LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Intake block off

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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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Default Intake block off

Got my intake back from the machine shop and asked to have egr blocked off. I got it back with just one block off plate. Machine shop said it didnt need the other one blocked off. Is this true?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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The one that is blocked off is for the EGR valve. The other one is for the EGR tube that goes down to the manifold.

They both should be blocked off if deleting the EGR.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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ok. Thats what I thought. I'll head to Lowes tomorrow and get a piece of sheet metal. On another note, what RTV is everyone using on the front and back of the intake "china wall"?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 11:15 PM
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Red RTV will work just fine.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by F0x Slaughter
They both should be blocked off if deleting the EGR.
Not true. The EGR block off plate is all that is needed. Blocking off the tube port on the manifold is redundant since the passageway to the tube is plumbed through the EGR port that is blocked off. On the EGR side you will notice there are two ports. One is for the gasses from the EGR tube, which go through the port, into the EGR valve and back into the manifold. The shop is right in that only the EGR block off plate is needed.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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^^^ thats what the shop said. The port that is open is fed from the part that is blocked off. Are we all in agreement on the red sealant? Thanks again FOx and SS
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:29 AM
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Honestly I'd just use a regular EGR gasket if the block off plate is true enough. No reason to put sealant where it really isn't needed IMO.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:49 AM
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Im talking about on the intake china wall front and back of the intake.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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Yeah you're talking about the part where the manifold sits on the block correct?
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lt1_2buku
Im talking about on the intake china wall front and back of the intake.
I've always had good luck with Ultra Black. Just make sure the sealant cures overnight (maybe longer since it's winter) before starting.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:38 AM
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yes, both correct on the location. Thanks again for the help fellas. Much appreciated.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 07:00 PM
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Its info came directly from a Permatex rep. He said to NOT us the Red, Blue or Clear sealants because they were "old school" and not designed to hold up to todays conditions. He said ONLY use the Ultra products like grey or black. The grey was designed to mate aluminum (color) and the black everything else. Grey had a slightly higher temp rating but they were basically the same except color. I asked the obvious question, "why sell it if its junk?" He said because when they stopped making it they lost 2 million a year to the chinese who still make the cheap junk. People are set in their ways and are going to use what they have always used. Sorry to ramble...
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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I used THE RIGHT STUFF sealant made bye permatex this is the stuff the factory uses on crate engines .never leaked a drop ,make sure your clean the area real well with brake cleaner first.i prefer 3m brand brake cleaner but just about any will work .When sitting the intake in place make sure to sit it in place dont slide it around to get it in place.good luck
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:51 AM
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The Ultra series sealants are also sensor safe.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:37 PM
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Thanks guys. I had some ultra blk so I just used that.
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