Electrical completely dead, battery is good.
Electrical completely dead, battery is good. I drove my car yesterday, everything was normal. After working on my grand prix all day today, I go to my T/A to move it. Key in and nothing, so I assume the battery is dead. I get cables and a spare battery and hook it up, everything still dead.
I bust out my multimeter and check both batts/ connections, all 12.5V. Its dark now so tomorrow I assume I'll be checking all the fuses/ going through the wiring harness (again)..
Any other suggestions?
I bust out my multimeter and check both batts/ connections, all 12.5V. Its dark now so tomorrow I assume I'll be checking all the fuses/ going through the wiring harness (again)..
Any other suggestions?
My guess would be the ignition switch?
http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html
When it goes dead, the engine dies as well or when you try to start the car, there are no dash lights, no crank, no nothing (but the headlights will still work).
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Verdad Gallardo Turns out it was the negative battery cable, never replaced a cable but I got it running fiddling with it.
Now today the car dies 3x on the parkway stumbling and backfiring very badly. I managed to coast to the next off ramp and it wont start/ stay running at all.
Wait half an hour, start it again and runs perfectly fine on the way home.
F***ing optis.
Now today the car dies 3x on the parkway stumbling and backfiring very badly. I managed to coast to the next off ramp and it wont start/ stay running at all.
Wait half an hour, start it again and runs perfectly fine on the way home.
F***ing optis.
Out of curiosity, how much more work would it to be to throw a cam in while the opti is being swapped?
I'd like to do heads/cam at some point, but the car is a DD until next summer at least. Maybe throw in an off the shelf cam now that doesn't need crazy valvetrain mods, but would I be opening an even bigger can of worms?
I'd like to do heads/cam at some point, but the car is a DD until next summer at least. Maybe throw in an off the shelf cam now that doesn't need crazy valvetrain mods, but would I be opening an even bigger can of worms?
Called autozone and got blown off this morning.. So I took a ride to the bank and stopped by azone to ask if they test ignition modules. The manager told me she'd never heard of that, when I told her that I'd known many people who had it done at other stores (fieros blow ICMs like crazy) she looked at me all weird.
Anyways, as I was leaving azone I got on it hard and boom shakalaka it backfired hard, started stumbling badly and stalled. I waited 40 minutes and it fired up and drove home like nothing ever happened once again.
So on both occasions, I had been driving for 10-20 minutes and this happened. Every time it used to cut out on me it would happen after at least 10 mins of driving. This seems to me like its an ICM problem, but why the 16, 32, and 34 codes?
I'll order a new ICM from rockauto cause its 50% cheaper than whats here locally and give that a shot. Preventative maintenance even if its not the culprit, everything else is new..
Anyways, as I was leaving azone I got on it hard and boom shakalaka it backfired hard, started stumbling badly and stalled. I waited 40 minutes and it fired up and drove home like nothing ever happened once again.
So on both occasions, I had been driving for 10-20 minutes and this happened. Every time it used to cut out on me it would happen after at least 10 mins of driving. This seems to me like its an ICM problem, but why the 16, 32, and 34 codes?
I'll order a new ICM from rockauto cause its 50% cheaper than whats here locally and give that a shot. Preventative maintenance even if its not the culprit, everything else is new..
