Basic rebuild.. How much $$?
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Ocala, Fl
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Several years ago I did a stock rebuild on my block. I had it hot tanked, honed (even though block had 100K on it the bores were still good), new rings/bearings (shop installed cam bearings) and reconditioned the crank, rods (ARP rod bolts) and pistons. Friend and I did the assembly work. I think after everything was said and done it was just under a thousand dollars.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Ocala, Fl
Several years ago I did a stock rebuild on my block. I had it hot tanked, honed (even though block had 100K on it the bores were still good), new rings/bearings (shop installed cam bearings) and reconditioned the crank, rods (ARP rod bolts) and pistons. Friend and I did the assembly work. I think after everything was said and done it was just under a thousand dollars.
It was just the bottom end so it really didn't make any difference. I mean it did have a GM847 with LPE heads/cam and dynoed 399.9 hp and 360something rwtq at 6000rpm before it took a nose dive because of valve float. Never fixed it. Just moved onto the current engine I have now with the same heads and much larger springs. 
You aren't going to really gain HP with a basic rebuild reusing stock crank/rods/pistons, maybe a little from decking the block(compression) or whatever but not a meaningful amount of HP to be gained from just refreshing. What you could gain would be the confidence to use a cam that is happy turning to 7000rpm and that could gain you some HP.
Some guys turn 7000rpm on untouched stock shortblocks without issue, some spin bearings, some guys are fine with the risk, some are not.
People get all worked up over "having" to rebuild engines to get any performance and IMO that is outdated thinking from back when carbs(washdown) and thick heavy rings conspired to destroy bores by 100K miles. That is no longer the case, you pull apart a 200K LT1 and you will find crosshatch, not saying the bore will be perfect but it wont be "bad".
Some guys turn 7000rpm on untouched stock shortblocks without issue, some spin bearings, some guys are fine with the risk, some are not.
People get all worked up over "having" to rebuild engines to get any performance and IMO that is outdated thinking from back when carbs(washdown) and thick heavy rings conspired to destroy bores by 100K miles. That is no longer the case, you pull apart a 200K LT1 and you will find crosshatch, not saying the bore will be perfect but it wont be "bad".
My 136k mile stock short block was out of spec. I ended up boring it .030 over with arp bolts, polished crank, stock rods, new bearings throughout. Not including the pistons it was $600 (my price, I knew the owner) anyone else $800.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
FYI it it ain't broke leave it alone. A cheap rebuild with cheap parts will be worse off in a few miles then what you have now.
On the other hand a quality rebuild with say mid level price parts and good machine work can be worth 25+ hp.
Spend the money with a good machinest. use good two eye brow pistons and cut the deck so you have between .008-.015 piston to deck. Then get head gaskets the give you a .040-.045 piston to head clearance.
there is power ito be gained or lost in the short block. Going super cheap is a good way to loose it
On the other hand a quality rebuild with say mid level price parts and good machine work can be worth 25+ hp.
Spend the money with a good machinest. use good two eye brow pistons and cut the deck so you have between .008-.015 piston to deck. Then get head gaskets the give you a .040-.045 piston to head clearance.
there is power ito be gained or lost in the short block. Going super cheap is a good way to loose it
When I said no real power to be gained in a rebuild I was commenting more on reusing all the rotating parts. You start getting into good lighter pistons, more compression and such some power can be found. On the flip side you use some 30yo part number cheap piston that weighs 20%plus more than stock with rings twice as thick as stock and then let whatever hack is cheapest in your town do the machining you can easily endup with LESS power than what the stock shortblock would have done.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
90% of the time that means new cheap *** pistons and a crappy ring pack...IE Lost power. Cheap machine work many times means crappy clearances IE Lost power.
Decking the block is part of a good rebuild so you might as well have a target to pick up power...Then again Cheap pistons with short pin hieght and no deck with a stupid thick cheap head gasket eaquals even more lost power.
Letting some old school guy talking you into 9.0 and not 11 to one is again lost power.
So yes I listed what should be basic stuff and a few power tip's that have been proven over and over and do not cost lot more money over a cheap *** POS short block.
96 I was not trying to shoot any thing you said down in any way.
We have made over 440RWHP on a basic rebuild with a good machinest and good $400 pistons with heads and cam
Decking the block is part of a good rebuild so you might as well have a target to pick up power...Then again Cheap pistons with short pin hieght and no deck with a stupid thick cheap head gasket eaquals even more lost power.
Letting some old school guy talking you into 9.0 and not 11 to one is again lost power.
So yes I listed what should be basic stuff and a few power tip's that have been proven over and over and do not cost lot more money over a cheap *** POS short block.
96 I was not trying to shoot any thing you said down in any way.
We have made over 440RWHP on a basic rebuild with a good machinest and good $400 pistons with heads and cam
Rings, bearings, oil pump, and lifters were the only new parts used besides a cam. Machine shop was $500 hard parts with gaskets and fluids was another $500. Installed it for $600. That's what I charged a kid from here and got screwed over by him. But you live and learn and it's the last time I offer my services so cheap.
If you're doing it all yourself and you can reuse all the internals it can be done for under $1000 easily.
If you're doing it all yourself and you can reuse all the internals it can be done for under $1000 easily.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 182
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From: Ocala, Fl
Rings, bearings, oil pump, and lifters were the only new parts used besides a cam. Machine shop was $500 hard parts with gaskets and fluids was another $500. Installed it for $600. That's what I charged a kid from here and got screwed over by him. But you live and learn and it's the last time I offer my services so cheap.
If you're doing it all yourself and you can reuse all the internals it can be done for under $1000 easily.
If you're doing it all yourself and you can reuse all the internals it can be done for under $1000 easily.
