LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Winters rapidly approaching!

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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 07:55 AM
  #21  
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From: Jackstandican
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I became a firm believer in quality all season radials one time I made a trip from DFW to Denver in November in my '85 Camaro. I was on a desolate part of 87 between Dumas and Dalhart. It had started snowing heavily in Amarillo and by this time I was having to count on the upright side road reflectors to ensure I was still on the road. I was making my own tracks in 4 or more inches of fresh snow. Never had a problem accelerating or braking. By the time I hit Raton pass the plows had come through at least once, but there was still packed and fresh mixed and I was able to get through it in time before they closed it. It was funny because my temp gauge was reading 210* and I had no idea how that could be considering the temp. When I stopped on the side of the road it was then I realized the font grill was completely covered in ice at least 1" thick. The radio antenna had horizontal ice cycles. It was a sight to behold. I was really proud of my car at that point.
But yeah, throughout any of the several winters I was in Denver I never got stuck on any road using all seasons. Of course I wouldn't try and tackle anything like Loveland Pass or Eisenhower, but normal every day snow driving it was muy bueno.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 09:21 AM
  #22  
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My biggest concern is rust, anyone who's lived in a climate that sees regular snow "should" know how to keep controll.. Now ground clearance may be an issue

But rust is the enemy here, salty roads are no bueno and as of now there isn't a speckle of rust on my bird
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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Just buy an old shitty truck, blazer, or even an old front wheel drive car. I don't care what anyone says, if you live in an area where snow is common, have a winter vehicle. I couldn't stand the thought of driving my nice car in ice and snow getting rotted away by salt. On top of that, at any moment its easy for some idiot to lose control and slam into you when its icy. It's a no brainer to me to have a 4WD in the winter. I've always had a truck and an F-body since I was 16. My first truck was a rotted out '84 K1500 GMC that I bought for $800. Got me where I wanted to go and then some. Was reliable as hell too. After that I had an '82 K1500 GMC Diesel that got 22 MPG and got me through blizzards on bald all seasons.

Sorry for the rant but driving an f-body in the snow and ice is retarded and unsafe.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 10:32 AM
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Agreed, and if I buy a little Honda for the winter I can put a leaf blower on the intake, hack off the exhaust right at the manifold and slap some neons on it for a total of 550+ torque

Then reck it.. On purpose
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by KFtransam
Agreed, and if I buy a little Honda for the winter I can put a leaf blower on the intake, hack off the exhaust right at the manifold and slap some neons on it for a total of 550+ torque

Then reck it.. On purpose
Haha like I said it doesn't have to be a truck, a front wheel drive beater can do the job too. I had a '96 sunfire for awhile that I drove in the winter and that damn car went through some deep **** and never let me down. You can find something cheap, just check craigslist.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #26  
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I'm with Roxy...snow tires vs. all seasons, there is no comparison. I drove my 89 RS for 4 winters with studded snows on the back, regular snows on the front and it kicked ***. All seasons? It didn't move all that well

However, I have seen what winter does to cars. Buy a beater. Period. If you value that car, keep it out of the salt. I will never drive another car I care about in the snow...ever.

Even my Wrangler is coming off the road for the winter
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by KFtransam
My biggest concern is rust.
The don't drive on roads with salt on them. Either that or every time you reach your destination, thoroughly wash the wheel wheels and underside of the car, however even using those extreme measures won't stop all of it.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
The don't drive on roads with salt on them. Either that or every time you reach your destination, thoroughly wash the wheel wheels and underside of the car, however even using those extreme measures won't stop all of it.
The time and money spent on washing your good vehicle everyday could be spent on a beater you don't care about.
But like you said, I wash my '98 Silverado weekly during the winter and still my box sides started some bubbling rust.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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I've had an '85 and a '94. Honestly, I can't imagine driving one of these things in the snow on a regular basis. For the past 12 years, I've had a Jeep Grand Cherokee as my daily driver. In the snow, I think I would take a 4x4 on slicks over an f-body. I'm sure snow tires and some weight in the rear would probably help, but I still wouldn't do it unless I had no other options.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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I figure ill share a known fact, parking your salt covered car in a garage or a space that is warmer (contrary to popular belief) actually increases oxidization and rust comparitive to keeping it parked outside

So if you ARE driving in salty conditions, keep your baby cold
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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you guys are cruel exposing your rides to all that salt- thats what beaters are for! I just picked up a '98 1500 long bed w/ a salvage title and a small dent for $1500..what does a set of snow tires go for? spend a little more and buy a beater
not to mention even w/ snow tires my camaro would never make it around NH when I head up there which is pretty often
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KFtransam
I figure ill share a known fact, parking your salt covered car in a garage or a space that is warmer (contrary to popular belief) actually increases oxidization and rust comparitive to keeping it parked outside

So if you ARE driving in salty conditions, keep your baby cold
That's correct. Once you get the car in an enclosed space, the heat from the engine will warn the surrounding air for a brief time, and that's long enough to get the snow/salt mixture thawed a bit, and the salt starts working, even for a few minutes......
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