B-Body Mods
B-Body Mods Hey guys. I have a buddy from work who has a 96 caprice he wants to make a little faster. I've been talking with him about some of the things he can do to make it run better but when we got to headers I started noticing there doesn't seem to be many options out there left for B-Body's. I told him he needs a good CAI, a better exhaust setup, Headers, a tune, and maybe some roller rockers. I've been able to help him with everything except the headers.
Where can he get a good set that will be able to use his cats to pass inspection? He's willing to spend for some good ones but we were having trouble finding anything. Thanks for the help in advance.
Where can he get a good set that will be able to use his cats to pass inspection? He's willing to spend for some good ones but we were having trouble finding anything. Thanks for the help in advance.
Thanks guys. I went to that go fast goodies page yesterday but I was not finding what I was looking for. My buddy is not opposed to laying down good money for the right parts.
Dwayne I was hoping you would chime in. Are those the headers you run?
Dwayne I was hoping you would chime in. Are those the headers you run?
I'm sorry I missed the point that your question was really only about headers.
I haven't looked in that "Go Fast.." page in a long time, but pretty sure it recommends CIA headers. I ran their Tri-Y's (1st design) for a long time and have no complaints other than ALL the coatings they offered at the time weren't much good. They did warranty them, but come on, is it really worth it to remove headers from the car and ship them to the west coast, when all they do is put something on them that is not much better than heat resistant paint? IMO, they're a good header, just overpriced. If you see a used set for a good price, ****** them up; they're a beefy header and last a long time.
For a daily driver, I like any Tri-Y design better than a 4-into-1, because of that rust trap between the 4 pipes at the collector weld. Tri-Y's have only two tubes merged at any one point.
I haven't looked in that "Go Fast.." page in a long time, but pretty sure it recommends CIA headers. I ran their Tri-Y's (1st design) for a long time and have no complaints other than ALL the coatings they offered at the time weren't much good. They did warranty them, but come on, is it really worth it to remove headers from the car and ship them to the west coast, when all they do is put something on them that is not much better than heat resistant paint? IMO, they're a good header, just overpriced. If you see a used set for a good price, ****** them up; they're a beefy header and last a long time.
For a daily driver, I like any Tri-Y design better than a 4-into-1, because of that rust trap between the 4 pipes at the collector weld. Tri-Y's have only two tubes merged at any one point.
Stan's is what I use and Stan's was CIA supplier before CIA decided to manufacture themselves so the build quality is the same.
My first set of headers were CIA Budget headers and like Pat said the coating was really bad.
Honestly knowing some company history and all I wont ever spend another dime at CIA again. He is not great to deal with either not after the purchase anyway, a friend just had to have a set of the CIA built gen 1 tri-ys rewelded and coated because they cracked and the coating was crap.
I would agree with Pat far as the tri-Ys I wont pretend to benchrace that they are better or anything just going to say plug access is better and as he said less places for debris and rust to collect.
For your location coating alone should be fine, for a northern daily driver though I at one point had 409 stainless tri-ys with ceramic coating, that way in the places the ceramic failed the 409 still wont rot out like mild would.
Current set is 304 stainless 1 3/4" uncoated, plug changes are not something I look forward too but they are built like a brick shithouse and the thick 304 seems to do a good job of containing heat even without ceramic.
My first set of headers were CIA Budget headers and like Pat said the coating was really bad.
Honestly knowing some company history and all I wont ever spend another dime at CIA again. He is not great to deal with either not after the purchase anyway, a friend just had to have a set of the CIA built gen 1 tri-ys rewelded and coated because they cracked and the coating was crap.
I would agree with Pat far as the tri-Ys I wont pretend to benchrace that they are better or anything just going to say plug access is better and as he said less places for debris and rust to collect.
For your location coating alone should be fine, for a northern daily driver though I at one point had 409 stainless tri-ys with ceramic coating, that way in the places the ceramic failed the 409 still wont rot out like mild would.
Current set is 304 stainless 1 3/4" uncoated, plug changes are not something I look forward too but they are built like a brick shithouse and the thick 304 seems to do a good job of containing heat even without ceramic.
I sincerely appreciate the leads guys. I'll pass on the info and see what we can get done on his car...I have to say I really enjoyed driving his car. I had never driven a B-body but after doing so I will probably look into buying one when I find a good clean one. It was extremely comfortable and pretty peppy for a big car. Now I know why some of you guys love them.
On a side not the shop he's been taking his car to has been screwing with him. He asked me to drive it because he said it was running rough and upon inspection...he had an injector plug dissconnected and the vent tube from the opti was out of the intake elbow. The injector plug does not just come off it has to be purposely pulled so I'm pretty sure they're messing with him to get him to bring the car back in. Needless to say I convinced him to stop taking it there.
On a side not the shop he's been taking his car to has been screwing with him. He asked me to drive it because he said it was running rough and upon inspection...he had an injector plug dissconnected and the vent tube from the opti was out of the intake elbow. The injector plug does not just come off it has to be purposely pulled so I'm pretty sure they're messing with him to get him to bring the car back in. Needless to say I convinced him to stop taking it there.
