tunerpro rt readings. pls help!!!!
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From: honey brook,pa
Hmmm I wonder Y u can't see it. It uploaded it on YouTube then posted it here. The video should not be private I tried it a couple time and works for me.
Last edited by teal94z281989; Mar 2, 2013 at 10:46 AM.
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I'll try to get the ball rolling. FYI -- It's easier to analyze if you export a datalog to an excel spreadsheet. Also, take a longer log.
Why have you decided to run permanently in open loop?
Few problems I see:
Why have you decided to run permanently in open loop?
Few problems I see:
1) You're getting knock retard at idle. Knock retard should always read 0. This may or may not be related to item #2:
2) Toward the beginning of your video, the O2mV are split -- driver's bank is showing excessively lean, passenger bank is showing excessively rich. Neither seem to be oscillating as they should, so I would assume they are both pretty well pegged into the rich/lean side of their switch-points. However, the left O2 jumped into the 900mV range toward the end of the video. Is the car misfiring at all? It appears that the knock retard went to 0 when the left O2 jumped to 900mV, but I need a longer log to verify. Perhaps a misfire getting picked up by the knock sensor, which would also explain the low O2mV. That's my best guess at this point, anyway.
Narrowband O2 sensors are only accurate within a narrow window around 14.7:1 AFR, so it's difficult to judge the severity of any fueling problem without more information. I'd be able to tell you more if you were running in closed loop, or if you had a wideband.
3) IAC counts are getting a bit low -- I'd probably close your throttle blades a little bit (via the throttle stop screw near the throttle linkage) in order to bring the counts back up. Most n/a guys aim for IAC counts of around 40 at idle. The idea here is that you want to maintain a cushion so that the IAC doesn't bottom out at 0 or max out at 160 (thus losing stability of the control system). Closing the blades will also direct more air through the IAC passages, which can help equalize the idle air distribution between cylinders.
Think that's a good starting point. We'll see what others have to say. 2) Toward the beginning of your video, the O2mV are split -- driver's bank is showing excessively lean, passenger bank is showing excessively rich. Neither seem to be oscillating as they should, so I would assume they are both pretty well pegged into the rich/lean side of their switch-points. However, the left O2 jumped into the 900mV range toward the end of the video. Is the car misfiring at all? It appears that the knock retard went to 0 when the left O2 jumped to 900mV, but I need a longer log to verify. Perhaps a misfire getting picked up by the knock sensor, which would also explain the low O2mV. That's my best guess at this point, anyway.
Narrowband O2 sensors are only accurate within a narrow window around 14.7:1 AFR, so it's difficult to judge the severity of any fueling problem without more information. I'd be able to tell you more if you were running in closed loop, or if you had a wideband.
3) IAC counts are getting a bit low -- I'd probably close your throttle blades a little bit (via the throttle stop screw near the throttle linkage) in order to bring the counts back up. Most n/a guys aim for IAC counts of around 40 at idle. The idea here is that you want to maintain a cushion so that the IAC doesn't bottom out at 0 or max out at 160 (thus losing stability of the control system). Closing the blades will also direct more air through the IAC passages, which can help equalize the idle air distribution between cylinders.
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Thread Starter
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From: honey brook,pa
I have a longer video I will post. I do not want to run in open loop it is just staying there for some reason an I need it to be in closed. Also I do have a back fire when I drive the car and I get like 8mpg. I believe the O2 sensors are the ones that came with the car which has almost 160K so I'm gonna change them both out next weekend. Also how do I export the data log to a sprees sheet
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I have a longer video I will post. I do not want to run in open loop it is just staying there for some reason an I need it to be in closed. Also I do have a back fire when I drive the car and I get like 8mpg. I believe the O2 sensors are the ones that came with the car which has almost 160K so I'm gonna change them both out next weekend. Also how do I export the data log to a sprees sheet
I've never used Tunerpro -- no clue how to export in that program. You can export using Freescan (which is free) or Datamaster (20 free trial logs).
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From: honey brook,pa
no one has messed with tune. as for trouble codes idk how to pull codes. alls i did was put the engine back together and now its running really rich but idles great and misses a lil when driving also uses tons of gas. I think its my o2s that are just done. Also have a lil chatter from rockers on the passengers side i have to tighten up
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The noise created by loose rockers / roller rockers can also be picked up by the knock sensor as false knock. I'd definitely get those readjusted, and then see if the knock retard goes away.
Freescan or Datamaster can display diagnostic trouble codes. Download one and try it out. My guess at this point is that you have some codes forcing the vehicle into open-loop mode. Get those straightened out, and you should get back into closed-loop.
If you suspect the oxygen sensors are at fault, go ahead and replace them. Cheapest I've found them is on Amazon -- search for AFS75.
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Ah, now we're possibly getting somewhere.
DTC 18 is an injector circuit failure. That might explain the intermittent lean driver's bank. Do you have a voltmeter with which to test the injector circuit?
