Input On Increasing My Dyno Numbers
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Input On Increasing My Dyno Numbers Hey guys,
I wanted to post my numbers and have a discussion about what I could do next.
Car is an 1997 camaro z28 A4 with 75k miles.
Stock with catback: 245/270.2
Headers (LT's), 3in offroad y-pipe dumped: 270/293.5
Added a full aftermarket CAI, I wouldn't know how much that would add but everything I read says that the stock intake would of been killing my dyno numbers. I am doing 373's in the rear with a full refresh of the rear end at the same time. Are my numbers low/average/above average etc? It seems to me that my camaro reacts very well to mods gaining 25 rwhp and 23.3 rwtq off of LT's. Any possible way to get my automatic upwards to that 300 rwhp mark with bolt ones? Suggestions on what to add?
Devin
I wanted to post my numbers and have a discussion about what I could do next.
Car is an 1997 camaro z28 A4 with 75k miles.
Stock with catback: 245/270.2
Headers (LT's), 3in offroad y-pipe dumped: 270/293.5
Added a full aftermarket CAI, I wouldn't know how much that would add but everything I read says that the stock intake would of been killing my dyno numbers. I am doing 373's in the rear with a full refresh of the rear end at the same time. Are my numbers low/average/above average etc? It seems to me that my camaro reacts very well to mods gaining 25 rwhp and 23.3 rwtq off of LT's. Any possible way to get my automatic upwards to that 300 rwhp mark with bolt ones? Suggestions on what to add?
Devin
3.73s should actually cause you to see a few less ponies on the Dyno. as was stated above springs and rockers can get you close. a cut out would add a few. A cam will definately get you there. Nitrous is always an option too. 
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Dam I must not have a very powerful LT1 then, I seen posts with autos with full bolt on's putting down 290's/310, m6's with bolt on's putting down 315-330's/340.
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I know numbers don't mean everything I just want to hit that 300 peak without doing internals or a cam. I'm curious what roller rockers, new springs, ewp would net me? Would that be close to 290 rwhp - already have long tubes, CAI, y-pipe.
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1.6RR will gain you like 10-15 at the wheels.
EWP isn't really that big of a gain on LT1s as the cam drives the waterpump, still nets some maybe 5.
Is it tuned?
Figured 270 + 20 gives you 290.
CAI has been proven to pick up ~10 at the wheels.
Or for a bigger gain switch a lid setup.
EWP isn't really that big of a gain on LT1s as the cam drives the waterpump, still nets some maybe 5.
Is it tuned?
Figured 270 + 20 gives you 290.
CAI has been proven to pick up ~10 at the wheels.
Or for a bigger gain switch a lid setup.
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1.6RR will gain you like 10-15 at the wheels.
EWP isn't really that big of a gain on LT1s as the cam drives the waterpump, still nets some maybe 5.
Is it tuned?
Figured 270 + 20 gives you 290.
CAI has been proven to pick up ~10 at the wheels.
Or for a bigger gain switch a lid setup.
EWP isn't really that big of a gain on LT1s as the cam drives the waterpump, still nets some maybe 5.
Is it tuned?
Figured 270 + 20 gives you 290.
CAI has been proven to pick up ~10 at the wheels.
Or for a bigger gain switch a lid setup.
What valve springs do you recommend?
Brand of EWP?
Tuned - yes but somehow my battery died while tuning and killed my PCM then he the tuner bought a used 96 SS m6 PCM and input all my data to make the PCM work for my car. I might be able to gain some more through tuning, I'd be happy for 290/xxx. I know I'm getting 373's installed within two weeks and then a stall is a strong possibility soon (sometime this summer), I'm open to spraying it. Heard the LT1's love a 75 shot or so, anyone sell a complete kit and everything?
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LT1s love 150 shots 
All the way to a great tune with a 200 shot.
EWP: CSR or Meziere
RRs: Comp Pro Magnums (have to trim valve cover supports to fit them, not a big deal)
Springs: PAC 1218s will work or Comp 918s.
All the way to a great tune with a 200 shot.
EWP: CSR or Meziere
RRs: Comp Pro Magnums (have to trim valve cover supports to fit them, not a big deal)
Springs: PAC 1218s will work or Comp 918s.
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You think a stock LT1 block will hold up consistently on a 150 shot? I'll add these things to my list. Should I get an EWP fuse light so that it doesn't overheat the motor if it breaks. Don't know if you heard about this or not. Any opinions on where to get a 150 shot kit complete?
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You can put in a light on the EWP to watch for failure. Or just watch your gauge it starts to go up you know shes failed.
LT1s will hold a 150 all day. As I said guys have shot 200 with a good tune. Just have to put timing.
I haven't installed mine yet but it was 900 to my door for everything. 10lbs bottle 150 jets, blanket all the bells and whistles.
LT1s will hold a 150 all day. As I said guys have shot 200 with a good tune. Just have to put timing.
I haven't installed mine yet but it was 900 to my door for everything. 10lbs bottle 150 jets, blanket all the bells and whistles.
EWPs on LT1s are worth quite a bit. 6-10whp. Might not seem like alot but for $150 its decent HP/$. They also come with some secondary benefits like being able to use a double-row timing set, running the pump with the car off, etc.
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Also didn't know they would net gains as high as that.
Cause its often debated.
So say
1.6RR 15rwhp
EWP 10rwhp
CAI 10rwhp
Thats 35rwhp so 270 plus 35 gives you 305. (High end of the guesstimates)
EDIT: also forgot you should make sure you have an adequate stall and gears but I see you already have the gears. Both of these are bolt-on must's regardless of whether you want a cam or not.
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Tune it, or trade for a manual lol intake dosent gain you anything really. So little it's a freebie for autocross. Mine put down 272whp 305wtrq stock. Not sure what it would be now but not to much better.
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Honestly if you're going through the cost and hassle of rr's and springs, a cam swap is basically some gaskets, fluids, and a cam away, basically about $350-400 unless you get a good deal on a used one. The only thing left would be a tune but you should be looking at one regardless if you're looking to squeeze out the full potential of your setup.
EDIT: also forgot you should make sure you have an adequate stall and gears but I see you already have the gears. Both of these are bolt-on must's regardless of whether you want a cam or not.
EDIT: also forgot you should make sure you have an adequate stall and gears but I see you already have the gears. Both of these are bolt-on must's regardless of whether you want a cam or not.
300 for rockers.
Might as well change the lifters while in there, another 100.
Might as well change the push rods while in there, another 100.
Need to change the springs figure another 200.
If using NSA rockets thats guide plates for another 50.
Should change the timing set while in there, another 100.
Plus gaskets.
---------------------------------
A cam swap is around 1000 bucks.
