I found I had a bad coil and a vacuum leak was causing the engine knock retard. Check your ignition system.
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My scanmaster would pull around 4 (I'm not sure if that actual knock or a rattle causing it) on a hot day if it was cool out I wouldn't see any, when running 104 I knew that I had a larger safety margin.
No disadvantage on running higher octane, well cost is about it. You will have to experiment to find what your car needs.
No disadvantage on running higher octane, well cost is about it. You will have to experiment to find what your car needs.
Thats actually backwards; less dense requires more timing. Which is why the low load/vacuum portion of a spark map has such high timing and why boosted engines dont need as much. The air temp sensors pull timing because hot air is far more likely to detonate than cool air.
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My scanmaster would pull around 4 (I'm not sure if that actual knock or a rattle causing it) on a hot day if it was cool out I wouldn't see any, when running 104 I knew that I had a larger safety margin.
No disadvantage on running higher octane, well cost is about it. You will have to experiment to find what your car needs.
No disadvantage on running higher octane, well cost is about it. You will have to experiment to find what your car needs.
It's in the 68 in my sig now, the compression is very good, and it ran a 9.6 on a cam only slightly larger than yours. It was a combination of a vacuum leak and a me destroying my MSD opti and coil. I think what you are trying to do is put a band-aid on the underlying problem.
This is the thread.
This is the thread.
Last edited by fex77k; Sep 18, 2012 at 08:50 PM.
You have GOT to quit trying to hide this problem and solve it. There is no reason that your 11:1 compression engine should be having a knock unless there is a legitimate problem. You keep hiding it, you could destroy your engine.
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i called my pcmforless he said its right on soooo......................
there is no exhaust hitting off floor or anything..
no check engine lights so i have no idea
there is no exhaust hitting off floor or anything..
no check engine lights so i have no idea
Either the OP has more compression than he thinks or there is something else going on.
He did in another thread that it was around 11:1, he also bought the car already built, from a guy who built the car to run a big hit of nitrous, and supposodly never ran nitrous through it.
You need to see if you can find someone who knows LT1s in your Pittsburg/Morgantown area and have them take a look, or your going to have to suck it up and take it to a mechanic. I would also take it to another tuner and have them take a look at what its doing, and see if they can fix it on the dyno. There is something seriously wrong if your car, which sounds like it should be making around 370-390 to the tires, cant trap more than a bolton only LT1.
Like was said in a few other threads you have started, PUT THE THING ON THE DYNO, at a shop that knows how to tune LT1s.
You need to see if you can find someone who knows LT1s in your Pittsburg/Morgantown area and have them take a look, or your going to have to suck it up and take it to a mechanic. I would also take it to another tuner and have them take a look at what its doing, and see if they can fix it on the dyno. There is something seriously wrong if your car, which sounds like it should be making around 370-390 to the tires, cant trap more than a bolton only LT1.
Like was said in a few other threads you have started, PUT THE THING ON THE DYNO, at a shop that knows how to tune LT1s.
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Also, have you run any higher octane through it to see if its false knock?