If so, ohm out the injectors (all should read 12~15Ω), and test that all injector connectors are being fed +12VDC. The PCM decides when to ground out the injectors, but you can test continuity between the injector and the PCM at least. I can look up the PCM pinouts for you if you wish.
You can use noid lights to inspect injector operation. Another quick test you could do is use an IR thermometer to measure the header primaries. The cold one is a dead cylinder.
[Edit] To be clear, I would probably start testing the driver's side first -- I suspect the problem is on that bank, according to your logs. If you locate a loose connector or something, then reset the PCM (pull the PCM fuse or disconnect the negative battery cable for a while), and run the car again to see if the code recurs.
DTC 18 is an injector circuit failure. That might explain the intermittent lean driver's bank. Do you have a voltmeter with which to test the injector circuit?
If so, ohm out the injectors (all should read 12~15Ω), and test that all injector connectors are being fed +12VDC. The PCM decides when to ground out the injectors, but you can test continuity between the injector and the PCM at least. I can look up the PCM pinouts for you if you wish.
You can use noid lights to inspect injector operation. Another quick test you could do is use an IR thermometer to measure the header primaries. The cold one is a dead cylinder.
[Edit] To be clear, I would probably start testing the driver's side first -- I suspect the problem is on that bank, according to your logs. If you locate a loose connector or something, then reset the PCM (pull the PCM fuse or disconnect the negative battery cable for a while), and run the car again to see if the code recurs.
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; Mar 3, 2013 at 01:09 PM.
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From: honey brook,pa
Ah, now we're possibly getting somewhere.
DTC 18 is an injector circuit failure. IThat might explain the intermittent lean driver's bank. Do you have a voltmeter with which to test the injector circuit?
If so, ohm out the injectors (all should read 12~15Ω), and test that all injector connectors are being fed +12VDC. The PCM decides when to ground out the injectors, but you can test continuity between the injector and the PCM at least. I can look up the PCM pinouts for you if you wish.
You can use noid lights to inspect injector operation. Another quick test you could do is use an IR thermometer to measure the header primaries. The cold one is a dead cylinder.
[Edit] To be clear, I would probably start testing the driver's side first -- I suspect the problem is on that bank, according to your logs. If you locate a loose connector or something, then reset the PCM (pull the PCM fuse or disconnect the negative battery cable for a while), and run the car again to see if the code recurs.
DTC 18 is an injector circuit failure. IThat might explain the intermittent lean driver's bank. Do you have a voltmeter with which to test the injector circuit?
If so, ohm out the injectors (all should read 12~15Ω), and test that all injector connectors are being fed +12VDC. The PCM decides when to ground out the injectors, but you can test continuity between the injector and the PCM at least. I can look up the PCM pinouts for you if you wish.
You can use noid lights to inspect injector operation. Another quick test you could do is use an IR thermometer to measure the header primaries. The cold one is a dead cylinder.
[Edit] To be clear, I would probably start testing the driver's side first -- I suspect the problem is on that bank, according to your logs. If you locate a loose connector or something, then reset the PCM (pull the PCM fuse or disconnect the negative battery cable for a while), and run the car again to see if the code recurs.
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The DTC 18 is likely what is forcing you to stay in open loop, if that's what you mean.
If you fix the injector circuit and resolve the code, that should hopefully get you back into closed loop.
Depends entirely on what you are testing.
Here's a fuel injector circuit diagram. Note that the PCM 'A' Connector is the one labeled Red:
(click for big)
If you fix the injector circuit and resolve the code, that should hopefully get you back into closed loop.
-To test the resistance of the injectors, the car can be completely off. Just disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors, and probe the two recessed blade terminals within the fuel injector. Be careful not to lose the metal retainer clips on the electrical connectors -- they merely push in with your thumb as you wiggle/pull the clip up and away from the injector.
-To test for +12 VDC at the injector, the ignition key would have to be in the 'on' position. Probe across the '+' terminal of the injector connector and a frame ground (such as the grounding stud on the passenger side inner fender well -- alligator clips help). Note that you cannot merely probe across the two terminals in the injector connector -- the ground wire is only intermittently grounded when the PCM decides to fire the injector.
-To test using noid lights, the car would be running.
-To test header primary temperatures using an IR thermometer, the car would again obviously be running.
There are many ways to test all of this -- you could also carefully supply power and ground to the injectors and see if they make an audible 'click' noise. -To test for +12 VDC at the injector, the ignition key would have to be in the 'on' position. Probe across the '+' terminal of the injector connector and a frame ground (such as the grounding stud on the passenger side inner fender well -- alligator clips help). Note that you cannot merely probe across the two terminals in the injector connector -- the ground wire is only intermittently grounded when the PCM decides to fire the injector.
-To test using noid lights, the car would be running.
-To test header primary temperatures using an IR thermometer, the car would again obviously be running.
Here's a fuel injector circuit diagram. Note that the PCM 'A' Connector is the one labeled Red:
(click for big)
