best nitrous for lt1s
All that was changed in the tune was the injector constant values btw so not exactly a "stock" tune, but definately not any semblance of a real one.
Definately true on the Zex box basically doing nothing and the fact that n2o is addicting. I swore I'd only run a 75 shot, then it became a 100 shot, then a 125, then a 150, and then the 180 jet came. It's really hard to justify not adding more horsepower when it's a $5 jet away and you're fearless for no good reason.
Last edited by myltwon; Apr 1, 2013 at 09:04 PM.
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From: Hastings, Nebraska
okay guys got a built lt1
as follows
230/242 .510 113 ls
Je nitrous pistons
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers w/7/16" studs
Comp Cams 987 Dual Valve Springs
SI Silverline Series Valves,(2.00" intake and 1.97 Exhaust)
Eagle H beem connecting rods
Crane Hardened Push Rods
with stock crank
i kno it will handle more than i wana hit it with
but i really dont wana go over 125 hp shot
which kit is the best wet or dry??????????????????????????????
and it seems like the zex is the simiplest is that true whats ur thoughts guys and what else would i need?
the main thing is it dry or wet thats best
as follows
230/242 .510 113 ls
Je nitrous pistons
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers w/7/16" studs
Comp Cams 987 Dual Valve Springs
SI Silverline Series Valves,(2.00" intake and 1.97 Exhaust)
Eagle H beem connecting rods
Crane Hardened Push Rods
with stock crank
i kno it will handle more than i wana hit it with
but i really dont wana go over 125 hp shot
which kit is the best wet or dry??????????????????????????????
and it seems like the zex is the simiplest is that true whats ur thoughts guys and what else would i need?
the main thing is it dry or wet thats best
I would suggest the wet single nozzle system.
You would need part number 22-81000, Brand X LTX EFI Single Nozzle System (45psi) (50-100-150 HP) Retail-499.99"
that price doesnt include the bottle. it comes with a wide open throttle switch, but you should get a window switch to.
i asked Nitro dave about a dry system and this is what he told me: "With the LT1 I would not suggest this system. The LT1 computer system will not respond to spraying before the mass air meter like the LS1 does.
I would suggest the wet single nozzle system.
You would need part number 22-81000, Brand X LTX EFI Single Nozzle System (45psi) (50-100-150 HP) Retail-499.99"
that price doesnt include the bottle. it comes with a wide open throttle switch, but you should get a window switch to.
I would suggest the wet single nozzle system.
You would need part number 22-81000, Brand X LTX EFI Single Nozzle System (45psi) (50-100-150 HP) Retail-499.99"
that price doesnt include the bottle. it comes with a wide open throttle switch, but you should get a window switch to.
I also would not suggest a dry kit on a LTx....I don't like drastically increasing fuel pressure to supply the extra fuel.
I also would not suggest running a STOCK lt1 fuel pump. The age of the pump alone would make me want to replace it
I also would not suggest running a STOCK lt1 fuel pump. The age of the pump alone would make me want to replace it
My friend currently does the same on his 160-170k stock bottom end mild h/c car.
Never said anyone should if you're referring to me, just stated I got away with it on a bolt on car with a 180 shot. I was responding to a direct quote not the OP's question. I stated that even if he wasn't planning on running n2o he is a h/c 355 and should be tuned regardless of whether he's planning on spraying or not.
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so ill just get a wet shot...
the pump was replaced with a factory one with checking fuel pressure which is 38 does that play any part?
what fuel pressure do i need
the pump was replaced with a factory one with checking fuel pressure which is 38 does that play any part?
what fuel pressure do i need
Nitrous basics:
1) verify engine is in good running condition...compression test at a min
2) Upgrade the fuel pump...no ifs ands or buts from my perspective
3) Change Spark plugs...BR6ef at a min for a stock engine....internal engine mods and BR7ef would be the starting point
4) RETARD THE TIMING...no ifs and or buts
1) verify engine is in good running condition...compression test at a min
2) Upgrade the fuel pump...no ifs ands or buts from my perspective
3) Change Spark plugs...BR6ef at a min for a stock engine....internal engine mods and BR7ef would be the starting point
4) RETARD THE TIMING...no ifs and or buts
the OE pump is only good for mid 400whp...with a good 355 you are prob near that mark now...adding nitrous will put a lot of demand on the OE pump....a 255lph or higher pump with dedicated power supply is in you best interest.
also remember pumps don't supply pressure they supply volume the regulator is what gives you rail pressure...the information you need is can the pump supply enough volume to maintain pressure at WOT with the nitrous activated and maintain steady rail pressure...if you cant supply enough volume pressure will drop and you will lean the entire fuel system out due to fuel starvation
also remember pumps don't supply pressure they supply volume the regulator is what gives you rail pressure...the information you need is can the pump supply enough volume to maintain pressure at WOT with the nitrous activated and maintain steady rail pressure...if you cant supply enough volume pressure will drop and you will lean the entire fuel system out due to fuel starvation
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okay i got tr6 pugs at .042 gapped now so ill have to switch
okay with the compression test what is that psi that the gauge should be reading on each cylinder
i got one that doesnt screw into the plug hole is that okay?
or get a screw in one??
okay with the compression test what is that psi that the gauge should be reading on each cylinder
i got one that doesnt screw into the plug hole is that okay?
or get a screw in one??
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Nitrous basics:
1) verify engine is in good running condition...compression test at a min
2) Upgrade the fuel pump...no ifs ands or buts from my perspective
3) Change Spark plugs...BR6ef at a min for a stock engine....internal engine mods and BR7ef would be the starting point
4) RETARD THE TIMING...no ifs and or buts
1) verify engine is in good running condition...compression test at a min
2) Upgrade the fuel pump...no ifs ands or buts from my perspective
3) Change Spark plugs...BR6ef at a min for a stock engine....internal engine mods and BR7ef would be the starting point
4) RETARD THE TIMING...no ifs and or buts
all those are what i thought woulda had of been checked and done but some ppl think they always know everything and tell u different
so is just a 255 with a hot wire kit good
you just want to make sure all cylinders are pretty even...do a normal and wet test and compare the difference...if the numbers on the wet test go way up then you know the rings aren't sealing well anymore. oil in the combustion chamber is a recipe for disaster
You may not catch it but why risk it in the 1st place lol. Run nonprojected tip plugs while sprayin lol. Better safe than sorry.
Wasn't trying to post it as the best possible route, just a personal experience for the fun of conversation.
