A4 deep pan
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
A4 deep pan what deep pan are you guys running? I need to invest in one.
also i will be getting a trans temp guage. do you just cut a hole and weld a bung onto the pan somewhere?
also i will be getting a trans temp guage. do you just cut a hole and weld a bung onto the pan somewhere?
I don't see a need for any of that stuff with your combo honestly but if you're set on it the B&M pans fit nice.
You can get a pan with a bung already welded in but if not it's not too hard to get a bung and weld away.
You can get a pan with a bung already welded in but if not it's not too hard to get a bung and weld away.
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
I have a big hayden trans cooler also.
after cruisin around for maybe 20-30 minutes if i do a wot pull headed outa town the 1-2 shift feels a little soft.
while after pullin off the highway or somethin of equivalent speed and gettin on it, it shifts fast and hard
that and i want things ready for nitrous. im going to get a brand x wet kit later this summer and start tinkering.
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
my 4l60 pan came from ebay it was actually a really nice aluminum finned piece....it was thick enough where I could just drill and tap it and thread the sensor right in the side
If your tranny is getting hot with that setup I would be looking for WHY???????? not trying to bandaid the issue.
Do you have a crappy tune keeping it out of lockup?
Is it some cheap stall that generates a lot of heat?
I have a "Tahoe" pan which is slightly deeper the in radiator cooler, a modestly sized plate style TruCool external and a spin-on filter and once the weather gets into the 40s I have a hard time keeping the tranny warm enough even after a couple hour drive to the track it can be 160f. I just use a scantool to see the tranny temp, Datamaster will display it. The only time I have seen it go over 195 was hotlapping at the dragstrip and 195 is perfectly safe.
If cruising at a low speed keeping it out of lockup I would raise the 3-4 shift or put deeper gears in it.
Do you have a crappy tune keeping it out of lockup?
Is it some cheap stall that generates a lot of heat?
I have a "Tahoe" pan which is slightly deeper the in radiator cooler, a modestly sized plate style TruCool external and a spin-on filter and once the weather gets into the 40s I have a hard time keeping the tranny warm enough even after a couple hour drive to the track it can be 160f. I just use a scantool to see the tranny temp, Datamaster will display it. The only time I have seen it go over 195 was hotlapping at the dragstrip and 195 is perfectly safe.
If cruising at a low speed keeping it out of lockup I would raise the 3-4 shift or put deeper gears in it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 461
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
If your tranny is getting hot with that setup I would be looking for WHY???????? not trying to bandaid the issue.
Do you have a crappy tune keeping it out of lockup?
Is it some cheap stall that generates a lot of heat?
I have a "Tahoe" pan which is slightly deeper the in radiator cooler, a modestly sized plate style TruCool external and a spin-on filter and once the weather gets into the 40s I have a hard time keeping the tranny warm enough even after a couple hour drive to the track it can be 160f. I just use a scantool to see the tranny temp, Datamaster will display it. The only time I have seen it go over 195 was hotlapping at the dragstrip and 195 is perfectly safe.
If cruising at a low speed keeping it out of lockup I would raise the 3-4 shift or put deeper gears in it.
Do you have a crappy tune keeping it out of lockup?
Is it some cheap stall that generates a lot of heat?
I have a "Tahoe" pan which is slightly deeper the in radiator cooler, a modestly sized plate style TruCool external and a spin-on filter and once the weather gets into the 40s I have a hard time keeping the tranny warm enough even after a couple hour drive to the track it can be 160f. I just use a scantool to see the tranny temp, Datamaster will display it. The only time I have seen it go over 195 was hotlapping at the dragstrip and 195 is perfectly safe.
If cruising at a low speed keeping it out of lockup I would raise the 3-4 shift or put deeper gears in it.
maybe i just need to mess with the trans tuning a little more.
edit: its a Yank SS 3600
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
the trans cooler is right infront of the radiator. i need to build a bracket for it to hold it at a better angle tho.
tunerpro rt doesnt show it.. i dont think. i'll have to double check. datamaster has a trial right?
The Derale 14204 pan has cooling tubes through it, a magnetic drain plug and a temp sensor port. It's the only pan the actually cools. The finned aluminum pans hold the heat with very little cooling effect.
I have the Derale pan on all my vehicles.
If you've added an auxiliary cooler, make sure it's the stacked plate type, not the tube type. Tube type coolers do almost nothing compared to the plate coolers.
I have the Derale pan on all my vehicles.
If you've added an auxiliary cooler, make sure it's the stacked plate type, not the tube type. Tube type coolers do almost nothing compared to the plate coolers.
Last edited by Paul Bell; Mar 30, 2013 at 10:22 AM.
I had a deep (x-tra 2 qt.) pan on my Z-28 for a couple of weeks, back when I had the Eibach Pro-Kit springs in it. I had to take the pan off, too little ground clearance, put the OE pan back on....
The only problem I've ever had with any aftermarket pan is the gasket sealing.
I solved it by using a Tuff-Cork gasket from Victor Reinz, their part number W39365TC for the 4L60E/R700.
It has a steel core and will not squeeze out. No more drips!
I solved it by using a Tuff-Cork gasket from Victor Reinz, their part number W39365TC for the 4L60E/R700.
It has a steel core and will not squeeze out. No more drips!
Last edited by Paul Bell; Mar 30, 2013 at 10:23 AM.