myltwon

iTrader: (1)

A maxed out powershot flows around a 175 shot, I ran this on a stock tune. Not the best thing to do, but I did it without incident and the pistons looked fine many 1,000s of miles afterwards and countless bottles. Had to change my plugs every 2-3 months though. Pretty much as soon as I started to get spark blowout, I would decide it was time lol.

All that was changed in the tune was the injector constant values btw so not exactly a "stock" tune, but definately not any semblance of a real one.

Definately true on the Zex box basically doing nothing and the fact that n2o is addicting. I swore I'd only run a 75 shot, then it became a 100 shot, then a 125, then a 150, and then the 180 jet came. It's really hard to justify not adding more horsepower when it's a $5 jet away and you're fearless for no good reason.

englundjd

i asked Nitro dave about a dry system and this is what he told me: "With the LT1 I would not suggest this system. The LT1 computer system will not respond to spraying before the mass air meter like the LS1 does.
I would suggest the wet single nozzle system.
You would need part number 22-81000, Brand X LTX EFI Single Nozzle System (45psi) (50-100-150 HP) Retail-499.99"

that price doesnt include the bottle. it comes with a wide open throttle switch, but you should get a window switch to.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Yup LT1 MAF does not compensate like the LS1 MAF, on the NOS dry kits it has a nitrous pressure regulator IIRC, which features an inline jet that connects a vacuum hose to the fpr. Since the FPR regulates fuel based on manifold pressure, it manipulates it to create a larger fuel demand than n/a.

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Swap to a br7s and gap round .035. I ran 150 shot on stock bottem end with no problems. Ran 11.2s with just boltons

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

I also would not suggest a dry kit on a LTx....I don't like drastically increasing fuel pressure to supply the extra fuel.

I also would not suggest running a STOCK lt1 fuel pump. The age of the pump alone would make me want to replace it

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Did a 180 shot with TR6s on a stock bottom end gapped at .030-.035, its been a while so I forget the exact gap I ran. BTW haven't had n2o for a few years now.

My friend currently does the same on his 160-170k stock bottom end mild h/c car.

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

Are there really people in here saying you could/should do this un-tuned or am I blind......???

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Never said anyone should if you're referring to me, just stated I got away with it on a bolt on car with a 180 shot. I was responding to a direct quote not the OP's question. I stated that even if he wasn't planning on running n2o he is a h/c 355 and should be tuned regardless of whether he's planning on spraying or not.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

so ill just get a wet shot...

the pump was replaced with a factory one with checking fuel pressure which is 38 does that play any part?

what fuel pressure do i need

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

Nitrous basics:
1) verify engine is in good running condition...compression test at a min
2) Upgrade the fuel pump...no ifs ands or buts from my perspective
3) Change Spark plugs...BR6ef at a min for a stock engine....internal engine mods and BR7ef would be the starting point
4) RETARD THE TIMING...no ifs and or buts

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

the OE pump is only good for mid 400whp...with a good 355 you are prob near that mark now...adding nitrous will put a lot of demand on the OE pump....a 255lph or higher pump with dedicated power supply is in you best interest.


also remember pumps don't supply pressure they supply volume the regulator is what gives you rail pressure...the information you need is can the pump supply enough volume to maintain pressure at WOT with the nitrous activated and maintain steady rail pressure...if you cant supply enough volume pressure will drop and you will lean the entire fuel system out due to fuel starvation

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

okay i got tr6 pugs at .042 gapped now so ill have to switch

okay with the compression test what is that psi that the gauge should be reading on each cylinder

i got one that doesnt screw into the plug hole is that okay?

or get a screw in one??

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

all those are what i thought woulda had of been checked and done but some ppl think they always know everything and tell u different

so is just a 255 with a hot wire kit good

F0x Slaughter

Yes a 255 with a hotwire is good to like 650hp.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

so ill be good with that part of it

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

^ what he said

I run a 255 w/hot wire on my 396, used it up to a 200 shot before switching to my current dedicated fuel system

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

you just want to make sure all cylinders are pretty even...do a normal and wet test and compare the difference...if the numbers on the wet test go way up then you know the rings aren't sealing well anymore. oil in the combustion chamber is a recipe for disaster

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Wel running tr6s with nos is like having sex with a girl with a std.
You may not catch it but why risk it in the 1st place lol. Run nonprojected tip plugs while sprayin lol. Better safe than sorry.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Well like I said this was many years ago when I did it. Internet logic dictated, and many knowledgable people for the matter, that the TR6 was the shiznit for n2o on LT and LS cars lol. I haven't hit the bottle in a number of years maybe 6-8 now that I think of it.

Wasn't trying to post it as the best possible route, just a personal experience for the fun of conversation.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Bolt ons drag radials and 150 shot tr5 plugs gapped at .040 6speed w/3.42s I was running 11.33-11.39 MPH ranged from 117-119 thanks to
NX wet kit shark nozzle