94 z28 A4

I was wondering about how much it would be to do just a basic rebuild to get everything back up to stock specs.. Plus with some basic bolt on's..

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

More than you can afford pal, LT1.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Speed, if i could put emoticons on from the mobile it would be a rofl

94 z28 A4

I see you're from Ocala... How much do you have in your setup? I don't need a rebuild I was just asking about how much it would be incase I wanted to later on.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

Are you going to do the work yourself or have it done? BTW I wouldn't recommend any of the machine shops in Ocala...

jkeaton

I'd like to get a ballpark estimate for a basic rebuild as well.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I just posted a thread in this section called basic rebuild and showed prices for parts i found, its also $80 to resize rods for arp bolts

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Several years ago I did a stock rebuild on my block. I had it hot tanked, honed (even though block had 100K on it the bores were still good), new rings/bearings (shop installed cam bearings) and reconditioned the crank, rods (ARP rod bolts) and pistons. Friend and I did the assembly work. I think after everything was said and done it was just under a thousand dollars.

94 z28 A4

That sound about right... Did you dyno the car after it was done?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It was just the bottom end so it really didn't make any difference. I mean it did have a GM847 with LPE heads/cam and dynoed 399.9 hp and 360something rwtq at 6000rpm before it took a nose dive because of valve float. Never fixed it. Just moved onto the current engine I have now with the same heads and much larger springs.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You aren't going to really gain HP with a basic rebuild reusing stock crank/rods/pistons, maybe a little from decking the block(compression) or whatever but not a meaningful amount of HP to be gained from just refreshing. What you could gain would be the confidence to use a cam that is happy turning to 7000rpm and that could gain you some HP.

Some guys turn 7000rpm on untouched stock shortblocks without issue, some spin bearings, some guys are fine with the risk, some are not.

People get all worked up over "having" to rebuild engines to get any performance and IMO that is outdated thinking from back when carbs(washdown) and thick heavy rings conspired to destroy bores by 100K miles. That is no longer the case, you pull apart a 200K LT1 and you will find crosshatch, not saying the bore will be perfect but it wont be "bad".

mcalus

iTrader: (14)

My 136k mile stock short block was out of spec. I ended up boring it .030 over with arp bolts, polished crank, stock rods, new bearings throughout. Not including the pistons it was $600 (my price, I knew the owner) anyone else $800.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

FYI it it ain't broke leave it alone. A cheap rebuild with cheap parts will be worse off in a few miles then what you have now.

On the other hand a quality rebuild with say mid level price parts and good machine work can be worth 25+ hp.

Spend the money with a good machinest. use good two eye brow pistons and cut the deck so you have between .008-.015 piston to deck. Then get head gaskets the give you a .040-.045 piston to head clearance.

there is power ito be gained or lost in the short block. Going super cheap is a good way to loose it

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

When I said no real power to be gained in a rebuild I was commenting more on reusing all the rotating parts. You start getting into good lighter pistons, more compression and such some power can be found. On the flip side you use some 30yo part number cheap piston that weighs 20%plus more than stock with rings twice as thick as stock and then let whatever hack is cheapest in your town do the machining you can easily endup with LESS power than what the stock shortblock would have done.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

When I read "basic rebuild" I assume that means reusing as much of the original parts as possible.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

90% of the time that means new cheap *** pistons and a crappy ring pack...IE Lost power. Cheap machine work many times means crappy clearances IE Lost power.

Decking the block is part of a good rebuild so you might as well have a target to pick up power...Then again Cheap pistons with short pin hieght and no deck with a stupid thick cheap head gasket eaquals even more lost power.

Letting some old school guy talking you into 9.0 and not 11 to one is again lost power.



So yes I listed what should be basic stuff and a few power tip's that have been proven over and over and do not cost lot more money over a cheap *** POS short block.

96 I was not trying to shoot any thing you said down in any way.

We have made over 440RWHP on a basic rebuild with a good machinest and good $400 pistons with heads and cam

duh

iTrader: (16)

Rings, bearings, oil pump, and lifters were the only new parts used besides a cam. Machine shop was $500 hard parts with gaskets and fluids was another $500. Installed it for $600. That's what I charged a kid from here and got screwed over by him. But you live and learn and it's the last time I offer my services so cheap.

If you're doing it all yourself and you can reuse all the internals it can be done for under $1000 easily.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

If you want to be cheap and crappy you can do it your self for $200. No need for lifters or an oil pump

94 z28 A4

Thanks for all the replies and comments.. When I do a rebuild I'm not wanting to use the cheapest parts possible.. I'm talking about good quality parts.. My last z28 had an Lt4 hotcam.. I loved the way that motor performed.. Sounded amazing. I'm not meaning go as cheap as possible or so much power that its not street legal.. I guess what I'm meaning is something similar to like an lt4 conversion or getting like a mild cam, better pistons, rocker arms and stuff.