LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 Overheating, can't find problem?!

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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:17 AM
  #41  
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If I were you do a full top end build. Or now is the time to do a full build. Lol. Pull the block have new plugs put in get it flushed and do all your gaskets. That way you know about everything. That's if you can afford it. Playing with used stuff isn't fun.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Domn8r88
If I were you do a full top end build. Or now is the time to do a full build. Lol. Pull the block have new plugs put in get it flushed and do all your gaskets. That way you know about everything. That's if you can afford it. Playing with used stuff isn't fun.
Well I wish I could, but being laid off dosen't help. Once I get some money rolling I might either do a 5.3 LSx swap or a forged 355 build. For now I'm just worried about keeping the car on the road so I can get a job and have transportation to and from it.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
How does that bleed air pockets?
Pressurizes the cooling system and pushes bubbles and air pockets to the bleeder
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by czechnuts
I had a freeze plug goes year's ago. The crack was small enough to were it would boil off before hitting the ground. So leaks were hard to find. Plus just because you have new hoses, doesn't mean the restriction cant be more internal. Have you done a coolant pressure test?
Yes, I have done a pressure test. Pressure stays steady at around 14 psi
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Domn8r88
So you only replaced one head gasket? To me that's a big no no. If you do head gaskets always do both. Sure you can get away with it but in most cases if one is bad they both are. That and you never now if someone else before you didn't put a stock one back in or put a perf in.
That's what I was thinking. My dad was helping me do it being as the car was in his garage, and he told me not to touch the other head and that I would get away with only doing one. I wanted to do both, but as you could imagine I didn't win that settlement..
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:25 PM
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i had an lt1 that had a clogged cooling crossover line at the back of the heads....it overheated.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Chevyman5436
Pressurizes the cooling system and pushes bubbles and air pockets to the bleeder
You would be far better off letting the cooling system pressurize on its own and bleeding it.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by z28foru
i had an lt1 that had a clogged cooling crossover line at the back of the heads....it overheated.
Hmmm..... Never thought of the crossover pipe clogging. I think you're onto something. I've have to try that out. But reguardless, the car still uses coolant and is spitting out blue smoke out the rear.
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Old Jul 31, 2023 | 04:24 PM
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Default Overheating can't find problem

Originally Posted by Chevyman5436
Okay, my 95 Formula has been overheating and I can't find the problem. I'll drive it for 15-20 minutes after letting it idle for 5-8 minutes on the driveway. It'll creep up to 210 and then all hell breaks loose and it rockets to 240-250 and the coolant boils away and I shut it off. I've been fiddling with it for the last month and I'm pissed off I flushed the radiator, flushed the block 5 times, tested the thermostat (works) manually wired the radiator fans so I turn them on with a switch, took the front plate off the water pump and it turns when the engine fires up, no coolant leaks anywhere, the rear steam pipe is on correctly on both heads, replaced my main two coolant hoses even. WHAT THE ****! I let it idle on the driveway with the fans going and it slowly creeps up to 240. I raised the front nose all the way up and bled any air bubbles that might be trapped and pumped out all air pockets and tested the pressure and it all holds pressure. ***I feel the engine and it feels very hot, but I touch the radiator and hoses and they are ICE COLD*** why is that? Water pump works fine.
. I think I know what your problem might be start your car run it up to operating temperature your car will slowly climb and degrees while it's running go inside the air dam and spray the condenser with a water hose the temperature should dramatically drop shut the vehicle off if you can spray with a water hose the radiator from the inside of the engine that should help drop the temperature there is trash between your condenser and your radiator if this works that mean you have to take the shroud off and clean the crap in between the condenser and the radiator this work for me 👍👍👍
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